Corey

If you had cut a funky shape you could have sold them for $200. Really funky? $500! You also could use washers, but then the F2 covers wouldn't go back on.

So true! Just try it, it's a small change. You may find you have a preference for how your riding style changes at lower or higher binding angles. 20 cm is the baseline that works for 90% of people. Then try narrower and wider to see if you like them. My personal preference: Under 20 cm feels more like a skwal, with toe and heel side turns feeling more similar. I'm gravitating more towards the wider end of the spectrum, it feels more like snowboarding. I've been absolutely loving a 23 cm waist board this year, and now my 20s feel narrow. Others love 14 cm boards. But you don't know until you try.

I think you're underestimating the amount of sand used in Winterpeg. A shovel would be more appropriate in some areas.

My last day was 2 weeks ago. Last few days were some of the best carving snow of the season, which was a pleasant surprise! Now I'm waiting for street sweeping to clear all the sand off the roads so I can play on the surf skate.

Wind in the screw a bit to move the toe and heel closer. When you can't push the boot down hard enough for the moving pins to click in place, then it's too tight. That's not a red flag, but I like mine a bit tighter than that. The system relies on preload between the front bail, the pins/wedges on the ramp of the heel pushing up, and the moving pins holding the heels down.

Interesting idea! Could help with that last tiny bit of heel lift where my liner slips upwards. Thanks!

Never fails - planned carving meets yield powder. It's win-win either way!

The most important question is: How long is a rope? I kid, but this seems like something that would be exceedingly hard to model in a pure mathematical sense. Knowing that a rider can change the turn diameter by loading the board, independent of edge angle, means it's going to be complicated. The Thirst sidecut design (and @johnasmo's subsequent open-source experimentation) gives a hint of this complication. My two Coiler Contras have absolutely become my favorite boards with a shocking versatility, so I'm a believer!

Great riding, exceptional analysis! I wish I had this many years ago - this would have cut years off my development. Such a clear and effective presentation of so many things! Thanks for posting!

Rereading my post, I should add: You don't need too much. I add 2 layers of those thin neoprene socks on my ankle bones and toes as they hurt the most, then one layer in other hot spots.

X2 here. The more padding, the less final pressure after it's done. I also add stuff around and between my toes to spread them out for wiggle room. I also add padding to that bump on top of the foot, my pointy ankle bones, and the bump on the outside of my foot. It feels awful when you first buckle up the boot with all this stuff, but it is good later. 10 minutes of discomfort for on-hill comfort! Neoprene paddling socks are relatively cheap (well, they were 10 years ago!) and give lots of material for toe caps and padding. Scotch tape holds well on skin. Then tape your insole to your foot and add a super thin sock over it all to keep the bits in place.

I check my 6 on almost every toeside. I must have skipped one, and the next one revealed a girl in a power snowplow starfish coming very fast at me. I kept turning and pulled over to the side as she blew past with zero attempt at a direction change from her. Terrifying...

Amazing to hear. Here's to rapid healing for you and all in this thread!

I hate my toes hitting the end of any footwear at any time. Then add in the leverage of hardboots and my big toes were in agony in 27 Deeluxes with low 28.x feet. My big toenails grew back much thicker and uglier. Hard pass on doing that again! It's the arch shape/molding that holds your foot anyway, so get a match for that and the toes could be much longer than needed.

That's sarcasm above. And well done sarcasm at that! @1xsculler - This is all about fun. No one is making money at this. (Except @crackaddict! ) Ride the conditions/runs you like and have fun! If you focus only on what you can't do you might miss what you can do.

The Revs are quite versatile. Try it without the plate first to change one thing at a time. Make note (mark on sidewall) of where you like the bindings front to back as it's basically impossible to see the original mounting holes once the plate is on. The plate smooths out ripples shockingly well, but makes the board numb as a consequence. You can charge through some stuff that would have you chattering without it.

You want the front axle to be at or ahead of the ball of your foot. Rear goes as far back as it can. Plan to spend some time relearning the basics like side slipping and stopping. Not overly hard, just different.

This:

If the bail has slightly pulled out of the shoulder lugs, replace them both! If it's simply unthreaded, it may have always been like that and you just didn't notice as they can't unthread once assembled. Disassemble, spin the lug off the bail and look at the threads. If there are grey aluminum bits in the dark silver (stainless) bail threads, then replace them. If the lug is seized, replace them. Your heel block is missing the elastomer pads that control motion, and there are small plastic bushings in there that could be replaced if you can drive the pivot pin out and get spares from Bomber. If not, replace the block.

That smile in the first clip says it all! Looks awesome!

I think they were nickel-plated aluminum. Raw aluminum is fine in snow.

That's literally the opposite of racing. We're trying to slow down by carving big arcs. Does any of that translate to an SBX course? Maybe, I'd ask an SBX coach rather than some flatland dude that snowboards on weekends!

How much salt do you put in soup? The right amount for you. When I used the stock Deluxe mech I was middle on front foot, all the way forward on rear foot. It's super easy to change, even mid run. So try one extreme and ride a bit. Then try the other extreme. Your body will let you know when it's not a good match for your style.

Picture standing on a scale. How can you make the number go up, even for a fleeting moment? - If you're standing tall, you can drop your body down and then press down with your feet to stop it moving down. That down weighting. - Or, if you're crouched down, you can explode upwards. That's up weighting. The scale can't tell which one you're doing. These are very transient conditions, just used to set the board in the snow before G-force builds. Now do the same thing, but focus on the moment when you make the scale # go down and that gets you up unweighting and down unweighting. You can't have one without the other and they're fleeting moments, so you have to pick where you do each in a turn. @nicholaswmin I'll move this to the racing section now that the discussion has focused that way.

This! Plus st-lupo's signature on the hill. When you do another lap every 7 minutes on a small hill with few run choices, everyone knows where you've been.