Wolf Posted November 1, 2017 Report Share Posted November 1, 2017 In the thread about concerns with the Bomber business, there's been some discussion about painting TD3 bindings. Rather than driving that other thread off topic, I have an example of a painted TD3 plate if anyone is interested in what it looks like. I bought a board with TD3s that had apparently been stored damp. The binding plates had some discoloration and pitting, as shown in the first photo below. I tried gently wire brushing the plates, but that only made the pitting show up much more and it looked pretty ugly. As an experiment, I spray painted the plates to see how that would look. I had some matte-grey primer, so that's what I used, but obviously you can use whatever color you want. A painted plate is shown in the second photo. Note that I also used some parts that I had to change the toe and heel blocks, so ignore the differences in those. The third photo attached shows both bindings, after painting, mounted on the board they came on. It's a Donek FC Metal 175 with a custom graphic for a guy named Mitch (who happens to like gears). The painted bindings haven't been ridden yet, so I don't know how the paint will hold up. But so far, it seems pretty well adhered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRAZZ Posted November 1, 2017 Report Share Posted November 1, 2017 It would be interesting to see how that holds up! In my experience spray on finishes do not last when you have things knocking into them. For a really durable finish I would sand-blast and then do a baked on finish like Cerakote. But honestly, I'm more in for the grunge look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted November 1, 2017 Report Share Posted November 1, 2017 The biggest problems I see/hear from the paint experts at work: 1. Getting some kind of 'tooth' for the paint to grab on to. Perfectly smooth is perfectly slippery. Try sanding with very fine sandpaper to make more surface area for the primer/paint to mechanically grab onto. 2. Getting the surface clean after the above. Oils from your fingers mess up the adhesion. Silicone is the worst, causing fisheyes and the like. Don't use brake cleaner like I tried on an unrelated project - it leaves stuff behind that leads to the paint just coming off in a sheet the first time it's knocked. The Proflex/F2s that I painted are ok, but the paint is flaking around the 4x4 bolts in the center disc. It just flexes too much. These bindings were pretty rough, with lots of flaking of the nickel (or whatever) plating that was originally on them. The finish is ok from a distance, but all the surface defects show right through. I want more toe/heel lift than the standard F2 lift kit provides, but I've been too lazy to make custom shims. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jburk Posted November 1, 2017 Report Share Posted November 1, 2017 Sort of related, I took one of my TD3 baseplates into a local anodizing shop today that I know has low minimums and doesn't mind doing small jobs to look into going this approach. The good news was that their minimum for a black anodizing job was $30, the plates were going to be $4.50 each to anodize, and they could turn it around within a week. The bad news was that after a couple of tests, they said that they thought the base plates are nickel-plated, and the plating would have to be stripped before it could be anodized. They knew most of the shops in town who do plating work that could have stripped off the nickel plating, but they also said that none of them would touch small jobs (apparently it's come up before, and anyone they've sent anywhere hasn't had any luck). So close, but no soup for me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolf Posted November 2, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2017 My attempt at wire brushing removed the nickel plate, but it then gouged the relatively soft stainless steel underneath. But that along with the pitting in the nickel plate may give my spray paint more the adhere to. I cleaned with dish detergent because so many solvents leave a film behind. One encouraging sign for the paint is that I originally had the three big flat head screws that hold the plate to the cant/lift disk in the other three holes. You can see the mark from the contact with the screw head near the top of the photo of the painted disk. The paint didn't chip or crack there so that might indicate pretty good adhesion. It is a primer, not a paint, and perhaps that helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted November 2, 2017 Report Share Posted November 2, 2017 FYI: The base plate is plated aluminum. If the paint held up to the screws, then you've done a great job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRAZZ Posted November 2, 2017 Report Share Posted November 2, 2017 Another great way is to wash with alcohol, wait to dry and then put in the oven for a couple of minutes. Paint on the hot metal tends to stick better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolf Posted November 2, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2017 4 hours ago, corey_dyck said: FYI: The base plate is plated aluminum. If the paint held up to the screws, then you've done a great job! Aluminum - that's why my wire brush chewed it up. Guess I should have caught on when jburk talked about anodizing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael.a Posted November 2, 2017 Report Share Posted November 2, 2017 I had my TD3s powdercoated black and after 3 seasons of use they are holding up super. Tried painting them beforehand and it just did not hold up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueB Posted November 3, 2017 Report Share Posted November 3, 2017 Powdercoat is the way to go. But why? Bling look is the best part of TDs... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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