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My custom board


Przemek/Brooklyn

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It is a first pass on my new board.

Still need to explore few more graphic ideas, but shape is getting closer.

I am planing to increase a radius to 13M. and tweek side profile a bit.

This board is going to have metal construction i will be using it for extream carving, euro style but also a lot of swich carving , 360s, jumps ad more free style elements.

Any feedback?

I will post new version as soon as it is avalible.

post-2663-141842260007_thumb.jpg

post-2663-14184226001_thumb.jpg

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Twin tip stubby:biggthump

I :1luvu: Quadradic shapes because not being able to go either direction is only 1/2 as much fun.

asymetric flex patterns could really help to balance out steeper alpine angles, like a tinkler with different length snow stix.

I'd prefer faries rainbows & unicorns to the roses:rolleyes:

or maybe flaming skulls

ps the 23cm waist is just right

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Add a box of chocolates, candlelight dinner, and you've got a romantic day on the hill!

I really like the graphics, at first I had to think about it, though. Black roses and a Metallica logo on the base would be a dark and edgy contrast to the topsheet. The specs seem to be right in line with what your application is going to be. Very nice.

Mark

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That thing is nasty - in a good way. However that looks more like it should have at least 145cm of running length. My Coiler Safari which you saw at the ECES is a 170 with 155cm running. Personally, if this were my board I'd either stick with 12m at 160cm or go to 165cm and 13m. My board is 14m and it works great.

Edit - yeah, Shred's Schtubby X3 is nearly identical.

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I am working with Bruce and we will adjust side profile (decamber and gentel curve at the tips) also I am going to 13m scr.

yes it will be tween tip stubby, insert will be set back a little from the center line also flex patern will be assymetric.

Graphic need some more explorations, I will post visuals when ready.

I will avoid sculls and flames for sure, but pink unicorns might be interesting.

i love an idea of black roses on the bottom not sure if it is doable

Thanks for feedback

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Hi Jack

I am not sure if I want to increase overall size I really

don't need one more long board, however acording to Bruce runing edge does not end when camber ends but where round (top view) so this board running edge will be 145 at least even with 160 lenght. I need to confirm it with Bruce

SCR went up to 13 becouse Bruce said that metal board can be bend easier.

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Hi Jack

I am not sure if I want to increase overall size I really

don't need one more long board, however acording to Bruce runing edge does not end when camber ends but where round (top view) so this board running edge will be 145 at least even with 160 lenght. I need to confirm it with Bruce

SCR went up to 13 becouse Bruce said that metal board can be bend easier.

That's cool. 160cm just seems a bit short to me for 13m. But Shred's "Infiltrator" 161 has a 14.7m sidecut and he likes it. He designed that to be a board that would carve long and be able to be skidded around crowds easily.

If this is going to be your only board, or if it's replacing a 13m board, 13m would be the better choice, imo. But then I'd want 165cm if it were my board. Also I like to have at least a 2m difference in radius between boards in my quiver, so I'd go for 12m.

On the running length, yes, the snow goes way up the side of the nose when deep in a carve, so the end of the camber is not the end of the true running length.

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Sorry to hijack thread, but could someone explain me what is major benefit for this hammer-head type nose compared to conventional shape?

I mean else than getting board total length shorter.

good question, best I can say is they feel better at the beginning of the turn. perhaps someone has more to say but under me they seem grab very sure footedly without being too aggressive. whatever the explanation they work real well.

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Sorry to hijack thread, but could someone explain me what is major benefit for this hammer-head type nose compared to conventional shape?

I mean else than getting board total length shorter.

<del>It is purely to maximize running length.</del> <i>see followup post below</i> My board is 170cm overall, 155cm running. A typical board with 155cm running length would be 175cm overall.

bobdea is describing the effects of the decambered nose (camber stops well before sidecut ends) which has nothing to do with the stubby look of the nose. You could have a decambered nose with a traditional rounded or pointy style.

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Is the feel coming from missing piece of material in board nose which would anyway being in the air? Or is it just how rest of board is built according modern metal way ?

Jack, so if i understand correctly, that 5cm is just cut from piece normally never touching snow. So major benefit is that one can use smaller board bag :)

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Less free hanging material means slightly less vibration, too. However, that's important only to a racer. For a free-riding carver versatility of a bigger nose should be crucial. I mean it's just there for you when you need it, not affecting manouvreabiliy at all (except in trees on hard snow?!? or for the spins).

If this thing was mine, I would make it 175, 170 at least, with all the extra length in the nose... As the matter of fact I've got a very similar design on paper already.

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I'm on the Schtubby bandwagon as well:1luvu:

I'll have mine soon:1luvu:

Look for some of my boards to show up in the classifieds as my Schtubby will replace most of them I'm sure:eek:

I love how Bruces new Schtubby's ride.

The new flat nose makes the boards engage in a carve sooner than with a tranditional raised nose. Once you turn the board over and pressure the nose it hooks right up. You can sit back and relax on them.

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