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3nm Torque Wrench Source


barryj

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I've ben using a 6nm preset torque wrench (6nm Park Tool see below) to tighten down my TD3's.   My tuner says the Bomber TD3's shouldn't be any tighter than 3nm.....to avoid binding suck and over torquing the inserts..

 

p.jpg

Anybody got a preset 3nm tool they recommend ??

Edited by barryj
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I have a little yellow T handle set preset at 4 nm that I use for an entirely different application: https://www.grainger.com/category/torque-screwdrivers/screwdrivers-and-nut-drivers/tools/ecatalog/N-19pn#nav=%2Fcategory%2Ftorque-screwdrivers%2Fscrewdrivers-and-nut-drivers%2Ftools%2Fecatalog%2FN-19pnZ1yzht1sZ1yzdrv0

Personally I would want a little more 'white knuckle' on my bindings.

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You really shouldn't need a torque wrench to tighten screws unless your on Roids . Having clean threads  on screws and inserts and using thread lubricant ( Bomber Butter ) once the store opens up again. Firmly tightning with a  t handle driver using one hand and not continuing to twist the driver until it springs back when you release it is probably sufficient. As long as this is done at room temperature you should be fine. More important is to simply be aware of changes if something doesn't quite feel right and inspect your binding after you have adjusted something. 

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Hey Lowrider...I wouldn't call it a torque wrench in the true sense of the term.....these tools are preset so to not let you pass a specific load.......  Bike mechanics use them all the time so as to not crush expensive carbon fiber parts.  

How tight is 3nm?  .........without a tool to measure it I have no clue.    I just can't find one for  3 nm

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oops... I havent seen a preset 3nm wrench. sorry.

 

Here is one that goes down to 4... but 3nm is really not very tight. 

http://www.jensonusa.com/Park-Tool-PTD-Preset-Torque-Driver-PTD-5-14-Drive-5NM?pt_source=googleads&pt_medium=cpc&pt_campaign=shopping_us&pt_keyword=&gclid=Cj0KCQiAv_HSBRCkARIsAGaSsrDFIpNh1okgVugMmUh5BxmjQq6ONMF0BWmJMxsgUKCK_SuUm3TQ26EaAu9iEALw_wcB

Here is the (bicycle) industry standard. Variable settings. Its pretty nice. But when I was a bicycle mechanic professionally, I recall reading an article about how even very expensive torque wrenches were as much as 2nm off at that low of torque, so really the difference between 3 and 4 (especially for something you are hoping will bear your weight) is not very much.

https://www.coloradocyclist.com/pro-adjustable-torque-wrench?gclid=Cj0KCQiAv_HSBRCkARIsAGaSsrAICDe4iQVx77yApeaG5tA3qbJESGIU3OuhiG5za3CJxIiTXAiE74IaAu6MEALw_wcB

 

Edited by rustisgold
didn't pay attention to the question.
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For reference: I haven't seen a torque wrench used by Bomber, Coiler, or Donek. This isn't a highly-optimised joint that's at 99% of proof load. Anywhere between snug and "stripping the inserts" is adequate. 

I aim for a little over screwdriver-tight. 

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19 hours ago, billyt. said:

I guess we can think of them as speed dimples, like on a golfball?

Gets on podium with lots of equations and colorful fluid dynamics plots to describe why this is not the case.

Looks at audience’s threatening stares.

Slowly backs away and exits stage left.

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The firearm industry uses low torque wrenches for scope installation, among other things. Here is an example that I neither use nor endorse:

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/wrenches/general-wrenches/magna-tip-adjustable-torque-wrench-prod84011.aspx

I sure if you use your goole feature you could find plenty of options.

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I think your tuner is trying to sell you Turn signal fluid. But I am an old school fool riding dinosaur equipment for the most part. 

I tighten the sh!t out of my screws and don't have any dimpling. And if I did I really don't care. I don't use that part of the board anyway. 

Recently one of the screws in my Fintech heel to boot attachment loosened a little bit. I actually broke the metal plate that the screw goes into inside my Burton boot. 

There is some hard riding going on right now for sure. The other day I swapped from the Coiler to the big Sims and a tiny little spark came shooting out. Steel to aluminum oxidation?

Maybe I am doing it all wrong. 

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17 minutes ago, carvedog said:

The other day I swapped from the Coiler to the big Sims and a tiny little spark came shooting out. Steel to aluminum oxidation?

Normal.  There's some chemistry between the stainless screws and the aluminum oxide of the TD disc.  Smells like sulfur like a freshly-struck match.  

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