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crackaddict last won the day on January 23

crackaddict had the most liked content!

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About crackaddict

  • Rank
    Master Booter


  • Location
    Revelstoke, BC
  • Home Mountain/Resort?
    Revelstoke Mountain Resort
  • Occupation?
  • Current Boards in your Quiver
    Thirst: 9SW 195, 8RW 185; Exegi: Double Wide 168; Coiler: T4 187 Prototype, T4 NFC 181 and 178, 2x T3 NFC TT+ 178, Mega-Classic 186, VSR AM 171; Donek: Sabre SRT 165; Furberg Freeride 168, Freeride Split 162; NeverSummer: Ripsaw 164, 25 Split 162...
  • Current Boots Used?
    UPZ RC10 w/ fintec
    Head Stratus Pro w/fintec
    Dynafit Neo px (for Phantom Splitboard Bindings)
    Ride Insano
    Burton Driver X
  • Current bindings and set-up?
    TD3 Step in, 3 deg rear, 3 deg front, 55/60 deg stance angles, 20" wide
    Drake Podium and Ride El Hefe 18 and 30 degrees, 21" wide, Phantom Splitboard Bindings
  • Snowboarding since
  • Hardbooting since

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  1. ...So how do we access the google drive? The link is gone.
  2. 12 in the back, 27 in the front is pretty minimal for soft boot carving. If you're dragging your boots, go to steeper angles, get lifts under the bindings and/or buy a wider board.
  3. Hey @Jack, I'll tell you what I tell the curious kids on the gondola: "It's not about the speed, it's about the turn!". @GeoffV, I'll tell you what I tell the ladies: "It's not too big, it'll work just fine". Seriously, I'm not trying to compensate for anything, I just want more g-force. @snowwjob1: Ahem... It's 5620 vertical feet... @lonbordin: I'll see what I can do. @dredman: almost any decent board would have been a blast in Sundance Bowl on Thursday! But yeah, the bigger the better if you have the legs. @Mr.E gets it. Don't forget that the longer a board is, the longer the sidecut radius needs to be to keep the sidecut depth somewhat consistent across the different sizes. This radius on a 175 would be ridiculous but it's right in the ballpark for a 194. Remember also that the difference in sidecut depth between 20m and 22m is a whole lot less than the difference between 10m and 12m. This raises a discussion topic for another thread: "Be it resolved that sidecut depth is a better predictor of turn size than sidecut radius." Debate amongst yourselves. All doubts will be settled by 9am tomorrow...
  4. My oh my... Look what was waiting for me upon my return from Montucky! 194cm big T4 Contra 18-25m scr 210mm waist I hope it fits in the gondola tomorrow!
  5. @Allee and @Corey, Are we doing this? You guys want to hit Revelstoke on your way down south? I've got lots of room here and heaps of snow. Anyone else? @Riceball? @Neil Gendzwill? Depending on Conditions I may head to Schweitzer for the pre-party. James
  6. Well Rob... That's a lot of questions... In the words of the great Bruce Varsava, "you don't really notice the width once you get going". I found that to be true with the VSR AM 171 with its 24cm waist (but you sure as hell notice the extra smoothness when you go back to a 19cm waist). Is soft boot carving hard on the ankles? Yes. Is it more physical than hardboot carving? Yes. Does a wider board make it harder on the ankles and the body? I can't say. I can't carve a 26 waisted board as fast or tight as a wider one, or on the steeps either, so sure it's less intense. There's going to be a tradeoff with extra width for sure, but if you're booting out and yet you want to carve harder, what other choice do you have? Lifting, canting and extreme angles? Now you might as well be riding hard boots... These boards were designed as dedicated soft boot carvers, not all mountain rides. I don't believe in "all mountain". It seems to me that in general, equipment that is supposed to do everything well doesn't really do anything very well. Hence the massive quiver. Missing in the quiver had always been something worth riding in ten centimetres on groom. That's why I bought the wide boards. Why not just ride the VSR AM on those days? Fair question... It started at Grand Targhee circa winter 05/06... I was the only carver at the hill that year. There was a well established group of senior locals who had been skiing there forever, showing up at 11am and enjoying the smooth soft corduroy all day on the empty mountain. Now, some foreigner comes in and just destroys it all first thing every morning. I was not well liked. Then someone trips in one of my ruts and gets injured and all of a sudden there's mounting pressure to ban hard boots at the 'ghee. That's when I bought power plates and started to get into real soft boot carving. I wanted to show them that my ruts are the same depth in soft boots... Anyway, within a couple of seasons @dredman showed up with the crew (@johnasmo, @bigdogdave, and @tworavens) and smoothed things over. Everybody loves Dave. There was no more talk of banning hard boots after that. But still, I find people treat me as less of a freak in soft boots. I'm more approachable. People maybe get the idea that they can do it too, that it's not a different sport it's just great style. I wouldn't change much on a new Exegi. Maybe a slightly softer tail would make it less committing and slow things down a bit, but I've adapted and I love it. So glad to have that board this season, good corduroy has been so rare and I need to carve!
  7. Thanks Boys! Yes of course I discussed stiffness with Sean. In Aspen and then again a week later on the phone. I told him 185lb aggressive rider, I'm only 155lbs. I rode with both Sean and Carl just prior to ordering the boards. I'm working on a better edit. That one was done entirely by the videographer at his discretion. When I see a carving video with a bunch of toesides cut together I always assume that the rider can't do a decent heelside or link deep carved turns. I want to rework it soon with longer cuts and better music in an effort to capture the flow. Stay tuned.
  8. $90 plus shipping. I rode that exact board for a few seasons. I'm very curious to try it again (on a green run). Been saving my TD2 center disks for this board...
  9. I have a Furberg Freeride 162 split from last season, and a Freeride 168 from 16/17. Not a quiver killer. Not a carving board or a piste board at all. I would travel with only a Furberg if I was going heliboarding in Alaska maybe. It's the shit for steep lines and tight trees in fresh and chopped powder, but a bit boring in open bowls or mellow terrain where you might prefer something with some sidecut and pop. This is a board for big lines. Very stable and forgiving, easy to land and it turns tighter and easier than any other board I've ridden. (Which is why I had to have the split.) Awkward on groom or hardpack, it's a different kind of ride. Be careful on your first run. Never tried the all mountain.
  10. @1xsculler: a few points to consider. 1. It's too late. We're halfway through the season already, it's too late to start a strength training program. Especially if you plan to start doing eccentric and plyometric exercises that you've never tried before. If you were riding weekends only I might suggest a light workout on Wednesdays, but I think you ride more than that and high quality rest will probably do you more good than intense cross conditioning at this point. Just ride and rest; give your body a chance to recover and get stronger. In January, riding is the best training for riding. Light cardio and stretching are advised on rest days to speed recovery, but plan to start your strength training for next season in April. 2. Likely you have muscle imbalances in your legs. Muscle strength and particularly endurance are very position specific. If most of your quad strength comes from rowing, then you may have a lot of strength and endurance when pushing from a seated position but that's not going to transfer well to standing on a snowboard. Further, because rowing demands a very narrow range of motion parts of your thighs are likely overdeveloped while other parts are comparatively underdeveloped. This may be why you tire out so quickly; it's the weaker muscles that can't keep up. An over reliance on your larger muscles may also be influencing your technique. This kind of imbalance can also lead to injury when the smaller muscles are fatigued and get overpowered by the larger ones. I also suspect your knee stabilizers are weak, because you're (over) training sitting down. You'll need to train your legs this summer in a wider variety of positions (mostly standing), get off the cable machines and use free weights for your squats and lunges. Train your calves and adductors a bit too. 3. Core strength is at least as important as leg strength. If your core is weak, no amount of leg strength will support the body tension needed for carving. This is a very physically demanding sport. Getting low will help you cheat that a bit and carve with less core tension, but stretching it out feels so good! Mix in some isometrics when training your core and don't neglect the obliques. Your lower back is probably already strong from rowing, but maybe your abs are weaker (by comparison) and so also imbalanced and so also contributing to your fatigue and then to your poor technique as you try to rely on your stronger muscles to carve. Pullups, dips, leg raises,medicine ball situps... Look up preparation exercises for isometric gymnastic positions like levers and flags. Good luck. Don't quit.
  11. Here's some footage of me on the Exegi DoubleWide 168. Enough I think to get an idea of what's possible on this board. Burton Driver X boots, Drake Podium bindings (no customization on those), 12/27 degree stance. Blue and black terrain, soft bumpy snow and poor visibility storm riding, but these are the days this board was made for... Can your soft boot board do this? It's probably not wide enough. Try an Exegi.
  12. Have you got one of these in decent condition? I want to try this board with 4x4 inserts. Cash or trade.
  13. I reneged. This setup is for somebody else. Still available.
  14. To the best of my knowledge, Exegi and Donek are the only two snowboard manufacturers who can make a board with a 30cm plus waist. So, of course, I got one of each... I pretty much asked Sean and Carl for the same thing, but the boards they delivered are really quite different. I wanted something fun to ride on those in between days: too much fresh snow for an alpine board but not enough for a real powder board. We get a lot of those in Revelstoke. I told them both I wouldn't be riding ice or off piste, but I would be carving steep, challenging terrain on soft days with increasing chop, and that I wanted a fast board that I really had to push hard into to keep it turning tight. Exegi Double-Wide: 168cm long, 30cm waist, 14m scr, carbon/S-glass hybrid construction Donek Sabre SRT: 164cm long, 31cm waist, 12m scr, secret construction, p-tex topsheet The Donek came in way too soft. The thing is kind of like a noodle with very little torsional stiffness. When I read that the Sabre SRT was the winningest BX board in North America, I assumed that was the one for me, only wider. What Sean made me is more like an overpriced Knapton Twin: floppy, good for buttering and tail spins, fun on green runs but limited in its capacity to hold high speed turns on steeps. I figure that when you add width to a board you increase the leverage with which the rider applies force so it needs to be tortionally stiffer to compensate. Maybe Sean disagrees, maybe his primary wide board developer (Ryan Knapton) likes them soft, I don't know. I've had this board two seasons now, it's been fun and I've had some great runs on the Sabre SRT. I kind of figured that this was the limit for soft boot carving. The Exegi changed my perspective on that. It's been a very snowy month and I've ridden the Double-Wide more than any other board this season. About five days I brought them both up the gondi for some back-to-back testing. The results are clear; I'm now accepting offers on the Donek. I have to admit, the Double-Wide was somewhat intimidating at first. It's a lot of board and very stiff. It doesn't want to turn at slow speeds and you have to fully commit to finish a turn on steeps. It's not a board that you can just tip over and see what it does (what it does is accelerate!). My first few days riding it were last spring when only the upper mountain was open (challenging black diamond groomers in Revelstoke) and the fresh snow was never enough to bury all the death cookies. It was intense; I loved the experience but I wasn't sure I liked the board. Only in the past few weeks have the more mellow mid mountain blues been in condition and I've finally had a chance to properly feel out the Exegi, get comfortable and find its limits without risking my safety. Now it's my go-to board for soft carving days and I'm finally inspired to get out of bed early when there's 5-10cm fresh! It's a mitten killer. It's stable and fast, holds every turn. Very forgiving too, by which I mean that you don't need perfect form to keep it turning. I'm stretching out my toesides now like a surfer; I can feel the extension from the toes of my back foot right through my neck. On heelside my butt is dragging and I'm getting both hands down on the steeps. Very satisfying turns. In terms of direct comparison, the Exegi is the faster board and the better carver for sure. It's also somehow less fatiguing and it doesn't require me to over tighten my bindings or max out the forward lean. The Exegi is better in soft chop and funner off piste too with much better capabilities in trees and moguls, though neither board is really recommended for this purpose. The Donek is better for buttering tricks and carving 360s. I can come in slower and finish with a tail spin Dredman style on the Donek; the Exegi needs more speed and more space, and the tail isn't soft enough to get up on on so it's more of a flat spin exit or a straight ride out. (I'm working on a kind of spiral finish where I can dig in the tail on the toeside edge only and whip the nose around.) I don't do any other tricks or switch riding. Bottom line? The Exegi is recommended over the Donek for pure hard charging directional carving. It's better, cheaper, and probably more durable too. Presumably, Carl can make you a softer one with a more civilized radius. If you aim to ride like Ryan Knapton, switching, tricking and spinning all over the green runs, then Donek has your ride but probably buy the Knapton Twin because it's a lot cheaper than the Sabre SRT. If you're not carving hard enough to really need a super wide board, then you have many options from many manufacturers.
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