Eric Brammer aka PSR

Brent, I have a Rad-Air Soul 159, goofy asym. Look in my photos on FB, under 'soul boards' pic. It needs a base tune (which Starting Gate can handle). The nice things about this board are the stances available, not 'constricted' like PJs/M's were, so 21", on a 4x4 hole-set is quite comfy. It features a bit of upturn at the tail, so, it'll go fakie easily, and has better edge-hold (well, when tuned correctly) than 90% of Burton's boards. I, btw, am living in Claremont these days, so, I can deliver it. I also have a '95 Ride Kildy 164 race board, but the stance is 17", kinda knock-kneed... PM me here, if these interest ya.

Going from an older Burton, the Donek Freecarve is the 'next step', and if you get it with metal inclusive (though, perhaps just 5lbs. 'under' your weight, so it'll still flex), you'll have a board that's confidently grippy on Ice, and that Eastern 'snow' that gets spewed from snowguns. Boots; the Burton Wind was a Dalbello boot, so both Blax and Head snowboard boots are of similar ilk, but also 'old'. Do heed the warning about the 'clear plastic' boots Burton had made 18 yrs. ago, they 'shatter', weaker plastic.. UPZ is likely to be a good, new-build boot for you. The Deelux 700's also fit similarly, but have an 'offset' cuff hinge that, for some, just flexes wrong.. Bindings; Ibex still makes the 'burton' Race Binding, if you can forego 'step-in' functions. Other step-ins such as F-2 or Bomber using the Intec/Fintec heel will be quite restrictive in lateral motion (The boot won't twist L/R at all) so if you used a cant in the past, you'll want that feature again, or you'll 'fight' the boot cuff's restrictions.. One more thought.. A board like the Donek MK is a beast, but a good beast for eastern snow. It's 'nervous', wants to Always Carve, and it'll complain it driven poorly, but has enormous rider-growth potential, taking you as far as you're willing go in hard freecarving/slalom (I waited 2 decades for that board; It's GOOD, but demanding). If you're able to get low/dynamic in your turns, perhaps this would work for you? Or, not. refer to Carvemaster Challenge video (made, um 19 yrs. ago) for the 'dynamic'. Coilers, provided you Know What ya want, are great boards. And Bruce can make you a board you'll want to ride; but, you'll need to 'know' 1st...

With board width, one needs to be concerned with three major issues; Foot size; Stance Angles preferred; Purpose of the Board. If you need more info/ observations, go to Freecarve. PSR knows why.

Ask around at a few ski-shops first. Note whether they cater to Racers, or are just selling 'whatever'..Dick's sports isn't a likely good bet. Don't get hustled into doing a 'boot fix'; ask about just 'how' they handle YOUR situation. Should it come the point where they've spent +- half an hour to explain/show how they would fix a given issue, be nice enough to tip the Tech. But, if it's a 'hurry-up+fixit' approach, move on. One thing to consider is how they will fit the toe box (Ski Racer's Fit is really SNUG, and, NO, that is not what ya want!), as YOU as a Snowboarder will up on Tippy-toes every-other-turn! Can your liners be heat molded? Do they have an Air-Convection oven (and do they know how to use it!?), or are going reach for a heat-gun (NO! that isn't right!)?! What footbeds do they sell? Can they back those with some kind of fit guarantee? So, go in with Eyes Open, and be sure to poke around. Ask for customer references, too. Recall, too, that your situation is likely a 'rare event' for most fitters (there aren't too many Hardboot Riders out there..), so an experienced fitter is a better bet (but an overly opinionated one isn't always better! Some Skier's don't get it.). Note, I didn't say 'go to a snowboard shop', snowboard goods are disposable, and the Sales Crew knows only how to kick crap out the door. It's marketed that-a-way, millenial consumerism..

So, with the 'almost fit, but those Toes!' thing... Have a bootfitter work the Liner first, (But, damn-it, NO Cutting the outer structure/cloth) with heat and pressure (both in moderation) to form it to fit YOUR foot/toes. IF your Fitter doesn't have 'partial shells', that allow for 'pressure from within' forming (possibly while using a foot-mold that expands, with bulges fitted to it, thus forming the 'pockets' your Bones need!), then, well discuss options or go elsewhere. Stretching/grinding your shells in usually a later attempt/event, as that weakens the shell, and is irreversible. I know, because that's how damn screwed up my Left Foot is now (And I've been in TF liners since '94) due to my working in a Machine Shop. Nothing molded to me 7 yrs. ago matters anymore, my foot got Worked, period. But, I digress; Should a boot 'almost' fit, there are many little fixes (sometimes in combo) that can bring the shape of the inner, then perhaps outer, boot to a point that there's room to be comfortable, yet still have a secure fit. I still blame the Snowboard companies, though. We're STUCK with faux ski-boot/faux-mountaineer/faux-tele boots for our choices in Plastic Boots (this, even with Northwave's resurrection=-=As that boot was originally from a Mountaineer shell, circa 1989), with little thought put to Toe-box area/width [outside of what Skier's dictate], Heel-hold down, Heel shock absorption, or Cuff rotation/articulation/canting. That's MY List of 'IMPROVEMENT AREAS' that have yet to be ADDRESSED by a boot-builder. This is why I'm excited with Dodge Boots, as they can FIX THIS CRAP, provided someone has the Knowledge/$$, and is willing to look 20 yrs. ahead. With my leaving Stratton to try to raise my kids, I lost a lot of contacts with those who had money and passion. But, perhaps, someone here can roll this snowball where it needs to go. Or, not. Some of the users here LIKE foot Pain...

It'll likely be a 'correct' board for someone with a few more #'s on them. It's wide enough to be driven 'casually', so, in that regard, it's a somewhat versatile board. With a good Coach, you could make this board into an ally, BFF, even. For a 1st-timer, um, maybe not? A BX board is likely a better 'early-on' board. Still, this might do quite well for a novice that wants to improve without having the board limit them.

I'd love to ride that back-to-back with the 183 Tanker I used in the Carvemaster vid! Does it nose-roll at 25 mph? And still hang in carves going either way? And can it wiggle through Kidderbrook Ravine on a pow-day? Oh, and last test, can it keep pace with my Racing Students in a Race course? If YES to the above, we've a new Oil Slick to make upon torpedo launch! Whose working on that Torpedo, btw? "PSR"

That's likely a pretty decent 'fit'. What you want to do, the first 2-3 days out in them is wear really thin socks, but have another pair (just a tad thicker) on hand in case you get some 'slippage' as they wear in. Also, have your regular, familiar board/gear on hand, as not to end a lift-ticket only 2-3 hrs. into the day. Talk with a bootfitter, too. Little tweaks can adjust fit in ways you might not consider. I'll let the other Erik give you details of how bootfitters can torture their clients while hypnotizing them to give money (it's an Art all it's Own, like, a Good Dentist is!). But realistically, you've got to go ride them to 'pack them in', and the first few times out will have 'comfort' issues. Once you find Those, then 'the healing' can begin.

I can't say a thing about the 'new' freecarve Glass board, but the old one was Lively, Smooth, flexed nicely, until you exceeded it's grip under high-pressure turns, usually on very firm snow. Then it 'fell apart' and you went elsewhere, usually along the fall-line (oh, that's why it's called...that...) on your knees/back. The METAL allowed for a damper ride, better edge-hold, but lost the 'nimble+lively' feel. A better Race board, and a decent hard-park deep carver, it also could deal with raised plate systems. But, is power steering lost on a Porsche?? The newer non-metal boards I've been on from Donek make me think, and hope, that the 'glass' Freecarve has no power-steering, but better tires, and the 911 is ready to Rally again.

Yes, by 'go as wide' as- I do mean the stance! Those were made with way-too-narrow stance options. Being an asym, it also rides a bit different than modern boards in that the sidecuts tend to work best from pressure in the board's middle. Most new build boards will accept a lot more pressure input along the tip/tail, thus letting you 'play' with edge hold both earlier in the turn, and later as well. Kinda like the fattened 'sweet spot' new tennis rackets have compared a Jimmy Connors vintage woodie.

The anti-thesis of Carved turns, but IF you're an Instructor, an invaluable Riding tool to master! Did I say 'Master'? Yup.. I've seen AASI L-3's totally lose it trying to Sideslip bumps (try it sometime, no going at a slip-angle less than 70* to the Fall-Line, but NOT stopping, in bumps!) !! When I first Demo-ed Snowboards for Ski-Patrol in '89, the second test they had for me was an Evac Sled with 150Lbs. of weight in it, down a moderate Black Diamond (Black-Out, under the Triple chair @ Okemo), which I had to slip down the hill (on my Barfoot 161 Freestyle) at a pace set by a wedging Patroller (he had no sled!). You pull that off, you can Claim, imho! I did pass their rider-skill tests, but it took another 3 seasons before we had 'snowboard' Patrollers there.

Boots First! The UPZ will be a bit wider in the toe, but very familiar/comfy. Go as wide as that Burton will let you, but know that at that point, you might exceed it's 'comfort zone'. Auto-mat Burton's are not a 'keeper' save for the random collector; however, I've only seen two pair 'accidentally' release, and then, they had 'gunk' that made them not Latch fully to begin with. Update those when you can (or, hey keep them for the Asym?!). As for the deck, it's actually really good, save for the stancing options! But, that, after the boots ('cause 4x4 Burton discs are abundant) is the Priority, but, not the Money Whore, You can get another 'used-but-more-modern' excellent board for $300, if you're patient about what you buy. Same goes for Bindings/Cants, as you'll note many folk selling these goods for less than $300 (with canting). Be careful what you choose, though. You do want it to match your stance/riding style, but with growth/exploration in mind (nothing too stiff, yet) As for boards, think of width, and flex profile. You want a similar width, slightly stiffer board, with a slightly more open side-cut. Good luck with the hunt!

Equipment lockers aren't available at the hill?? Wear shoes, carry boots. Use Drill Instructor Tactics to keep the kids within reach until YOU'RE Ready to ride? Yeah, and Don't drive in a clunky boot, especially if You are the Bus driver.

Right... You can climb backcountry with 'modern' hardshells? VIBRAM SOLES, Baby!! Koflach's Rule for the Hike + ride. And having a step-in that also works on snowshoes has got a certain advantage. Oh, and Jack, Sidewinders... I'm the guy who first put that idea on Fin's table (although G+S snowboards first put a lean-pivot hadboot binding out on the US market in '90)...

Switch brand bindings would be the candidate for a step-in, attaching along the sides of the boot sole. Shave a few lugs off of Vibram-soled AT boot (Like Early Raichle SnoBoarder, Koflach Valluga, or maybe even the Nordica Coach boot?), and just bolt the receiver to the shank/sole, tucked in close to the heel block. The receiver has 5 bolt holes, so even #8 or 4mm machine screws/t-nuts should hold, although #10/5mm might be a better bet. The ONLY issue I had with the binding Switch made was in just-under-freezing rain, where the cam froze up (iced over, actually), and the pre-highback boots (like many step-in boots) just sucked for support on heelside turns. Of course, all of the above are relics from a past age, so unless you've got this old crap on hand, you probably aren't going to make this kit. My pair of Switch bindings are likely going to an old friend who has my old Vallugas (Pink, just like Damiens!) so that he can get some back-country riding on the Western Slopes in Colorado.

Watched 'Versa Tempus' on the VCR... I always thought he'd be able to beat the sands of time.

So, back to a Carvestik, maybe. They're NOT made for too much of a bigger wheel, so watch that... When I Noted the Landy Evo, I wasn't Kidding... It's a great free-carve deck, IF NOT set up with DH trucks, but instead 'turnier' trucks (even some Reverse Kingpin trucks qualify, btw). The premise that Carveboards were originally made with was a Snowboard/Surfer Crosstrainer, and I Wholeheartedly Agree with the Mission, if not the resulting product! However, since then, there has been three revolutions in 'longboard' skateboarding. One was Speed, so decks and trucks all got burly, and got Big, and soft. Slalom skateboards arrived [again, 20 yrs. on!] and demanded quicker trucks,Better bushings!, faster, stickier wheels, and better deck construction. And then Sliding, became a means of descending during a Race (previously, we used it to flat-spot wheels and Save Our Asses! on Steeps). So when you look at a Landyatchz Evo, you're looking at some very protracted thinking... They made the board to Go Fast. They made it to accept most RKP trucks, and BIG (100mm!) wheels. They made it set to Steer Progressively Forwards (NOT FORKLIFT Steering!, Race-Car Steering!) without any need to Angle the risers. So, no wheel issues, directional steering (using most any 'normal' longboard/skateboard trucks of the correct width), and it's concaved to cradle your feet really well. IT WILL NOT WORK WITH CARVEBOARD TRUCKS! But using 10mm 610 bearings it can run their big air-inflated wheels, with a 10mm-axle DH Truck like Bear's 852 with the 10mm axle option, or Indeezes with similar axles. Otherwise, you're back to the Industry Standard of an 8mm bearing/axle kit. So, please, look the equipment over with due care. Yes, possibilities abound, but creative thinking and awareness of components will dictate your success at making your dream-carver. Contact me directly should you need to. I am the "Pre-School Rider" in that, {save for about a hundred of my predecessors who Surfed b4 i was born, } I know a few things about 'crossing over' from sk8-to-snow on a board. Look at NCDSA or Silverfish or Concrete Wave for board/wheel/truck ideas/options and build ideas. There is neat stuff out there, , and If you ask the right question, you might get 'the answer'...

If Only... No, my LIFE is a Mess, and will be for awhile. I'll contribute if I can, but, for the for-see-able future am not able to do more than smooth things over over at Okemo, and Teach at an Event. It has been great to see so many step up (YOU Included, Jack!!) to keep the ECES alive, and I am so proud of those who have done so. It has been a Passion of mine since it's inception, and I would've been much, much more involved over the years. But, see, you lose a lil' thing like your House, Fortune, Kids, wife, part of your sanity, health (NO insurance, of course), you just can't help but STEP OUTSIDE for awhile.

As I said, rent a small tractor.... Tow it up, u-turn it, block it, set-to-go... Then go rent a small u-haul trailer, and learn to back IT up your drive (tractor b4 Subby?, maybe..). Or. Hire ME to fly out and back that smoothly up for ya! You pay the Airfare, and some travel expenses to relatives I haven't seen in decades. Either/Or..

It will truly suck if the ECES doesn't continue this next season! Okemo had tried to buy into Hardboot Demoes , and, what came of That? I would be, personally, appalled, if some effort wasn't given in that general direction, This Season. Momentum wasted, is, well, lost... downhill...

I love this Board! Bozi made these with a 'slant-nose' that improved the turn up front (more like a Car, than, say, a Forklift, so DON'T go Switch on it!!). I note the Trackers (Excellent cruiser trucks! good for going Fast!!), Stimulator bushing (again, one of my additions to longboard equipment as a 'must-have' if U went Fast! I doubt they would've been in demand if I hadn't noted them on NCDSA 20 yrs. ago), and the JG designed TURNER AVILA wheels (which, if lathe-trimmed, would erase the crumbles on the outer edge, and still be 'O.K.' to collectors!) which are Stooopid Fast and grippy! This is a Classic board, and good Combo set-up. Jeff Bosworth would Approve, I am sure! (Btw, I am still riding my Bozi GS quite often, 14 yrs. after it got me to 2nd place at The Worlds Super-G on Turri Rd., near Morro Bay, Ca... It's a Keeper, for certain!) So, regard this board 'Set-Up' with a bit of Respect. It is done Right, for someone who wants to Cruise Fast with flowing turns on moderate/steep hills. I wouldn't, however, bring it to VT/NH nor the Steeper parts of Colorado. 6% grade (unless sliding) is it's max comfort zone. "PSR"

Keeping the trucks very close to where they were is your best option in using the board's shape for wheel clearance. 1/2" inboard would likely be enough, so you'll be keeping the trucks on the 'bend' regardless. Btw, those trucks are of a very flat geometry, so DO NOT mount them 'flat' as you would on a normal skateboard/longboard truck; If you did, you'd Lean, but NOT TURN!! [They wanted to use springs, but didn't want to use Dan Gesmer's Seismic trucks, so they designed around his many patents; hence the need to mount on a slanted surface!] So, Riser pads is where you're at. You can buy the 'old-school' 1/2" urethane riser pads, turn them sideways , clamp them where you mount the trucks, and readily poke mounting hole with a hand-held drill by using the mounting holes already in your deck as 'hole-guides'. ones like these; http://oldschoolskates.com/riserphoto.aspx You'll want the "G" type, which is flat, urethane, and not too soft. I think that a 1/2" would do in giving it enough clearance, but you might need a tad more.

I've ALWAYS been Comfy on 'Wider' boards for carving, because I didn't buy into the limitations imposed by a very narrow board. I have known, for DECADES, that being stanced at less aggressive angles allows CONTROL in the vectors of both Fore/Aft leverage, but also Toe/Heel actuation. On point of the 'Stance Scale', you get great edge awareness, and flat-board-to-the-snow feel when your feet are more ACROSS a board; Yet when your feet are angled truly Forward, you get Quick Edge Response, a drag-free fee l when Really Leaning into it, and excellent edging Power. Subtle moves to the edge (finesse, if you will) are muted, but the Power is Increased by your better ability to leverage to the Fore+Aft, if using Hardboots. So, IMHO, if you ride with angles between the high 30's up into the 50's, you are IN THE POWER BAND for Thrust and Carving Control. You may still be able to pull a 'switch-stance' move, too, but many 'freestyle' motions will be harder/improbable to pull off. Is this 'Best' for Carvers or Racers? Sometimes, it is, as the Versatility shines through, and Frees the feet to DANCE. But, in terms of absolute speed, or Carving Aggression, maybe not. You, as a Rider have to set-up our own Goals, and pick for yourself. As One of my younger students asked these recent days ("why don't you Always Ride a RACE Board?") My answer:. ["I am not always RACING, Nor ALWAYS Carving, but I DO WANT to Always be able to do Great CARVES"].. This is true, regardless of my direction of travel, and regardless of my boots/bindings, or stancing, or... Not going to cow-tow it, I FREECARVE/FREERIDE/FREESTYLE/FREERACE/and hit FREE-POW when I Can! Pick your Board to suit, and Just Romp what's best for You.. Luckily, that's most of any season, anywhere, for ME!

Rent a lawn tractor!

Dodge Ski Boots, made in VT... Anyone want to advise them on a 'snowboard boot'?