rustisgold

Thanks queequeg and philw! philw, I agree that huge boards are favored here. And to be fair my huge board is a total blast to ride, but in New Mexico, we have a lot of narrow steep terrain. I rode in Taos last weekend and had to switch to softboots after only three runs because I was EXHAUSTED from muscling the board through turns it wasn’t ready to make. Next year will be a short board year.

Thanks all!

Thanks Corey! Exactly the sort of info I was hoping for!

I know that riding a board that is too soft will make it harder to hold an edge, but how much of an effect would it really have on someone who is competent but not expert on a carving board? I currently ride a Donek Axxess 177 that I purchased second hand on this forum. It is a blast to ride but hot damn does it go fast. So so fast. I can never seem to finish turns on narrower runs so I end up having to scrub a ton of speed in the least carviest of ways (Especially on the busier days). I would like to buy a shorter board that will be more forgiving as the hill gets steeper or the runs get narrower (or both), but they all seem to be built for someone well under my weight (#220). Is it even worth considering a second hand board or a non-custom board, or would i need to go custom on a shorter board built for my weight? Thanks!

Hey man, it’s me! Ian!

If you sell the board sans bindings, I may be interested in the bindings!

oops... I havent seen a preset 3nm wrench. sorry. Here is one that goes down to 4... but 3nm is really not very tight. http://www.jensonusa.com/Park-Tool-PTD-Preset-Torque-Driver-PTD-5-14-Drive-5NM?pt_source=googleads&pt_medium=cpc&pt_campaign=shopping_us&pt_keyword=&gclid=Cj0KCQiAv_HSBRCkARIsAGaSsrDFIpNh1okgVugMmUh5BxmjQq6ONMF0BWmJMxsgUKCK_SuUm3TQ26EaAu9iEALw_wcB Here is the (bicycle) industry standard. Variable settings. Its pretty nice. But when I was a bicycle mechanic professionally, I recall reading an article about how even very expensive torque wrenches were as much as 2nm off at that low of torque, so really the difference between 3 and 4 (especially for something you are hoping will bear your weight) is not very much. https://www.coloradocyclist.com/pro-adjustable-torque-wrench?gclid=Cj0KCQiAv_HSBRCkARIsAGaSsrAICDe4iQVx77yApeaG5tA3qbJESGIU3OuhiG5za3CJxIiTXAiE74IaAu6MEALw_wcB

Lowrider, that is a great idea. I was thinking of a strap to loop under the boot and through the lever, but your idea is much much simpler.

The only thing is that there is a stopper built into the lever. Even without the latch there, the lever doesnt even get close to touching the top of the boot. In the lower picture, you can kind of see that the lever stopper is really only a couple mm away from hitting the bail. If it really were as far off as it looks, I probably wouldn't be asking. Its just seriously SO close.

TVR, on these bindings, the lever is plastic--otherwise I would never consider it! Corey, it definitely makes it past the middle and there is a very satisfiying snap. As shown in the pics, its SUPER close to closing entirely it just doesn't quite.

Hi all, I am getting back into carving after a long time off. Quick question about bindings: Is it a problem if the toe latch on my boot prevents the binding lever from closing all the way? Unfortunately, I didnt think to take a picture before leaving for work. It is extremely close to closing all the way and its definitely past the affirmative snap-in, however the stopper on the lever is a couple mm away from touching the front bail and the lever rests on the boot latch. Has anyone tried heating the lever and giving the end a little more bend to get it out of the way? Bindings are F2 carve Rs, Boots are Deeluxe Track 700

Do you still have this?

Looking to get back into hardbooting after some time off. Heavier than I used to be (~220). Definitely no serious racing and I would use it in the varied conditions of general US resort riding. Does this fit the bill?

I am also interested. Need to check my Mondo size, but if the London guy doesn’t work out!