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Wolf last won the day on August 18

Wolf had the most liked content!

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About Wolf

  • Rank
    Carver Extraordinaire

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  • Location
  • Home Mountain/Resort?
    Snow Trails
  • Current Boards in your Quiver
    The $1100 "Econo-Quiver"

    Prior WCRM 163 x 19.5
    Coiler Nirvana 170 x 19
    Elan Ballistic 171 x 19 - still a favorite snappy ride
    Donek Metal FC 175 x 20
    Coiler Monster 182 x 21

    ... several more but those five get used.
  • Current Boots Used?
    Raichle 225 26.5 - yes, they're old
  • Current bindings and set-up?
    TD3 mostly. Cateks on the Elan. 50 and 45, ~19.5 stance.

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  1. I had good success with Smooth-On MT-13 epoxy doing a top sheet repair. Good adhesion and it hasn't cracked in the cold. Plus it's white so it matches a sidewall well. It's an industrial brand so unfortunately it's not cheap. I agree with you - definitely go with a slow cure epoxy. It's higher strength and more water resistant. I was able to borrow this at work. Maybe somebody else has experience with a less expensive consumer brand.
  2. I'm the sort that would try to repair just about anything, but it seems that even if you could get that section to adhere well with epoxy, the rest of the sidewall is probably also losing its adherence and likely to start coming loose too. It does seem like a good excuse for a new (or new to you) board.
  3. I would not try a heat gun, as this may not work and could weaken the plastic. I don't use F2 bindings, but is the plastic toe clip removable? If it is, perhaps replacing the toe clip with one from another brand of binding (maybe a Snow Pro) would help. But that seems unlikely. Otherwise, cutting the toe clip as you have suggested seems like the only option.
  4. Yes, they might be great for somebody's "little shredder" or maybe the little lady. Or maybe as hand warmers in lieu of mittens?
  5. Boots for small feets! Deeluxe Track 225, Mondo 22, in excellent condition. Liners have been molded once. The sole length stamped by the heel of the boot is 253mm. The last two photos show the most significant signs of use: some light scratches on the toe of the right shell and a little blue paint chipping on the buckles. These also come with some Aline suspension insoles that can be used to increase comfort and adjust fit, or they can be removed if you don't want them. See here: https://aline.com/active/ $125 plus shipping, PayPal no-fee "send money to a friend". US shipping by UPS ground runs around $16-35 depending on your location. Shipping by Priority Mail runs $23-$53.
  6. Deeluxe Indy Mondo 29 boots with Deeluxe moldable liners. Sole length 319mm. These boots are in excellent condition with little wear. They also have some Bio-Sole inserts that might be useful to adjust the fit. $150 plus shipping, PayPal "send money to a friend". Shipping by UPS ground will run around $17 to $40 depending on your distance from Ohio. Shipping by Priority Mail runs $25-$55.
  7. Wolf


    Emailed for details on the TD3s....
  8. I think you want an AF series part for those boots. YYZcanuck is great. Email them to be sure you get the right part, and also ask if they can do better on the shipping. Their "standard" shipping to USA for small parts is high but they offered something more reasonable when I needed a buckle a few years ago.
  9. "They found skiers wearing helmets were ... twice as likely to suffer ... chest injuries." Well, it's conclusive. Helmets are bad. They cause chest injuries. But I guess I'll keep using mine. I actually may be alive today because I was wearing a helmet when I fell off a ladder a couple of years ago. It was one of those forestry helmets with the built in hearing protection that I was wearing because of the noise from a disk sander (removing paint) plus the face shield helped protect from paint chips. I had brain bleeds with the helmet. Who knows how bad it would have been without....
  10. No, sorry. They are sold.
  11. I don't EC, probably couldn't if I tried, but I'd also feel even more vulnerable to getting run into from behind if I did.
  12. That comment gave me a great laugh, to top off a really informative post. I guess if I can't figure out how to use my adjustable spanner to work on my multi-speed bicycle because my shoelaces got caught in the chain, I'm even more lost.
  13. Jcar - just to be clear about the floppy bails on Cateks, there's some friction holding the bails up and they won't flop down on their own unless there's a lot of wear in the toe or heel blocks. But if you accidentally step on or kick the bail, it will push right down. Plus stepping on the bails accelerates the wear that makes them more floppy.
  14. The old alpinecarving website (not updated in ~10 years) has some good photos: http://www.alpinecarving.com/binding_model.html And here's an exploded view: And, the toe and heel bails can flop down on Cateks, but you can rig up spring or piece of rubber to hold the bails up. There was a thread with some other ides for this. Note that the photo also shows a TD3 steel heel receiver modified to fit a Catek binding. And one more FYI - Catek offered an upgraded "D2" elastomer set that was thicker and offered a little more isolation. The original elastomers were green. the D2 are the gray ones. As others said, the spherical nuts are the essential custom part. If you buy Cateks, make sure those are not missing.
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