Eric Brammer aka PSR

Ah, yes, on wet stairs... I forgot about that. Ended up stair-skiing into the Green Door Pub one night!

In '89, I worked at Okemo. I had 4 Times as many boards as The Mountain had, in my personal quiver (that's 25, for me, 6 for Okemo). Down to 22 at present, but, 9 are kid's boards. 4 have have fins (or attachments for fins), 5 would be 'swallowtails', 3 are over 180cm, 4 are asymmetrical, 3 have squared-off tails, two are Madd, 7 are Rad-Air, and one lonely Sims...

My collection, along with Thrashers, ISM's, Action Nows, and Skateboarder Mag's has been decimated by the tribulations of losing my house/garage/barn during the Seperation. In Historic terms, these are worth more than you might think! And, btw, this was a pretty decent magazine, better than what Transworld has de-evolved into, certainly!

Laughing hard enuff to make my eyes water!! Thanks!! LOL, loud enough to tick off the upstairs neighbors! :-D

I think this is really an issue of foot shape as much as anything else. Raichle/Dee-Lux do have an advantage in that changing the boot flex is as easy as a tongue-swap. But, the shell-wrap tongue on UPZ's is also modifiable, and the straps have finer adjustment, which makes for a more comfortable fit overall. If walking without slipping is a virtue, then, UPZ wins...

So, I said 'a tad of canting'.. Let me clarify... You're using Cateks, which, are awesome for little tweaks in stancing, such as heel or toe lift, but, also in cant adjustments. You need only to use a single thread's rotation on diagonally opposite screw posts to make a 1* differential. Now, 'Why' you'd cant at the binding; Rolling the rear binding in+down at the Big Toe will let you recover from being a bit hip-behind-the-board, or let you more easily control a deeply pumped turn (from either pressure on edge, or, from bending a flatter board aft of the rear binding), thus making this a good adjustment to make on a board you'd use in softer snow conditions. Now, IF you're slightly bow-legged, You'd want to move the boot cuffs further apart (without widening your stance!), so, you'd want to see if one or the other leg bows out more. If you're fairly Equal in having a bow-legged bone structure, then consider rolling a slight cant on the front foot, Little-Toe Down and Forwards. A friend of mine, who's a Level 3 AASI Instructor, is quite bow-legged at his right (rear) leg, so he rides Cateks with a cant that rolls out+down at the little toe, but he does also use a bit of heel lift to 'post' off of when pumping through turns. Please consider using a full-length mirror, and view you, in the boots, on the board, from both sides, and from head-on. Go through the range of motions you'd use while riding. Look for positions of imbalance, where you cannot affect an opposite, corrective movement. Also note if any board deformation occurs from a fairly neutral upper-body position (this would show a bias in one edge, a twist of the board, or a bend in the length that is unwanted). Re-read Erik's note on the BTS springs. I think that might be a boot-mechanical issue that's resolvable with only a few extra pieces that better position the springs (and/or, stiffer lower springs?). Or, ditch the BTS, and use the old 5-position forward lean slider for a positive rear-lean setting? However you go about this, do the changes One At A Time, thus, you can correlate what-did-what, and create a foundation for solving the imbalance issue you're having.

I don't think it's that the heel is in the binding? I think that the arbor-pressed insert in the shell is able to spin, leaving one screw still holding on...

A 'Vitelli' turn is now, a "euro carve"... Serge Vitelli was doing these way before most anyone else, but doing them with a fairly large dose of inclination, not with a lot of use of extension/retraction or pronounced angulation (he also rode a pretty narrow stance, highly angled, and often on Asymmetrical carving boards). At times he'd look like he just 'fell over', yet would pop back up on his feet between turns. Putting your body mass that far away from the board is a 'risky' move for a Racer, but results in a very stylish turn that looks a lot like a single-ski Waterskier doing large-offset pylons. As for 'extension/retraction', and lots of Angulation, look up the 'carvemaster challenge' vid. CMC pretty much is able to put a huge amount of pressure to the edge at will (or not, if he wishes) by using the angulation to keep his body mass near the curve-line that the board uses on the snow. This allows for great adaptability, edge awareness, and thrust control. You can find my ramblings on such things on freecarve dot com, but there the topic/forum selections are limited, and using the 'search' is recommended (and, even then, you may not what you thought you might..).

Go to using more heel lift from the bindings! Try flat up front, and 4-or-5 degrees at the rear. Again, try a tad bit of canting from the binding. As for the boot cuff, I have used a thin, 1-1/2" rubber washer between the cuff and shell to help keep the cuff from sliding outward or downwards at the hinge-point. Thus, when the hinge bolt is tightened, it stays snug.

PM me as to the rider's weight, and athletic ability. I may have an option or two.

That, that, just looks, Chilling! Brrrr.

Italian Marc, please consider looking for a Jones Hovercraft. It'll ride the deep+fluffy very nicely, yet let you play in-bounds with decent carving on the groomers. When my Tankers get retired, a Hovercraft will likely be the 'short-board' replacement (but, my 172 Tanker is doing rather well in it's second decade!).

Here, I disagree, again. A tight radius board can do great laid-over carves, BUT, the rider needs to be quick enough to change-up, and re-direct. Stiffness, though, with the boards themselves is another issue altogether. Few boards out today, in a decent softboot width, can actually hold on when tasked with carving up past 70* to the snow. There, a board like my old (post '03, to '07) Reto Rad-Airs would do nicely, provided you don't get boot drag. Speaking of such, I noted that those red,white, and blue Burton bindings in the video, did Not have the highbacks rotated at the hinge to a better position of having the mid-aimed hinge pushed forwards, and the tail-aimed hinge point pushed back towards the board's edge. Also, the rear forward lean was set very low. Truly not how I would do things. But, as I've said, everyone is built, and moves, a tad differently...

You need a stronger board! Go get a Hazelwood, but made 20% thicker, and of Hickory and Red Oak.

The IBEX/Burton would be the best bet, just because of the "fit" tween boot + binding. I use a 'variety' of screws on the the mounting disks, just to make a prospective thief need to change driver bits (that extra 6-7 seconds, under a camera, foils those who 'unscrew' bindings and leave them hanging on the lock) . Your boot size, and overall bulk and muscle strength, well, Bombers are likely your better bet for aggressive riding. look also for CATEK bindings, as they are (when set correctly, ie, with the cant/tension screws tightened equally against the the main post screw) very robust, and also quite adjustable in regards to Lift/Cant, so, then, very comfortable once 'set right'. With F-2's, understand that they (like many others) use fixed cants/lifts, but are 'malleable' by way of making your own 'little' shims/cants to perfect your stance. I still do not like how the F-2 fits with many boots, as it often leaves a gap of more than 1/16", which, in Racing, means lost leverage, and, perhaps a safety risk. SG's re-vamp of the design may prove out as better, but, I haven't personally seen a pair yet Keep your eye open, btw, for Drake plate bindings. And, they bolt right onto F-2 metal baseplates.

I actually wasn't trying to 'aim' this at You... I have only seen snippets of your riding, which is where the 'turtle' comment came from. But, in any case, you're Canadian, so, AASI's riding model has no bearing. You definitely EXCEED the progression for carved turns, as do most who post here. As for style, most also do not ride using the techniques expounded by AASI, and thus, most have a level of "style" that's simply unacknowledged by the Instructors own institution. So, my apologies, Neil.

So, this is April, 2017; Any interest in these potential items; A Burton 165cm Swallowtail Cruzer, with 1990 Soft-[ 3-strap] Bindings, but, also the availability of a Cant and old Vari-plate toe/heel RacePlates on the old Cage/block system.I have other, older, Burton boards for consideration. Kept them for my kid, but, times SUCK!

Sorry, Neil, so much went on right Over your head, in the day... Sue, she CONTROLLED PSIA, thus, any Rider who wished to excel, and, thus, be legally able to teach the Rest Of You of how IT'S DONE... Gordon Robbins even had to deal with this, as did , much later, even Neville Burt, Brian Spear, so, we all came to the realization that this one (and a few collabberators) Individual had grasped control of the Progression for RIDING, based on her best PSIA Ski-Model for turning performance! Sorry, but, even YOU had exceeded that (albeit, in 'turtle mode?)by a decent good bit! So,, I gave up trying to fix this. Carve on, limply, please, as not to excite the AASI/PSIA with stuff like gettin' low, nor "hands-on-the-snow: style.. It's just NOT KOSHER, So, Stop It!!! Already!! Stoppit!!! Sue did NOT APPROVE of this ADVANCE in Ideals, I'm Sure of it!! STOPPP!!!!!

Bring It!! It'll only GROW!!! Coach it well, and you are ON!! Good Luck, from the Old Guard !!

I have an older ['89] Sims 1711 Blade/Racing board, that takes pretty much only Sims Bindings of the era (these are Jeff Grell highbacks, used from '83 thru '91 by Sims/Vision), although I have one pair of Funky bases drilled to fit Sims boards. The older Sims [and Funky's, and Barfoots, and Kempers} all suffered from the 'wrap' idea in the highback, where the curvature of the highback wasn't enough material strength to deal with carved turns, nor heelside impacts off of jumps. It's a very COMMON Failure. Now, this board sat dormant in my quiver for 6 seasons [and, those that know me, know, my boards don't "SIT", they're Ridden!] because of the Highbacks being unreliable. I have fixed that, and, hey, here, I offer you a FIX ... Luv you all, but, you all are too greedy in sucking up my know-how. So, yeah, I got it, may you all somehow figure out how to pay me for the inspiration, or direct info... But, it's quick, easy, and makes your vintage Sims (or like model of board) go like heck! Bye!

Style is, a form of derivative Technique. Use correct, but 'Pure' "Technique', and you look a bit 'robotic', or staid in overall body poise. I've seen "PSIA" Skiers do this to themselves again and again trying to conform to the "Ideal" form that was in SUE's HEAD... Yeah, luck with THAT! Steve Sherman probably was the best victim of that mental abuse. Bullying, done by prescription on Skis against good skiers.And, that bullying came from a smallish women who couldn't ski 3/4's of what she advocated?! Not a FAN! So, I decided in '92 to not quite ride as demanded by the ELITE. Why? Well, Hell, by THEN, I had been on Snowboard 14 Years. Frack Them!! Riders like Graham, Kelly, Bauer, Nerva, Jose, Karol, Heingartner, the Coghlans, Kidwell, Sanders, Seaone, Dowd, Zellers (x2),Burt, and Barfoot himself had made MY MIND UP as to just what 'STYLE' was, and how it intersected with "technique"... Draw your own conclusions , but, know that this fight is very old. If you're 'stylish' while getting your specific move done right, then, you Nailed the Technique! If you managed to run a race course fast with great form and Technique, Great, You STYLED IT! It is NOT more COMPLICATED than that, despite SUE's Protestations... Short, chubby chicks, should NOT be in charge of all of Ski-thought-instruction [this is not a sexist, racist, nor weight-compared comment!], unless they have also surfed powder on a snowboard... My Backhill is sitting, ready-to-go, as it has been since '80.

Wow! and, again, I wish I wasn't broke! Nice all-mountain ripper!

OMG!! Wow! So dang pissed I'm broke!!! You will regret selling this, at some level, but; pass it on to one who can enjoy the ride with respect of just what the board is...

So, the Swoard just slashed, and left?! There's a Gauntlet yet to be dropped here....

Anyone know of 'Shredwood Hoods', from the very early nineties? It had some great 'just off Piste' late-season carving over wind-packed wavelets...Also, I should note Mark Fawcett, or Jeremy Jones (not the Burton Jones, but the Carabasset graduate Jones that now makes boards under his own name), and, Rocket Reeves...