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Oldster needs equipment advice.


swampoodle

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Daveo, I am using TD2 bindings. From the info I received here ski boots are definitely out. Found a pair of Raichle 124 snowboard boots. Look to be in good shape but bottoms look worn. 

How does this boot compare to the Burton reactors I am using?

Are parts available to replace the bottoms if needed?

Nick

 

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Edited by swampoodle
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I would recommend getting a snowboard hardboot for more range of movement.

a fellow hardbooter here uses a rossi ski boot and had to cut into it to get it to flex right.

his style of riding is upright all the time and i'm thinking it's because of his gear.

get a snowboard hardboot and you have already won the battle...

Win the battle, lose the war?

"Less is more...when more is too much"

---

Due diligence often?

 Might be a good idea to find out how he rides, if he's happy with how he rides, what he's working on with his riding, whether or not he feels he has any obvious limitations in his riding, if he has any immediate goals for his riding, and then try to figure out where the footwear and board selection fits in the scheme of things.

How much does he weigh, what kind of turns does he favor, where does he spend most of his time riding, and on what type of trails.

What did he like about his Reactors, and what did he not like.

Etc.

One might assume if he's using Reactors, and asking about ski boot binding compatibility, then he has the physical wherewithal to close his own bindings without stroking out. Could be he's an anomaly on the athletic scale with particular needs. 

Or just point him toward what everyone else uses with little regard for specific criteria and be done with it.

Snowboard hardboots and ski boots are both supportive footwear. If the boot doesn't match the user's athletic needs or anatomical requirements, one is no better than the other, regardless of what you call them.

 
 
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Swampdoodle, be very careful when replacing the toe/heel pads of those boots, as I've found the 'blue' plastic soles to be very slippery underfoot! Also, the 'Silver' soles are quite slick on ice or snowpack, though ok on wet cement. The forward lean on these is adjustable at the rear lever, but '3' is probably the best position for most riding (lever up, knob upright), but it's nice that with the lever down, staircases around the resort are no longer walk ing hazards.

As for cuff hinge blow-out, I highly recommend checking the inner slides that the T-nuts anchor to on a bi-weekly basis, as once the T-nut impinges on the slide washer, it's over with. Btw, 70% of my decades in hardshells has been spent with my riding with 'walk' forward flex, but the knob turned 90* to keep the forward lean at the '3' position. Why? Because the Ankle is the best joint for balance control. Anybody that thinks differently about the ankle need only to watch the movie Serenity again...

Edited by Eric Brammer aka PSR
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13 hours ago, Jack Michaud said:

@daveo, you're new here, and you seem younger.  We're glad to have new members, but this is a relatively small, respectful forum with people with a lot of experience. I'd recommend paying deference to senior forum members, and thinking twice before you hit submit reply. You could learn a lot from many people here.

I'm not quite sure what you're referring to. Personally, I don't think it's a good idea to make assumptions about, well, anything. :)

Edited by daveo
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Written-only communication is tough.  Things are easily confused without the face-to-face interaction.  

Either way, there are many choices.  Some are the easy button (Deeluxe/UPZ boots in Ibex, F2, or Bomber bindings), some may work well after optimization but require a lot more work/thought (ski boots in a stiff binding).  In general, unmodified ski boots are very rough for a beginner or even intermediate rider.  

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I'll turn 70 in two months so I'll put in my 2 cents.  I rode Raichle 324s for a few years and liked the performance but found the rachet adjustment buckles would slip or not release.  I went with Head StratosPros but had to have them cut to soften the flex.  I still use them and like them.

On days when I switch back and forth between skis and board I opt for my Dalbello Kryptons.  It's not perfect for either but is an okay compromise.  I believe the Full TIlt Classic would be a similar setup. 

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  • 1 month later...

Hey Swapoodle, I am a all mountain hardbooter and this past season I switched from UPZ and TD3s to AT (alpine Touring) boots and Phantom bindings. It was the best move I have ever made while snowboarding. The boots, Scarpa Spirits, are soft for AT boots, 3 buckles with a hike/walk forward lean lock lever on the back. They are super light, great flex for boarding (i will probably modify them in flex to make them softer this year) and easy to hike/walk in. I also switched bindings this year to the Phantoms and the combination is excellent. The first thing to note is the stack height, with the old set up I was almost 5" under my heal to the deck of the board, new set up about 1.5". This was huge for me. Second thing I noticed was how quick, snappy, and light the overall set up is. One thing to note is stance angle, with Phantoms the max angle is 30 degrees so I change from riding 47/43 to riding 30/30. It took a little getting used to but overall I like it now for all mountain performance.

 

http://www.phantomsnow.com

http://www.backcountry.com/scarpa-spirit-alpine-touring-boot?s=a

http://whistler-creekside.com

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2 hours ago, Aracan said:

The TD3s limited your angles more severely than boots with DIN soles?

Live and learn indeed.

I think it's more like the Phantoms can only go as high as 30, so he's just dealing with the overhang. 

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Oh. Well, being able to read certainly gives you an edge ;-)

I did not catch that part, but it's obvious in retrospect. That certainly rules out Phantoms for me. 30° would probably mean 2 cm overhang front AND back, even on a 24.5-waisted board. The bindings also look very rigid and unforgiving anyway ...

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