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Found 20 results

  1. Hello folks! I am new to the forum and quite lost. I am by no means a beginner, been riding for 6 years, spend about 20-30 days on mountain - mostly US north east (VT) but some trips out west. I currently ride a Korua Dart 160, which was a game changer for my carving. I am 170-180lbs weight range, 6 ft tall and US 10.5 boot. I had no idea that I was just booting out on my 26cm boards. The dart 160 was a revelation at 28cm waist, for +27/+12 - but still at very deep carves back heelside would boot-out sometimes, I think I can probably avoid this with some fine tuning and maybe going more positive. My main challenge with the Dart was that I could easily overpower it, a bit too much weight on the nose and it would toss me over the handlebars. This led me to finding out about Japanese/korean softboot carvers like this guy - this style of riding is all I ever really want to do on a board, its what I dream of most nights in the summer but I am really struggling to find a suitable first dedicated softboot carver that doesn't break the bank - I have searched these forums as well, please humor me with some directional/guidance on some/any of the below! I presume I need: stiff, hammerhead board, long effective edge north of 120cm, SCR in the 10-14m range, stiff tortionally and stiff length wise, camber and ideally some early rise in the nose to be a bit forgiving. I would prefer not to use riser plates - I have Rome Targa 2018 and Union Force 2017 bindings, both fairly responsive the Targas are quite stiff. Ride insano 10.5 boots. (1) what new boards that wont break the bank would be good for me? Ones I have found: SG Soul 159XT vs 164XT? This Nobile could it work? I'm not sure if "BX" board = a good softboot carving board? are there others like this? OES FR ? but in what size and construction? I heard they dont spring a lot during turns - this looks damn near perfect otherwise I checked Alloy AZX1/DO, and boy I wish they made it in wide they are damn near perfect. Hoping there are some sales or something, even open to demos or older stock...going custom Donek may be the answer later on but hoping to not make an expensive mistake on my first dedicated real carving board. (2) Construction: I have no idea what carbon, kevlar (OES), Titanal do in a board - any suggestions as to whether I should /should not look for? (3) Bonus hail mary question: if you have something that may fit the bill that is getting less love recently and would like to find another caring home for it, please hit me up! (I'm based in NYC area)
  2. SOLD! I am thinning my quiver and selling my Donek Flux 162cm with P-tex topsheet. Asking $500, buyer pays shipping. This board was built in 2016 with stock specs and a white P-Tex topsheet. It is in excellent condition and has seen about a dozen total days on the snow. One minor scratch on the base, very small bumps behind the binding screws, and typical binding marks on the topsheet (from bomber power plates).
  3. Double wide softboot carver. Carbon topsheet. 30cm waist. 14m sidecut. Medium flex, hand flexed. Really good condition with some minor scuffs on the topsheet and some binding marks. SOLD!
  4. I am looking to sell my Salomon Malamute softboots, size 9 US mens. They are in excellent condition, almost no signs of wear. They are from the 2016/2017 season, purchased new at REI and used maybe 12 times or so since. They are just a bit too small for me, I typically wear size 10. These boots are perhaps the stiffest softboots on the market. They also use plastic inserts to increase stiffness, all of which are accounted for and included. The liners are advertised as heat moldable, I had REI mold them once when I purchased. Salomon's current model is almost the same as what I'm selling here, with liners being the biggest difference (no more synching cord on the newer liners) and a different tread pattern on the sole. Also, the orange plastic "powerframe" is light blue on the current model. The current model retails for 399.95 USD. I'm asking 200.00 USD for these, buyer pays shipping. Please reply if interested.
  5. price drop Selling a set of Flow NX2 GT Fusion size LARGE. Includes all the hardware $150-SOLD Will accept PayPal or Venmo, buyer pays shipping -Geoff
  6. Alrightly, let's get into it. Between January and Feburary I purchased a set of Ride Insano's and about a month later Ride Capos. Almost all riding was done at Stevens Pass in WA in all conditions from ice to wet pow, with some in Tahoe at Heavenly and Kirkwood on mostly groomers. I would say I at least got 30 days on the boots and maybe 15 on the bindings. I would be riding these on a variety of boards such as: Lib Tech TRS, Palmer Channel X Ti, US Cadet, Elevated Surfcraft goldstick. I would sometimes use power plates. I'll start with the boots: I love 'em. And it would seem many of my coworkers who ride hard up at Stevens are all about them aswell. For a softboot, they got some mean flex with that plastic tongue, and have decent lateral stiffness. Now, for better or worse they use BOA. On one end, it makes them harder to repair and less customizable, but on the other end it seems to lend to their stiffness. Whenever I use BOA I feel I can really get that boot locked down tight. They use double BOA which is a plus. Their profile is SUPER low and put a lot of other stiff boots to shame - almost looks like you're wearing sneakers. The boot goes up really high, so it's not like a touring boot that sits lower down the leg. Now, one issue I noticed is they don't include a power strap. I feel for a boot this stiff, it would benefit greatly from a strap to make sure that upper portion of the boot is flush with the shin, also to keep the shin pain away; since one thing I did notice, is shin pain, I believe this was due to me riding at lower angles than my hardboots, so that part of my leg wasn't desensitized to that sort of abuse. Throwing my world cup boosters on seemed to help a lot and really stiffen them up even more, so I highly recommend it. Bindings: I originally got some Union Falcors, but the minidisc was a huge disappoint and I was iffy about the carbon so I sold them off. I wanted a metal binding and the Ride Capo answered the call, bonus points for being the same manufacture as my boot - meaning everything fit together excellently. The feel of the bindings was good, and I'd usually pair them up with the power plates, which really allowed me to transmit a lot of force on edge and rival my hardboot riding in many cases. I'd overall say they're a good value pick for a stiff binding and pair excellently with the Insanos. Unfortunately, I ran into a several issues. One of my boards is a 4x4 and the washers that come with the binding are like a 2-in-1 washer, and the holes for the screw are a bit smaller than say burton bindings, so I had to find some lower profile washers. Second, I couldn't rotate the highback as much as I could on my old burton cartels, which was a shame, but this seems to be becoming less and less of a thing with newer bindings, I guess manufactures don't really expect 25+ degree angles. Overall though, I could still get them tilted enough. Third, the rubber on the back of the highback started to wear off. Maybe I'm just mean to my gear? I put some black duct tape over it to stop the wear - also gives the binding this cool "mad max" aesthetic. Fourth, this is the big one, is I had the highback snap on me. I checked the binding and I didn't see any bubbles so I don't think the plastic mold was bad, so I'm not sure what caused the break. I did let a couple people ride my board with the bindings and maybe they're less diligent than I, or I was dun goofed and let the chairlift ruin it. I do ride pretty hard and maybe they didn't appreciate me flying off rollers at Kirkwood at 40mph. Ride has said they'll replace it but I still haven't gotten it, but with COVID-19 I have noticed the supply chains everywhere have been wack. Thanks. Hope this helps some of you out there! I'll upload pics at some point since it's a PITA to move files from my phone to my PC.
  7. Built at the end of the last season for soft boots. Last season I have used the board ~5 times, this season only 1 time, as I exclusively switched to hard boots... Stock edge tune, no damage, almost like new. The board is in storage wax. Specs: Flex for 200lbs Length 170cm Waist 30.7cm SCR 11m Nose and tail are shorter than standard Knapton Twin to increase effective edge. Ask $475 + shipping. Paid 675 + Tax + Shipping SOLD
  8. Burton Driver X Snowboard Boots. Size 12 US. Great Condition. Used only few times. Few very minor normal usage marks. Almost new. No Damage. Very stiff boots for "soft" boots :-). Price $200 + shipping SOLD
  9. 2018 Endeavor Hammerhead 163 - Softboot carving specific Bought "used" from piusthedrcarve on bomberonline/alpinesnowboarder and put about 15 days on it last year and the previous spring. Selling because I managed to drop the 20+ extra pounds I was carrying and am back down to 145ish. Riding it last year at 170 lbs felt like I was already on the lower end of the weight range. I've also gone a little crazy buying gear for me and kiddo and something has to go! I'm happy to answer any questions from a crossover softbooter perspective, but Piusthe rcarve's thoughts are going to be way more informed than my own. The original sales thread links to his reviews. http://forums.alpinesnowboarder.com/topic/46212-sold-endeavor-hammerhead-163-softboot-carving-specific/ Base 9.5/10 no scratches per say, but not 100% pristine. Top sheet 8.5/10 with just a touch of visible rash and mild scratch here and there. Edges are 8.5/10 as they has some sections of superficial rust that ahould disappear with tune. (apparently I was lazy returning from its last trip out) I've only gently tuned it once last year so plenty of edge left. Waist Width: 25.2 cm Length: 163 cm Effective Edge: 138 cm Sidecut: 8-9-10 m Buyer pays shipping from 53716
  10. They really friggin’ hurt. really though other than that. i have a new set of drivers, I like them, sort of. They are better than the old malamutes. So, for a long time most high end boots came in one of two configurations either a hinge type that works better but they are much softer or like the driver where to flex forward it forces the boot to deform this crushes the foot, that shit hurts and it’s because the driver has no hinge. It looks like it’s still this way with most brands.. I’ve had a couple sets of 32s and Burtons that hinge, this is a better design, why the hell cant they just build one with a stiffer tongue? Anyone have an answer to that? Pictured is a hinged design.. I actually forgot I had these boots.
  11. Since its really quiet here i may aswell post a little short clip of me playing about in bulgaria There is more footage of me riding more seriously with better technique but it was taken by friend who was editing it but his health is really not the best right now so im not going to be pushing to get it from him for the time being. ?
  12. Hello there! Let me introduce myself shortly: I'm Tim, mid twenties, Dutch, one-week-a-year freerider. As a job I work with bicycles and for a hobby I like working on cars. Classic Volvo's to be precise. When boarding I like speed. A lot of guys like kickers and parks, but I like cruising or high speed long turns. Sounds like carving. I've always liked the look of hardbooters. Now, a couple of days ago I was a second-hand shop and I found a board. I bought it because it appeared to be my size. With it, I got some question marks. First: the bindings. They are burtons but the only thing I could find was the brand. I have no clue what type. Do they need 'special' shoes from the same era as the bindings or do modern hardboots fit? Could ski-boots fit? Then the board: Its from 1998, that's how much I know. Is this a known board? Underneath the rear binding was a plate which was canted. I haven't seen this earlier. Could someone explain to me why? As you might notice I would really like to learn more. I would also like to get out and ride this pretty piece of vintage! Kind regards, Tim.
  13. So there's a post on reddit with a large amount of the 2018 snowboarding catalogs. Jones' catalog page 2 "Instruments of Stoke" is a great start.... Prior has "new" shape on the BX and FX. Props to Prior for having a complete alpine section in their catalog. Nidecker has a great pg 2 shot as well.
  14. Hi everyone! I've been lurking on your website for some time now and since I recently gave away my snowboarding kit to a friend, I'm looking at getting into carving and more specifically, softboot carving. Thanks for the advice! Background: I'm a 5'10, 150 lbs dude who has been riding in Quebec (smaller mountains with icy conditions) for more than 10 years. My most recent board was a Burton Custom with soft, softboots. I rarely do jumps or ride switch and spend most of my time going fast and pushing my board to try to carve. I recently purchased a "new" 2015-2016 Arbor A Frame after doing some research on your forum as it seems to be a good board to get better at carving and maybe one day commit all the way to hardboot carving. Looking for advice for: 1) Boots: From what I've read, the Burton Driver X or the Ride Insano or the Salomon Malamute are rigid enough softboots that would allow me to carve. Do you guys have any recommendations for the three (3) mentioned or any other softboots? All 3 are in the price range I'm looking for. If possible, I'd also like to use these boots to go ride in powdery conditions (Maybe Japan next year!) and would use the boots with another board. 2) Bindings: So far I've looked into getting the Ride El Hefe (if I can find them in Montreal...!), Ride Capo or Burton Diode. Any advice on these 3 or any other bindings and brands? 3) Power plates: How good should I get at carving before adding the Power plates? And what are the good brands / models for Power plates? 4) Stance / angles: I currently ride with a +20, -3 stance. Should I got +20, +20 to start? I appreciate the tips and advice guys! Hope to see you on the slopes! Mick from Montreal P.S. I've included a pic of my new board and of my dog Roam!
  15. Transworld Business article (some really good pictures of the boot and interface in the article)- http://www.grindtv.com/transworld-business/evolution-of-the-step-in-binding-burtons-chris-cunningham-weighs-in/#MfreG7dw44TMxLb6.97 Another article feature Terje and a short video of him stepping out of them- https://onboardmag.com/snowboard-gear/gear-news-and-previews/new-burton-step-ins-2018.html Burton's unlisted Step-On promo video- Playing with them (Alex Andrews)- Note- I have no affiliation with Burton.
  16. These are 2015 Union Ultras, one of the lightest, if not the lightest softboot binding available. 760 grams compared to 1150 for Burton Cartels. Lightly used. Some paint wear inside the frame and a bit of wear on the inside ankle strap. Stiff, strong, responsive. Carbon fiber high back. $400+ retail. Review here: http://thegoodride.com/snowboard-binding-reviews/union-ultra-2015-2017-snowboard-binding-review/ One caveat - the binding is equipped with 4x2 mini-discs. $200 USD. Shipping $20 USA or Canada. SOLD
  17. Catek FR1 in ok shape 250$ Catek FR1, missing one back lean adjustment stopper 225$ Catek long toe ramps (lordmetroland has first dibs) 50$ Deeluxe LeMans mondo 25-25.5 (i have to verify) 100$ Donek Incline 166? used but still has lots of life left 150$ Oxygen Supercross 164, super fun soft boot carving board 150$ I'll post pictures soon.
  18. For sale is a pair of medium Catek Freeride Pro softboot bindings. They look to be near new. I can't imagine someone having put more than a few days on them. Very few scuffs/scrapes on the aluminum and the Nidecker "carbon" ladders and straps are close to pristine. Includes all hardware and I might have some extra mounting screws and angle set screws. The FRs are burly. They will survive Armageddon, and if you do too, you'll be ripping turns on them throughout the endless winter that's sure to follow. The only thing that makes them "medium" is the size of the toe ramp (full disclosure: I bought these from a non-BOLer to scrounge the large toe ramps from them for my FR2s. The replaced toe ramps are, by far, the most used part on the binding). I seriously thought about keeping them once I saw their condition, but would rather stick to the FR2s, so I'm only having to worry about one set of parts to replace. There's something Road Warrior-ish to owning Cateks. $200 shipped in the continental US.
  19. Hey there, I'm Bart. I'm 38. Living in Poland at this moment. I've always been a dedicated hardbooter, but since I've got family and kids around I had to change a few things... First of all, it turned out that there is no space in the car to take a few boards with all the kids/family junk packed. It also turned out that I can get about 2 hours worth of boarding in the morning - then it's skiing with kids and my wife's turn to enjoy a few carves... My wife loves skiing and snowboarding, so sneaking away for a day or two of fun is out of a question. And I love skiing with my daughter (and hopefully in 3-4 years with my son as well) as much as I love snowboarding. So leaving kids behind is out of the question. I had to look for a solution: single board for all snow conditions - most likely powder or groomers in the morning allowing me to do what I like the most - carving those stupid-steep slopes and at the some time providing some fun on the crowded flat 'family' slopes The only solution I found feasible was to become a softboot carver and I am actually enjoying it. No, really. Here's a sample of my riding (2 years ago - my first season as softboot carver): I think I'm getting smother now: Cheers Bart
  20. 9.5/10 LibTech 180 Grocer. A classic longboard, stiff enough to carve, long enough to float through the deepest powder</SPAN></SPAN> Lib Technologies Grocer Snowboard </SPAN> Next time the snow is elbow-deep, strap yourself into the Lib Tech Grocer Snowboard for the smoothest, floatiest ride of the season. This super-long, powder board keeps you afloat with a 180cm length and 262mm waist, while the low-maintenance TNT polymer base provides a fast ride. A directional, progressive sidecut allows easy turn initiation in the wide-open fluff so you can cruise with confidence. This board is designed to keep you on top of manky Cascade conditions, and is best ridden by aggressive riders. Under the Custom Wood topsheet is a honeycomb-wood Air Core which increases overall board strength and decreases weight for improved edge control and flotation. Everyone loves a big powder day, and the Grocer delivers the milk and cookies. </SPAN> Bottom Line: A massive powder board that brings home the groceries. </SPAN> Tech Specs:</SPAN> Length:</SPAN> 180cm </SPAN> Effective edge:</SPAN> 139cm </SPAN> Waist width:</SPAN> 262mm </SPAN> Sidecut radius:</SPAN> either 11.9 or 11-9 VSR </SPAN> Stance width:</SPAN> 55cm </SPAN> Stance setback:</SPAN> 2cm </SPAN> Core material:</SPAN> Honeycomb-wood Air Core </SPAN> Base material:</SPAN> TNT polymer </SPAN> Recommended Use:</SPAN> Freeride I pulled this out because I dont get up to the hills enough. It is in great shape from only light use. Bottom still has lots of structure, Base has been cleaned and leveled. Edges compleately tuned before putting away, Base and edges have thick layer of general temp wax. All care done by hand no power tools (other then the iron for the wax) She is ready to ride or you can scrape and buff the wax off until you are happy. $390 shipped CONUS Canadians a bit more. obo questions ronin42 (at) yahoo (dot) com </SPAN>
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