Jump to content
Note to New Members ×

Titanal snowboard


Lifeform

Recommended Posts

Solid black base is best base.

Here's a bit of a crazy thought: What do people think about the idea of titanal or similar damping construction for an all-terrain steeps/moguls oriented board? Extra chatter reduction sounds great, and some extra shock absorption would help with riding over bumps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 minutes ago, Cthulhufish said:

Solid black base is best base.

Here's a bit of a crazy thought: What do people think about the idea of titanal or similar damping construction for an all-terrain steeps/moguls oriented board? Extra chatter reduction sounds great, and some extra shock absorption would help with riding over bumps.

Coiler makes their all-mountain model with titanal and it works great. Mine is built with a little extra nose and 16 mm of taper. The taper lets you release the tail easier but it still carves great when you want it to. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, Cthulhufish said:

Solid black base is best base.

Here's a bit of a crazy thought: What do people think about the idea of titanal or similar damping construction for an all-terrain steeps/moguls oriented board? Extra chatter reduction sounds great, and some extra shock absorption would help with riding over bumps.

Winterstick Daydreamer w Ti in process, to desired flex and width.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1/4/2024 at 1:47 AM, Jack M said:

31 is up there.  You are up against the maximum width of available materials, unfortunately.  Shorter radius = wider nose/tail.  I like the sound of the 165cm, 9.5-11m.  Ride higher angles!  :eplus2:

@Jack M

@dhamann

This is what Sean replied :

"You're asking questions about Dimensions that have subtle differences. It's very difficult for me to advise they have never watched Ride On what they should get."

I thought I would have the opportunity to try a Donek Incline 175 next week but not... that sucks ! I will have to make a decision without.

 

Below, the sidecut radius dimensions (from 9.5-11m to more) to get up to 31cm waist width (with 165cm / 164cm / 163cm / 162cm) :

Flux 165cm :

9.5-11m, 30.2cm

9.7-11.2m, 30.3cm

9.9-11.4m, 30.4cm

10.1-11.6m, 30.5cm

10.3-11.8m, 30.6cm

10.5-12m, 30.7cm

10.7-12.2m, 30.8cm

10.9-12.4m, 30.9cm

11.2-12.7m, 31cm

 

Flux 164cm :

9.5-11m, 30.3cm

9.7-11.2m, 30.4cm

9.9-11.4m, 30.5cm

10.1-11.6m, 30.6cm

10.3-11.8m, 30.7cm

10.5-12m, 30.8cm

10.8-12.3m, 30.9cm

11-12.5m, 31cm

 

Flux 163cm :

9.5-11m, 30.3cm

9.6-11.1m, 30.4cm

9.8-11.3m, 30.5cm

10-11.5m, 30.6cm

10.2-11.7m, 30.7cm

10.4-11.9m, 30.8cm

10.6-12.1m, 30.9cm

10.8-12.3m, 31cm

 

Flux 162cm :

9.5-11m, 30.4cm

9.6-11.1m, 30.5cm

9.8-11.3m, 30.6cm

10-11.5m, 30.7cm

10.2-11.7m, 30.8cm

10.5-12m, 30.9cm

10.7-12.2m, 31cm

 

Subtle differences, but :

* at what point does the sidecut radius become too large for the board to maintain agility ?

* how small can the board be reduced so that it remains very stable at high speeds ?

What could you suggest me, keeping in mind that I am 190cm tall and weigh almost 100kg ?

 

Edited by Ster
Link to comment
Share on other sites

With your boot size and taking into account, what I read about your riding style, I would really recommend you to try out a directional stance with a bit steeper binding angles to prevent boot-outs.

That way you're more flexible with your boards waist width and you have less limitations with the sidecut radius available accordingly.

Try that directional stance out on your current board for a start and give it some time to adapt and see if it's for you. If not you can still go the way with an ultra wide board and its inherited manufacturing limitations.

Regarding the sidecut radius differences; they seam very marginal to me. The flex/stiffness of the board is at least as important, if not more on how narrow or wide your turns will be.
For the board length and your riding, I would go for longer boards which are more forgiving on higher speeds. On the other hand you lose manoeuvrability and flexibility.

You have to find your sweet spot yourself and choose on base of what you liked/disliked on you previous boards. It's very hard to give you an advice, without knowing you and how you ride.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So what you are running into there is the max width of the tip and tail Sean can provide. The bigger the waist at a given length the longer the minimum sidecut as shorter sidecuts mean a wider tip and tail.  Similarly longer length forces a longer sidecut, given the overall width limit. 
 

As far as which way to go, I can’t tell you. I’ve found I like around 10 m. I have a board with 12-14 m vsr and I like it for wide groomers but it’s not as versatile as my shorter ones. OTOH lots of guys who are really laying it over like long sidecuts, some are using up to 20 m. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'll add another vote for trying out a double positive, high binding angle stance on your current board and going from there. Probably a good idea to leave your front foot alone and just bring your back foot to a positive stance, get used to that, then start moving to high angles. This YouTube has some good information that may be helpful:

If you're able to get used to a double positive stance, you won't need as wide of a board as badly. I have the roughly the same foot size as you and am a similar build and I've never booted out with my 29.7cm waist Flux, likely because my stance is +36/+30.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@nextcarve

I already tried forward stance, but I really prefer duck stance (around -9 / +24).

I am 43 years old, 190cm 100kg, I am not a freestyler, even if I sometimes like to play with the border of the pistes.

I love high speed runs, with carved turns. I want to improve my carving to extreme carving.

A typical day is about 50km of downhill, max speed 90km/h.

When it is possible (conditions ok), I love powder. But this is rare...

I like to make little jumps on the piste during the ride (slope break or little bumps).

Icy conditions, with steep pistes, I like to hard engage and play with the limits.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@staples156

Nice video ! With lots of advices !

I will try to change my angles... try 0 / 21 and see...

26 minutes ago, Neil Gendzwill said:

If you are looking to do extreme carving, ultimately duck stance will limit you.

@Neil Gendzwill

Yes. I will try one more time if double positive could work for me...

Edited by Ster
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, staples156 said:

I have the roughly the same foot size as you and am a similar build and I've never booted out with my 29.7cm waist Flux, likely because my stance is +36/+30.

@staples156

What are the spec of your Flux ? (length, radius, reference stance)

How tall are you ? And weight ?

Did you take the standard flex ?

And what about secret construction ? 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Specs are in my profile, I don't know my stance width off hand.

194cm, about 95kg

I didn't alter the flex, so it's whatever Sean thought it should be based on my input.

No idea, I was too cheap to consider the secret construction at the time.

 

When you try the 0° back foot angle, bring tools with you and don't be afraid to adjust it throughout the day. If 0° feels ok, in a few runs you could probably try +6° or something pretty easily.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@Ster welcome to custom board design! only more and more questions arise. at some point, you gotta pull the trigger. this is why multiple boards are almost necessary, especially talking about somewhat minor differences. it's easy to get hung up on these things, but consider the big picture of your goal. this is why certain boards are base lined with a certain specs via the professional board makers. this doesn't mean it's going to work for you, so define your needs. going middle of the road for everything isn't always the cure either. truth is, there is no one board for everything. sorry. as @nextcarve points out, i'll go as far as saying that flex is a major factor regardless of the established base line. what type of riding are you looking to do 80% of the time vs 20%? are you only going out to extreme carve? high speed gs carves only? are you looking to link as many "c" shaped carves as possible? define these differences for yourself and lean towards one way or the other. skills, strength, technique and athletic ability will need to take care of the rest. binding/boot choice too. thank goodness there aren't any custom boot companies out there! oops. i say just ride and set up the board how you wish, knowing the limits they present and/or affects on the body. balance it for you. if duck works, then run it but testing can be fun. just don't cry wolf if your knees hurt though. the board will now be white top, white base. shipped by April 1.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you're willing to give directional stance another change, it's a good plan (as @staples156 mentioned) to play around with the angles until you're comfortable. As a start you can even try it out in the dry. In any case, you should be able to move your knees and hips freely, so your joints can move the way they are designed, without stress or pain. Take into account, that with double positive binding angles, your stance will be narrower than with duck-stance and even narrower with higher angles, because you don't spread your legs that much.

Edited by nextcarve
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, nextcarve said:

 Take into account, that with double positive binding angles, your stance will be narrower than with duck-stance and even narrower with higher angles, because you don't spread your legs that much.

Thanks ! Lot's of things to think about !!!

I use to ride with a 63cm duck stance. Have you an idea of the corresponding value if I go with a double positive stance ? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 minutes ago, Ster said:

Thanks ! Lot's of things to think about !!!

I use to ride with a 63cm duck stance. Have you an idea of the corresponding value if I go with a double positive stance ? 

The linked video is about the geometry of stances. It will explain what they mean about a narrower stance, as well as a whole lot of other stuff.

It should help you find comfort and function, no matter what angles and stance distance on the board you finally choose.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1/4/2024 at 12:24 AM, dhamann said:

Imo, go secret or full titanal.

@dhamann

The standard construction of the Flux is damper than other boards (Incline) with rubber reenforcements. You think the secret construction addon would bring even more and is a good choice ?

On 1/4/2024 at 1:47 AM, Jack M said:

I like the sound of the 165cm, 9.5-11m.

@Jack M

You wouldn't go with a larger sr ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Ster said:

@dhamann

I think :

75% high speed gs carves

15% trying extreme carve and "c" shaped carves

5% powder

5% play with border of pistes

Hi Ster,

Is this a dream program or a realistic program ?
I live in France and your program looks a bit optimistic, unless if you live in the mountains and have the chance to go snowboarding only in deserted resorts with hero snow. 

Edited by pegtal
Link to comment
Share on other sites

26 minutes ago, pegtal said:

Hi Ster,

Is this a dream program or a realistic program ?
I live in France and your program looks a bit optimistic, unless if you live in the mountains and have the chance to go snowboarding only in deserted resorts with hero snow. 

Hi @pegtal

I try to ride during the weeks there is the less people.

I ride essentially on big domains, with larges pistes.

A typical day is 60km of downhill. Lot's of high speed runs.

Screenshot_20240106_004119_Ski Tracker.jpg

Edited by Ster
Link to comment
Share on other sites

@Ster those %age numbers of focus for your riding aspirations should be shared with Sean, if not already. they know their stuff and trust you're being led in the right direction. Sean and/or consultants should be helping you here with these things you bring to the forum. this community is great and can be helpful, but the business is with the board maker. maybe this is the American northeast in me? the customer must help the board maker understand their needs. that is all.

the extreme carve and "c" shaped turns are two different boards IMO. again, welcome to custom board design. wax that credit card. this is something that needs to be clarified within yourself and with your board maker to decide upon what to have made to meet your needs. i think that @pegtal has some great realistic insight for getting a board made that is not only going to look good on paper, but ride like you want it to. realizing a focus for the build must be made. the %age numbers shared call for two boards so keep Seans contact info handy for the next one. gotta start somewhere. trust your decision and trust in your board maker. take the forum chat with a grain of salt. same with app calcs. you got to feel the ride and fahghet 'bout tha rest.

dampness... if working with Donek, the secret or full titanal construction will be a better option than just added rubber from my research and the direction i've been lead working with custom board makers. time to get something built to decide for yourself with the help of the village. the turns will be great, one way or another. no promises.

 

Edited by dhamann
technology...
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...