ShortcutToMoncton Posted January 6 Report Share Posted January 6 What a unicorn: “Need high speed 60+kmh GS piste carves. With soft boots and low angle duck stance. Also, extreme carving and tail-hook freecarving. Must float well in powder and offer playful pop for side hits.” Ef it, might as well also throw in oral sex. Let’s see just how much magic Sean has in his bag…!!! 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SunSurfer Posted January 6 Report Share Posted January 6 Soft boot extreme carving with positive binding angles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Gendzwill Posted January 7 Report Share Posted January 7 3 hours ago, SunSurfer said: Soft boot extreme carving with positive binding angles. I really don’t care for that video. A bunch of slow motion shots of a single carve. I want to see the full speed footage of a bunch of those turns linked together. With the amount of drag that guy is showing I would be surprised to see him link more than 2. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SunSurfer Posted January 7 Report Share Posted January 7 Part 1 of a 4 part soft boot extreme carve instruction series, with English captions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xargo Posted January 7 Report Share Posted January 7 (edited) Not sure if this is the kind of riding you refer to when you mention duck EC (not sure if duck EC is even a thing ) @Ster but this is with -21/+21, 58cm wide duck stance, 300mm waist 16m sidecut board and mondo 27 boot size. I'm close to bootout with this setup and with some bindings that have a thicker heel loop, I do bootout with this. I'm sorry but with your boot size and your preferred duck angles, you will bootout if you try this: Also when it comes to board materials and construction, the titanal sheet is 31cm wide (at least the ones Coiler uses) so even with this board the titanal doesn't reach the edges of the board near tip and tail. So going wider than my board with titanal means having to do some tricks with the edge reinforcement or forget titanal. Like others, I would suggest steeper positive angles if you are planning to do high edge angle carving. In my opinion it's easier to learn positive angles with a hardboot setup and then transition those skills to softboot riding. That's what I did. Rode softboot duck stance for around 20 years, then two years of harbooting to learn new techniques and now this season I'm on my dream softboot duck setup. The board you are specifying sounds great but just don't expect to be able to go for those high edge angle carves duck since it's just not wide enough. It will still make a stellar carving tool for softboot posi angles. @crackaddict is the man to watch for regarding that style. Edited January 7 by Xargo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shred Gruumer Posted January 7 Report Share Posted January 7 I'm all about using modern materials, plane were once made of wood and paper and cloth. Finally got out on my Yonex yesterday, No wood.. sweet feel.. a bit heavy but if your about staying on the earth and not flying.. you won't notice the weight..it actually may help. Really smooth! https://www.yonex.com/snowboarding/boards/tc23sf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShortcutToMoncton Posted January 9 Report Share Posted January 9 Interesting, I ran into a Japanese softboot carving group myself yesterday, and they had a Yonex as well as some Gray hammerhead boards. They were asking me questions about the wide Coiler, so we did some switching for a few runs. I’d never ridden a Yonex before. It seemed pretty nice for two runs. Those boards are so narrow for softboot carving, though. I’d say somewhere around 250-255 or so. They’re running angles in the 40s by necessity to avoid bootout. I continue not to understand why anyone would carve groomers in 40+ degree softies — all that effort just to approximate a hardboot setup. I don’t know what the Yonex boards cost, but it’s a head-scratcher to me that anyone would ship a Gray from Japan at something close to 3x the price they can just pick up a Coiler from Bruce down the road. I don’t know. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhamann Posted January 9 Report Share Posted January 9 uhm, supply and demand. awareness. exclusiveness or lack thereof. roots. there's probably a reason the ticker numbers on disc plates stop getting printed at 27 or 30 degrees. do the burton disc plates still stop here without grinding down teeth on the plate? it's in the design and what is "most" efficient per that binder. could also just be what's always been done; racer mentality if you will. retooling manufacturing to accommodate. same goes for that Japan crew running their angles. i run 36 at front and tried 39. i feel i've reached the max, but also it's what works best for me; even with aftermarket liners, etc.. nothing wrong with pushing the limits. different strokes... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack M Posted January 9 Report Share Posted January 9 If you have to loosen your softboots at lunch, you may as well be riding hardboots. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShortcutToMoncton Posted January 9 Report Share Posted January 9 It just feels like that’s the design for the Japanese/Korean carving boards I’m seeing. They are designed for softboot carving use, and they are made ~25-26cm wide. Ergo, you have to run high stance angles to carve them or else you boot out. It’s not even like they’re giving you a choice of 27-28cm waist widths. Anyway, whatever, not my bag or my money, and the more the merrier from my perspective. It was fun to try the Yonex and have one guy on our lift look down and ask me about tennis racquets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shred Gruumer Posted January 9 Report Share Posted January 9 18 hours ago, ShortcutToMoncton said: I’d never ridden a Yonex before. It seemed pretty nice I picked one up...and I love it..heavy so you stay on the earth. Lol. Yonex Symarc Mg. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fluxgame Posted January 9 Report Share Posted January 9 5 hours ago, ShortcutToMoncton said: They are designed for softboot carving use, and they are made ~25-26cm wide. Ergo, you have to run high stance angles to carve them or else you boot out. It’s not even like they’re giving you a choice of 27-28cm waist widths. Pretty sure the average shoe size in Japan and Korea is a good bit smaller than in the US and Canada. Just catering to their local market? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShortcutToMoncton Posted January 9 Report Share Posted January 9 I honestly don’t think that’s it. I’m US 8-8.5 (~MP 26) which is likely just to the smaller size of the middle of the adult man Bell curve for North America, and I need 30+ degree angles to carve a 255mm waist without getting a lot of bootout. They just seem to prefer using high softboot stance angles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leeho730 Posted January 11 Report Share Posted January 11 On 1/6/2024 at 10:29 PM, ShortcutToMoncton said: What a unicorn: “Need high speed 60+kmh GS piste carves. With soft boots and low angle duck stance. Also, extreme carving and tail-hook freecarving. Must float well in powder and offer playful pop for side hits.” Ef it, might as well also throw in oral sex. Let’s see just how much magic Sean has in his bag…!!! Virus Terminator Zylon/UFC: high speed 60+kmh GS piste carves - check extreme carving freecarving - check for UFC tail-hook freecarving - check for Terminator float well in powder - check bulldoze through moguls - check playful pop for side hits - check for Terminator titanal - check for UFC But no soft boots or low carving duck stance.… 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inkaholic Posted January 15 Report Share Posted January 15 Looks like Yonex snowboards are now available in the U.S. https://www.yonex.com/us/snowboard Ink Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ster Posted January 25 Report Share Posted January 25 Regarding variable sidecut radius, is it better to have a big difference or a small one ? 10m-12m (2m) or 10m-11m (only 1m) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack M Posted January 25 Report Share Posted January 25 10 hours ago, Ster said: Regarding variable sidecut radius, is it better to have a big difference or a small one ? 10m-12m (2m) or 10m-11m (only 1m) It depends. If the radii are blended or part of a more complex curve, you can have an even bigger difference. However I've had boards where the two or three radii were just butted together end to end and that's not as good. The "sweet spot" of the board gets smaller and if you're not right on it the different segments of the board do not cooperate. It also depends on how you want the board to perform. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dredman Posted January 25 Report Share Posted January 25 The bigger the last radius is the faster you will potentially accelerate out of a turn. Racers love this. Their boards often have quite large radius differences tip to tail. For most recreational free carvers I would not suggest a progressive sidecut, unless you are a super aggressive rider. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ster Posted January 25 Report Share Posted January 25 @Jack M@dredman I am about to finalize my order (donek flux ~168cm). The Flux without customization comes with 8.5-10m SR. I would like a bigger SR for high speed carved turns. I am wonderring if I should go with 10.5-12m SR to keep the 1.5m standard difference between max/min or if it would be better to reduce this difference to 1m (10.5-11.5m or 11-12m). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dredman Posted January 25 Report Share Posted January 25 @Ster how steep of terrain will you be riding? What level of riding are you at? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ster Posted January 25 Report Share Posted January 25 20 minutes ago, dredman said: @Ster how steep of terrain will you be riding? What level of riding are you at? I ride in the Alps (France). It could be very steep ! I have a good level, 20 years of snowboarding, aggressive ride, speed and carve... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dredman Posted January 25 Report Share Posted January 25 @Ster based on what you are saying I would go 11-12, especially with that length. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ster Posted January 25 Report Share Posted January 25 37 minutes ago, dredman said: @Ster based on what you are saying I would go 11-12, especially with that length. Thanks ! You think that length sounds good or should I go a little more ? (169 / 170) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cthulhufish Posted January 26 Report Share Posted January 26 Caveat: I'm still getting used to my Flux. I've only had it for a week, and it's my first (soft boot) true carving board. I typically ride 152-154 all mountain and free ride boards. I went with a 152 Flux w/ 8.5-10m sidecut. I'd say the length feels right to me - for a dedicated carving board. I've taken it through moguls and it rides waaay too big for that to be any fun. It has an enormous effective edge for its length. It's my first variable sidecut board, and the 1.5m difference feels subtle to me. It's there when I deliberately lean back, but unobtrusive. I haven't worked up to carving steep groomers on it yet, but 8.5-10m feels like it would be way too tight for that. As for the core, I've never ridden a titanal board so I can't give a comparison there, but it's a lovely smooth ride compared to off the shelf boards. Kinda wishing all my boards had cores like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dredman Posted January 26 Report Share Posted January 26 @Ster if you are wanting a damp riding board ( easy on the legs and absorbs irregularities in snow conditions). From what you have told us about your riding, I would recommend getting the Donek Flux w/Secret construction 169 and the 11-12.5scr would be my advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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