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Technick

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Technick last won the day on August 12 2023

Technick had the most liked content!

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  • Website URL
    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCC-66aDr58IP4nP5sFH1QNg

Details

  • Location
    Sainte-Julie, Quebec, CA
  • Home Mountain/Resort?
    Saint-Bruno, Bromont, Stoneham, Massif
  • Occupation?
    TV Tech.
  • Current Boards in your Quiver
    Coiler Contra BX 163 x 29,5 12m
    Coiler Contra 174 x 21 12m SCR
    Coiler ECVC 175 x 22 13/14m SCR
    Coiler ECVC 177 x 22.5 14/16m SCR
    Coiler Nirvana Energy 170 x 20.5 11m SCR
    Coiler VSR 170x21 12m SCR
    Coiler BXFR 168x26 11m SCR
  • Current Boots Used?
    Deeluxe T325 with Intec and BTS - SBC Wrap liners
    Ride Insano SB with Pro Tongue Liners
  • Current bindings and set-up?
    F2 Race Titanium Standard Bail Front and Step-In back on all boards.
    Flat, no cant or lift.
    Depending on board width: 47 to 50 degrees rear, +7 degree front...
    Burton Cartel Bindings on the Coiler BXFR
  • Snowboarding since
    1995
  • Hardbooting since
    2001

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  1. The "Toko Edge Tuner", standard or pro is a good value. I used it for a couple of years before grabbing a Swix Evo Pro on sale last year.
  2. @Corey I used Brush-On 60 and Econ 80. Never tried the PMC-770 (with 70A hardness). I got a smooth result with both but the PMC 770 might be better. The 60 is a bit soft and the 80 a bit hard. 70 could be the sweet spot. When I use it on my clothes, I fill it (mitts or jacket sleeve) with a towels so I dont get any unwanted creases. I tape the perimeter of the zone I want coated with gorila tape. Protect your work space and other clothing parts you dont want coated with news paper or something else. I use Kombi Mitts (around 35$) So it's pretty cheap to experiment with different types of coatings. I use extra coating thickness on the tip to better protect my fingers. I also poke a hole with a red hot nail near the wrist to tie a wrist strap.
  3. @Xargo Yes a 13m Pro2 will be easier than a 16m Contra on a norrow slope, and will also be easier to exit from the layed turn. I have a 13.5m ECVC, a 15m ECVC, a 12m Hardboot (the red one) and a 12m Contra (Sofboot) 29.5cm wide carver. I love them all but the 15m need a bit more slope width and speed. I think we all do this, we work hard on the heelside first, it's the most difficult and coolest. Improving your front will help you to link them smoothly.
  4. Finally, exiting the heelside going into the next frontside: Your position on the heelside exit doesn't help you for the following frontside. That weird position; hips to the side and too early rotation put you in a "not optimal position" for the frontside. By lifting your hips up in the layed heelside turn, you will keep a straiter body and this will carry on into the heelside exit and put you in a much better position to follow through. Patrice heelside exit: Down unweighting buy pulling on the board and flexing knees put you in a good position to start a frontside early, smooth and clean.
  5. Patrice heelside: Notice how his whole body move in one block, starting with some knee flexion, the his whole body lean into the turn, shoulders, hips and feet aligned, he pushes on the board in the first 1/3 of the turn to lock the edge and lean extended until fully layed. Personnaly I dont go as deep as that in the heelside, I'm not that good and I feel that it's dangerous for my shoulder.
  6. Begining of your heelside layed turn: Your are a bit late (it will help if you finish your frontside perpendicular to the fall line and use your knee to help your edge change). Your hips are too much on the side, try keeping your body strait when you lean in the turn, pushing your hips up as soon as your hand touch the snow. It will help stabilize the turn, prevent your hips or ass from bouncing on the snow. It will also reduce a little bit the angle of the board witch will also help stabilize the turn. Bring your left shoulder more to the front, it will rotate your chest more and reduce the angle of the shoulder of your right arm, it will be safer for your shoulder. Using mitts with some kind of rubber coating will help alot to slide better reduce drag impacts on your arm. I tried a couple of solution la Marine Shoo-Goo, Smooth-On "Econ 60" or "Econ 80" and Sikaflex Marine Adhesive.
  7. Edge change toe to heel: You have a bit to much upper body rotation to your right (too soon) and knee not flexed enough. Patrice edge change toe to heel, notice his hips and shoulder are aligned with his front foot. You can start your body rotation as soon as you lock your heel edge.
  8. The big advantage of using the full motion of your legs from really bent to almost fully strait (you always keep a little bit of flexion to absorb bumps) is that you can push early in the turn (carving the dowhill edge) locking your board in the carve in the first 1/3 of the turn, next 1/3 fully extended and gradually releasing the pressure in the last 1/3 before transitionning to the next turn. Next, transitioning from toeside to heelside: Try to keep your body rotation until you change edge to go into your heelside turn. Keep your left hand and shoulder over the tail of the board. This will help you finish your frontside with power and control and better set you up for a good heelside turn. How you finish the previous turn will impact the next one. Keeping the rotation on toeside:
  9. Front side with both hand on snow: Patrice when his left hand touches the snow:
  10. Here you are still on the heelside edge and allready reaching for the snow with your hands and upper body, no real change in knee flexion (no down unweighting). You should transition and change edge by pulling on the board with your feet witch will bring it close to you and then you change edge... Notice Patrice position when his right hand first touches the snow: The body rotation starts about here...
  11. Here we can see Patric Fivat at the end of a heelside carve, note his body position, hips knees and upper body. Facing foward, center of mass over heelside edge.
  12. First screenshot, ending a heelside carving going into a layed frontside. You can see that you are still on the heelside edge and your body position is a bit awkward, hips and shoulder rotating to soon into the next frontside. Get your hips more over your rear boot and keep facing the front of the board a bit longer, you can start your rotation later.
  13. I looked at your head mounted camera EC video in detail and took screenshots to spot places where you can improve. All my comments are from my experience with someone how got trained by the Swoard team but everyone as there own personnal style based on the fitness, flexibility experience etc... (to be continued)
  14. Yes EC is fun but hard to master. To me it was a chalenge, a way to push myself to learn something that I though look super cool and fluid (when done right). I spent many years riding pretty much alone with no real carving technique, I learn pretty much by myself but was limited with my speed control on steep slopes. I discovered this forum by pure luck and meet with local riders so I could ride with others, witch for the most part where alot better then me. In 2014 I met @redia on this site, he was a local rider that i've seen at my local hill once or twice and was really impressed with his technique by behind able to carve really smoothly on black runs, even when there where alot of bumps and small moguls (I could'nt do that). To make a long story short, we rode alot together and he tough me the EC technique (witch he learned in Switzerland with the Swoard guys). Now I'm pretty good at it and really enjoy it when the situation is right, early in the morning when the groomers are nice and there is no one close to me (except for "Redia"). I still use the push-pull and cross-under edge change when I need to without laying down a turn. I like to mix it up and use both styles, they are both usefull, fun and efficient when done right. Having someone knowledgeable with you that can give you tips and correct your technique is priceless, thank you Redia! I will look closely at your vids and try do give you some pointers... P.S. To me it looks pretty good for just 2 years of EC!
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