vapor Posted November 10, 2007 Report Share Posted November 10, 2007 After hacksawing file it smooth so there is no tendency for cracks to develope on the rough edge from the blade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk Posted November 11, 2007 Report Share Posted November 11, 2007 Thinking that 10x7.5 is about the right size. If anyone knows any reason why I should *not* try cutting this stuff with a hack saw or drilling with a standard drill please speak up. Mike, EXACTLY the dimensions I came up with. Don't know about the material that you have now, but DON'T try your standard 3/8" drill with regular plexiglass. Bought a small sheet just to play around with - way too brittle. I'm going to stay away from the acrylic stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abakker Posted November 11, 2007 Report Share Posted November 11, 2007 plexiglass=very very very bad idea. as we have seen here, it is brittle and not durable, nor flexible. if you use plexiglass, and ride hard, there is a good chance that it will break from the cold and flexing and loosen sufficiently for you to overstrain your inserts. the potential for bad results is much too high. polycarbonate on the other hand is what they make industrial safety glasses and goggles out of. it is easy to work as well as strong and temperature tolerant. these materials are NOT the same, please do not make that mistake if you are going to make your own risers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobdea Posted November 11, 2007 Report Share Posted November 11, 2007 if it's polycarbonate have no worries, drill and saw it with whatever it gets hot though with fine blades Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted November 11, 2007 Report Share Posted November 11, 2007 It is indeed polycarbonate that I've got on the way. I'll post some pix when I'm done - won't be cosmetically beautiful but should be quite functional. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobdea Posted November 11, 2007 Report Share Posted November 11, 2007 make sure you get some high quality screw! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thumper Posted November 11, 2007 Report Share Posted November 11, 2007 If you are making your own spacers, make sure to round off the bottom edges of the spacer -otherwise you still have a sharp, 90 degree edge that can dimple the board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hans Posted November 11, 2007 Report Share Posted November 11, 2007 I think the lack of snow is causing a lot of folks to act crazy lately. Why are you all wasting your time building a kludge plate when you can buy a real thing made professionally with precision? Spend good money for a nice beautiful metal board to put an eyesore plastic on it .Not even talking about the performance disadvantage. The metal-plastic interface has got to be problematic on many fronts. Bola You are definately right. New website from Catek is up with beautiful spacers: Catek Spacers and beautiful Kessler KST boards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carvedog Posted November 11, 2007 Report Share Posted November 11, 2007 I would run the plates under any binding I use.Even the picture scott from catek posted in another post showed girls runing the plate on SG boards which have a topsheet much like coliers. You guys can do what ever you want. I'm running at minimum the spacer(polycarb, polypro) 5mm plate on all my metal boards with F2s. If I was running TD2 I would run the plate and the suspension kit. Just my out look, If the boardbuilder you are riding says your cool with out a plate hopefully if any thing happens the board builder will honor that call and take care of you IF there is an issue. Your call we are all grown ups. I would look to what riders on metal boards in a race course are doing. I am sure you could stack the home depot plate. I am not but again your call. Bordy. Wha'ts up? Are you using spell check? I for one miss the unfiltered typing from you. Just the passion of the moment, almost stream of consciousness driven, even if it does ruffle a few feathers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bordy Posted November 11, 2007 Report Share Posted November 11, 2007 Nope no spell check on that post, I quess I just got lucky! I'm sure there will be many more rants straight from the brain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terryw Posted November 11, 2007 Report Share Posted November 11, 2007 I think the lack of snow is causing a lot of folks to act crazy lately. Why are you all wasting your time building a kludge plate when you can buy a real thing made professionally with precision? Spend good money for a nice beautiful metal board to put an eyesore plastic on it .Not even talking about the performance disadvantage. The metal-plastic interface has got to be problematic on many fronts. Bola www.allboardssports.com 1-303-415-1600 What are the spacers on your Kessler? Hard to tell from the image. And it appears as you have doubled layered them. Just curious. They sure don't look like the Catek spacers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted November 11, 2007 Report Share Posted November 11, 2007 I think the lack of snow is causing a lot of folks to act crazy lately. Why are you all wasting your time building a kludge plate when you can buy a real thing made professionally with precision? Spend good money for a nice beautiful metal board to put an eyesore plastic on it .Not even talking about the performance disadvantage. The metal-plastic interface has got to be problematic on many fronts. Bola www.allboardssports.com 1-303-415-1600 Can you elaborate on your comment on a metal/plastic interface being problematic? I'm in need of some education here as I suspect are many readers. To be brutally honest I'm not concerned about eyesores, the Track 700's (and many past Raichle and Deeluxe boots) are already eyesores. I'll already be sporting a pair of those so what's a little Lexan under the bindings next to those? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jp1 Posted December 31, 2008 Report Share Posted December 31, 2008 OK, it's been over a year since the last post. Yea, I'm behind everyone else (been off the board for 2 years) but want to ride as soon as the weather ever decides to co-operate. Since I bought a used Metal Coiler, I've been reading everything I can for the past couple of days about board/binding interface. I have Catek Olympic SI's (OS1's) with the standard elastomer so have some concerns. I will at the minimum for now make a 'distribution plate' as Bordy and others recommended out of .100"-.250" Polycarbonate whatever we have (luckily I work with it often) and of coarse compensate for the added thickness with longer stainless steel screws. I'm thinking 7 1/2" X 11", radiused corners and edges. My question is, since it has been over a year, what are some of your experiences with what you made yourself. What are some of the Pro's & Con's? Are you happy with the results? What would you do different? Larger,Smaller? Different material? Did you notice any difference in ride or performance? Just curious, I always seem to get a good input here. :) Thanks-jp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cail Posted December 31, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2008 my plates ended up working out just fine... my board did break but not due to the bindings or riser plates. doing it differently i would not use a dremel tool to cut by hand :rolleyes: but i think i had mentioned that already. maybe make them a bit longer and not parallelogram shape. no real reason for those observations. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jp1 Posted December 31, 2008 Report Share Posted December 31, 2008 Sorry to hear about your board. Yea, I seen where someone had posted a to use a fine blade. I've found that a fine blade tends to over heat (melt) the polycarbonate and ball up thus clogging the blade easily, unless you run it at an extremely slow speed. Personally I have found a coarse blade in a bandsaw the best. If you don't have access to a bandsaw a coarse blade (like a wood blade) in a variable speed jig saw is awesome. When you hit the right speed their is hardly any finishing work needed, other than light sanding. I was thinking the same thing as far as shape. I guess some use the parallelogram shape because that's the direction the binding sits on the board and you probably wouldn't turn the binding the other direction, and or estetics? I'm more interested in dispersing the maximum amount of energy over as big of an area as practical. I even tossed around the idea of making one large plate to cover the area of both bindings (sort of shaped like the VIST plate, open in the middle between bindings) to try to get all of the energy to the edges of the board. But I think that may inhibit the way the board was designed to work, I feel keeping feet independent may be better for general riding? Thanks for the feedback & Happy New Year--jp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted December 31, 2008 Report Share Posted December 31, 2008 I've got several metal Coilers, all with topsheets over the metal, and don't use anything to isolate bindings from board. No problem so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jp1 Posted December 31, 2008 Report Share Posted December 31, 2008 Mike T, This particular board has the metal top sheet. Bruce was nice enough to answer an email I had sent him. I don't have the board in hand yet, and didn't ask for the numbers when purchased, but it sounds like it is one of the earlier ones that did have issues with Cateks mounted to them. It's not what I wanted to hear, but I APPRECIATE the Truth, at least now know I need to try something. Thanks for the reply, Happy New Year--jp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted December 31, 2008 Report Share Posted December 31, 2008 If you're got the topsheetless version (titanal layer is the topsheet) than I would heartily agree that isolation is good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Ong Posted January 1, 2009 Report Share Posted January 1, 2009 My question is, since it has been over a year, what are some of your experiences with what you made yourself. What are some of the Pro's & Con's? Are you happy with the results? What would you do different? Larger,Smaller? Different material? Did you notice any difference in ride or performance? Just curious, I always seem to get a good input here. :) Thanks-jp I used clear lexan and the only thing that bugs me is that it looks like hell from all the water stains, Maybe a solid color if it doesn't clash too much with the topsheet ? Or i could just clean the damn things once in a while :p Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jp1 Posted January 1, 2009 Report Share Posted January 1, 2009 James, Thanks, I was wondering about that. I thought about painting it on the backside, but figured the paint would wear from the friction between the board and the riser and eventually create a mess. We have some 'smoke' tinted around that may be better than clear. If not, we have a Plastics Supplier in the area, I can buy colored polycarbonate from I think. Has anyone painted theirs, if so how did it hold up? After seeing the results of riding on Titanal toposheets the past couple of days (sick, seeing all these boards breaking) starting to re-think this whole thing. I may go with a 1 huge plate (shaped similar to a conshox)? Even thinking about making the spacer out of .060" 6061 Aluminum and sandwhich a thin layer of teflon (.020"ish) between the plate and the board. Yes, I think it will effect the boards performance :( but maybe it will keep it in 1 piece and rideable ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted January 1, 2009 Report Share Posted January 1, 2009 Don't span the two bindings! You'll put a huge amount of stress into the inserts and dramatically affect the stiffness between the bindings. You could go as long as you want though as long as there's a gap between the plates. This will still affect the stiffness, but only a fraction as much as connecting both bindings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jp1 Posted January 1, 2009 Report Share Posted January 1, 2009 cory, that makes sense (the stress on the inserts) something I hadn't thought of. Maybe the better bet would be to go with the 2 piece idea (Alum. & Teflon), split the Aluminum (top piece) and leave the Teflon underneath in one piece as it will flex ? I'm trying to keep the weight in consideration also. I actually think the 2 piece system may be lighter also, as Polycarbonate is pretty heavy. Thanks, anyone else ? -- jp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b0ardski Posted January 1, 2009 Report Share Posted January 1, 2009 The conshox plate mounts to the front but "floats" between the board & rear binding to prevent stress on the inserts. There's one for sale on ebay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jp1 Posted January 1, 2009 Report Share Posted January 1, 2009 b0ardski, I seen the link on the For Sale board before, but couldn't link to it. I just checked it out. I've seen them on boards in pictures but never seen one in person, so without seeing it don't totaly understand how it works. Sounds like it's basically a full plate that 'floats' on the topsheet ? Is it a Carbon Fiber material or a just a fake CF finish? It looks pretty thick (height), so I'm guessing it is hollow? If it is hollow underneath, is their a layer that contacts the whole topsheet surface of the board? If not do you think it would still help keeping the Titanal topsheet from buckling? Any experience with them? I guess I can get the Specs. (width) by going to the F2 site and finding the widths of the boards they are on? Doesn't sound like the Seller want's to be bothered. Do you have any idea of what they 'go for' in a store? Seems anymore, ebay is not for buyers as much as sellers. Many times I've bid on things that ended up selling higher than what I could buy them and have them shipped to me for. 3 days left, it's in my Watch List. Thanks -- jp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b0ardski Posted January 1, 2009 Report Share Posted January 1, 2009 No 1st hand experience, I would have bid on it and kept quiet but I'm broke. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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