ursle

Let's make this really simple (KISS) Only think about pressuring both ankles on both front and rear turns, get as much pressure as you can from your ankles pushing your boots. After lots of thinking about your ankles...on the front edge, think about pushing your hips to the snow, if you've ever windsurfed, you push your hips toward the mast when you lean back with the wind at your back, I know, opposite sides of the turn, but...try it on your front edge, don't reach for the snow. On the rear edge, as mentioned, take the hand opposite of that (rear) edge and put it in front of you....on the opposite knee, or keeping the hands in a gunslinger type position, move it forward, if you lose the rear edge, drop your butt more, and move the hand forward. Look at jacks avatar, rear edge, butt dropped, great carved turn, hard snow.

I bought these more than five years ago, the guy that made them was in Yugoslavia and they arrived via usps, ha, the packag had been torn apart so many times, I found it humorous, put them in the "27" AF700's with brand new Zipp lines, never used them, intended to use them in powder. Not thread jacking, just humorous

Just your front foot, make incremental adjustments, no hitting trees.

So, if both boots are tipped to far forward because of either their forward lean or by raisers underneath, you're going to have a great rear edge, and be balanced, and vice-versa, it both boots are tipped to far backwards, with boot lean adjustment or raisers, you're going to have a front edge that is immediate, but your rear edge is going to be a struggle, get where I'm going? Fine tuning the front foot has more effects on the front edge. I like to set up for the rear edge, it matters to me that the board come around well on the rear edge, especially the rear boot, most ride with a more upright front boot, and when you go for the front edge, little tweaks to the front boot are the difference between being comfortably balanced or to much front edge, err, it engages so much you aren't balanced, cateck binding are great for setting up balance points for front and rear edges, and you need hard snow, flat hard snow that's hard to balance on, to Dial in the balance point, heck, you can ride a no-board in powder. I cant my front binding outward so I have to get my hips off the board before the edge engages, otherwise it's impossible to ride cat tracks, I'm always on the rear edge and headed for the woods, fine tuning binding placement on the board to learn the effect is good. Personally, I move my rear foot toward the front and my front foot toward the rear when I can (wider boards) to even up the hips or align them more with the shoulders, I run high angles and don't want to twist much, I prefer to face forward, thin boards 16.1mm are what they are, no room for adjustment, booting out isn't an option. If you have pain on the outside of an ankle or the inside of an ankle, slight canting of that boot to move the cuff in the direction of the pain works, adjust in small increments. Same with the front or rear of the ankles, rear foot ankle is painful in the front, tip that boot forward more.....

They weigh about the same, the F2's have the ability to give any amount of lift, and any amount of cant, and the way they are adjusted to the boot for tightness, can be extremely sloppy or very tight, ala old sloppy burton bindings, plus they are dampened by the front and rear pads, under the toe and heel. The sidewinders sit on a poly pad that has three durmoeters, err, colors, the amount of cant and the amount of toe or heel lift is finite. The bombers are bombproof.

Let me rephrase, of the three contact points only one locks the board, the other two let it slide, to be more specific, I lock it to the rear and float it on the front, so it allows the board to bend naturally, just like apex plates work. Vs boards that lock both front and rear.

I'm from Missouri.... Ok, my point was to take the Vist out of the category of plates secured to the board at both ends. Nothing wrong with a plate simply raising the rider off the board and dampening the ride and transmitting the riders energy to the edge, not squirreling it away twisting the board underfoot (pedaling), but it doesn't help the board bend naturally.

Thank you for that, as we can see, unlike the Vist and apex plates that allow the board to flex while remaining stiff, err' in their original shape, the allflex plate bends with the board, yet still isolates the feet from twisting the board as the rider switches edges (pedaling), I've gots to get one of them. Both the Vist and Apex plates are locked to the board at the rear and slide at the front, allowing the board to bend fully with no crimping that happens without a plate, the bindings without a plate make a flat spot in the middle of the board, why would anyone carve without a plate?

Boot pro at the bottom of the access road to Okemo is your shop, I just picked up my MK, it had the factory grind and near the edges the ptex was raised by the edge serrated metal, they sounded like a zzzzazzzzza on ice, and the board was slow, and the grind was great, the edges are 3-1, and it's inexpensive, fixing the bottom is an easy job when you've done it hundreds of times, the skimd used to do a grind that leaned from the right to the left, their (boot pro) winterSteiger leaves a beautiful symmetrical grind, if they cut a chunk it and weld in a new one all the better, I tried Okemo on wed, the grooming was atrocious, like they spread water with a zamboni then smoothed it. The day before I was at Sunapee, where it was fabulous, go figure.

http://www.yyzcanuck.com/product-category/parts/binding-parts/ All the F2 parts available, I suspect it’s the round piece that covers the screws, nor the cant lift kits, yea YYZ

Warren Witherall, Yes, my wife was taught by a disciple of his, in ‘78 she was the Rockey Mt. woman’s downhill champion, by a large margin, thanks Warren. We used to race Thursday afternoons at Ascutney, Bobby Cocherin was always there, anyway, out of 250 people, I always came in 251, one day she gave me an exercise, standing, pick up the left ski, push the right knee as close to the ground as possible, ride it. Then switch legs, that night she handed me Warrens book “How the racers ski”, the next race at Ascutney I broke the top 25. Last time I skied I was at Okemo, John Neil (not a sandbagger) was the pacesetter, made three runs, 6 5 4 were my handicaps, thanks Waren, and Rest In Peace. The next day a horse I was mounting bucked, dislocated my right hip, 20 years ago, my first thought was “I’m now an alpine snowboarder”, got a 7 nastar off pat at Okemo. Whats your nastar?

Good input, so I grabbed the digital caliper, and on the board in hand all the blocks are 16.2mm, .63”, I run two In back and one in front, bought several of the replacement’s from YYZ, so thanks for making me stand corrected. i love the abilility to fine tune the stance.

How bout adding stance distance, a 16” stance requires one height of toe heel lift, a 22” stance another. And stride, a 50-55 stride (distance between) is much different than a 60-65 stride. F2 offers two size lifts, I’m guessing 4 and 6 degrees, on my front a 6 lift and one cant to the outside, on my rear one 4 and one 6 lifts no cant, and my UPZ are both leaned forward max, stride is 22+”, 60-65 on all boards, well not the 16.1 executor;) All that matters is being balanced while tipping the board over as far as possible. Dont watch the rider, watch the board.

Ice fine tunes your setup. the upz boots are a little heel high, what are your forward lean Characteristics? Having a great heelside and no toe side sounds like, well the boots are leaned forward and being upz with high heels, so you lean back against the boots, great balance, you lean forward and don’t get the edge engagement needed, I’d set up with the boots more upright, lose a little rear edge engagement, gain a little front edge engagement , fine tuning for ice. a set of cateck bindings would be excellent here for fine tuning balance on ice.

@Corey, lmk if I should pm you for “permission” but I find this a fascinating subject and exchanging information is what goes on. The bottom of the ocean is more of a "sunken place" than it used to be. In recent decades, melting ice sheets and glaciers driven by climate change are swelling Earth's oceans. And along with all that water comes an unexpected consequence — the weight of the additional liquid is pressing down on the seafloor, causing it to sink. Consequently, measurements and predictions of sea-level rise may have been incorrect since 1993, underestimating the growing volume of water in the oceans due to the receding bottom, according to a new study. [7 Ways the Earth Changes in the Blink of an Eye] Scientists have long known that Earth's crust, or outer layer, is elastic: Earlier research revealed how Earth's surface warps in response to tidal movements that redistribute masses of water; and 2017's Hurricane Harvey dumped so much water on Texas that the ground dropped 0.8 inches (2 centimeters), the Atlantic reported. In the new investigation, researchers looked at more long-term impacts to the seafloor. They evaluated how much the shape of the ocean bottom may have changed between 1993 and 2014, taking into account the amount of water added to the ocean from liquid formerly locked up on land as ice. Previous research into seafloor stretching had omitted that extra water, the scientists wrote in the study. To do that, they reviewed approximations of mass loss on land, as ice melted and drained into the oceans, and compared that to estimates of sea volume changes. They found that around the world for two decades, ocean basins deformed an average of 0.004 inches (0.1 millimeter) per year, with a total deformation of 0.08 inches (2 mm). However, there were distinct regional patterns to the seafloor's bending and stretching, and the amount of sag in certain parts of the ocean bottom could be significantly higher — as much as 0.04 inches (1 mm) per year in the Arctic Ocean, for a total of 0.8 inches (20 mm), the study authors reported. As a result, satellite assessments of sea-level change — which don't account for a sinking ocean bottom — could be underestimating the amount that seas are rising by 8 percent, according to the study. The accuracy of future sea-level estimates could be notably improved if the sinking of the ocean floor were incorporated into the calculations, "either based on modeled estimates of ocean mass change, as was done in this study, or using more direct observations," the scientists concluded. The findings were published online Dec. 23 in the journal Geophysical Research Letters. Original article on Live Science.

I had the first version of the Vist plate, it was locked on one end and slid on the other, when you turned and bent the board, the board moved away from the plate, there was never any friction, the Vist plate was great, it dampened the ride and allowed the board to bend evenly, now I’m on an apex plate, same thing but tighter.

Ha, I’m thinking about my last pair of bombers, there was an Allen screw to adjust the distance the bail could sit off the boot, well, the clasp is now the distance, they look great, they have snapped onto the boot and are secure, ride ‘me and enjoy.

Body armor is a personal decision, I wear wrist guards, a jacket with elbow, shoulder, rib and back bone pads, padded shorts with hard white plastic on the hips and tailbone, knee pads (for warmth) and helmet, on cold days I sweat, on warm days I wear ultra light weight versions, always the wrist guards, it’s not getting run into it’s hitting a tree or lift tower...things happen fast. Err, when I road bike I don’t wear gloves;)

Ha, on my fourth Prius, it’s a plug-in, for the 7500 miles so far I’m averaging 97.3mpg, and if you’ve never driven electric...100% torque from a stop, it handles better than my last two Audi’s, an A6 I dropped with sport springs and shocks and a A4 avant. Distronic cruise control, lane keeping, heated seats and heated steering wheel, until you look in a Prius you don’t know how big they are. So, I wear my crocs to the hill and my feet don’t sweat on the way, dry socks when I put on my boots. I don’t see boot gloves on the list, but yea, boot gloves below 20 degrees;) And full body armor.

Boot gloves here also, conformable liners are cold, so are zips, I put the toe warmers under the shell over the liner, works great, then boot gloves, makes the boots flex better in extreme cold.

I went to super foot at killington, they did some orthotics and then foamed me with the conformable liner, almost ten years ago, cold liners but the heel is still stuck like glue, I had a few pair already from various places, I put them in everything, bicycle shoes, golf shoes, roller skate boots, of course the UPZ’s, and last but not least, horse riding boots, when you ride a horse your feet are always weighted, and the soles spread your weight evenly. the super foot store takes blanks and forms them, not familiar with superfeet, but if they are worn with out heat molding they are just a step in the correct direction, not an actual orthotic.

Welcome, cin Just get your self setup on your board so you can get it up on edge, if you’ve never carved a ski or board it’s a new experience, tip it on edge and ride it, then switch edges, you should be asking questions about setup. If I were you I’d stick to a slope you’re comfortable with until you can turn the board uphill at the end of the turn on both edges, sounds easy, try it...then, when you can link turns with speed, move to a more progressive run and start over, no need to get in trouble and get hurt, lots of hours figuring out how the board reacts will be a good foundation. Actually, hard boots and carving board are the best way to handle chop, just carve right through it, put the board on edge and it will carve anything, well, except actual hard ice Hugh bumps...when you start getting your head near the ground at speed, your addicted. Dont get on the Kessler until you can carve the other boards, the Kessler will carve anything but it has a 15-17 foot radius turn and until your comfortable making the board come around, and know it will come around, the Kessler will just go faster and faster, skidding turns isn’t carving and makes for bad habits. I was a skier and figured out how to carve skis, when I switched to an alpine snowboard I knew what the carve would feel like but had to figure out how to position my body to get the board on edge, while comfortably balanced, and I noticed that on skis I never really got warm, they didn’t require a lot of work, well as much work as an alpine snowboard, when I ride I can’t believe how much energy it takes, easily 10 times more than skiing, so eat and hydrate, especially in the beginning, err, if I were instructing you how to cross country ski I’d take you out for a half hour, a new activity is exhausting, after five times out it’s nothing. Softboots don’t have the grip on the edge of the board that hardboots do, it’s way different, all the energy, torque, you put into the board goes right to the edge, wow, when you carve a tight turn on hard snow...not dissing softboots, just pointing out the difference.

How close to the ocean are they stored, salt air is funny stuff. Another bomber plate shouldn’t be to hard to find, moving to F2’s isn’t bad, if you hate ‘em, you can sell ‘em, bomber parts will be showing up.

In 74 I moved to Colorado, copper was going to be two years old, got a job mid mt in a cafeteria, had a pair of cork liner Look, Boots with low backs, took six bastard files (actually a friend, mark jones, the first world champ hot dogger) taped them three together and attached them to the boots, wore a one piece snow suit and skied fresh powder every day, some days up to my breast bone, in deep snow, I would lean forward and to the side, then lean back, surface, lean forward to the other side and lean back, wow...I also put bandaids on my goggles to keep the snow out but allow them to breath, bandaids to seal them to my face, not on my skin, the next year..voila somebody came out with goggles trimmed with foam. The spoilers allowed me to lean back, just like the fronts of hardboots allow you to do toe sides without lifting your butt in the air. When you’re on your rear edge your spoilers are supporting you.....every inch counts;)