michael.a

Trailertrash, please look up Poe's law. You'd find that the correct angles are 27.38 front 24.587 rear ;) Anything else you come in 5th place. Nick, what you asked for does not exist.

That's phenomenal that you stuck it out that long. It's so weird that a hill where a Canadian won a gold medal in snowboarding would be so... anti-hardboot.

Here's a second voice. Do absolutely anything to attend, you should make this your top priority. And it looks like you already have a bunch of guys willing to help you start. My first two years hardbooting were very lonely and miserable, there is just so much to learn, so much self-doubt, so many questions, having someone experienced just set up your bindings and boots can save you years of pain and difficulty.

Edit: looking for only two 6 degree discs

Deeluxe boots are identical to Raichles. You've got good boots as long as they fit you well. Dont rely on the same set of holes to indicate if the boot is centered. Eyeball it. Raichle/Deeluxe boots have a little arrow on the shell. When setting up your heel/toe bails make sure that arrow stays in the absolute middle of the binding. Here's a TD3 setup video from Bomber https://youtu.be/TE1JBBw-8zo?t=5m30s Fin does it weird though, he first fits the boot to get a good fit and then talks about centering, which itself will require you to readjust everything again.

Is your boot centered on the binding? Cause it looks waayyy to far forward. Id start with that and then size the sole blocks to fit.

Snowmatic beat me to it. Also, go ahead and join the German hardbooting forum frozen-backside.de, there is anEnglish subforum but there is one called Shops, ask there as well.

Will you be in Munich?

Take her to one of the thermal spa's located nearby and you'll be a king in her eyes :)

Its comparable to your typical east coast resort give or take some aspects. Nearby accommodation is incredibly expensive so most sleep in Liptovsky Mikolas and do the 30 min drive. Nearby parking fills up very fast, if you dont make it in time you gotta park like a solid mile away from the lift and wait for an overcrowded ski bus. Why not Austria, at the minimum?

Tried the 180 and 162 w/ plates in 2012 at Carving Masters. Very stiff and damp boards, completely race-oriented, I felt they were not suitable for freecarving. However, lots might have been changed so please take my comments with a grain of salt. I would recommend asking for more info on http://hardsnowboardingitalia.forumup.it/

That just killed. I think Ryan is on bomberonline BTW.

Don't forget to check out the wares of Oxess and Virus and Pureboarding, which I know are available in the US. Unfortunately you have very limited to access to the European goodies of Plasma, Pogo, Goltes etc, which I would consider worthy contenders.

As no surprise to anyone, theyve been banned from competition. Quite shameful, and its only natural for the next step to involve rescinding suspect medals and accolades. Hoping that snowboarding was free of such corruption but honestly doubt it. http://edition.cnn.com/2015/11/13/sport/russia-iaaf-olympics-doping-report/index.html

If I was going the extremecarving route I'd worry about using regular bails, otherwise get the step ins. You will save so much time getting in and out and at the beginner stage when falling over and messing up is the de jure standard. I never really noticed the more rigid interface of step ins, but I weigh 90 kg and am 187 cm. As for F2s or Bomber either route is perfectly fine. You wont notice the minor differences between the two at this stage in riding, maybe after a couple of years. I think the board might cause you far more problems than any boot/binding setup unless you bought it to also use off piste as thats a big one.

I'm happy with my Dakine Double Ski Bag, even had it loaded with 12 boards inside plus miscellaneous gear and based on my research it's the only bag that'll fit my 200 cm Tanker. Only flew with it once but after a couple years of moderate use still looks like new. Definitely get wheels if you're going to carry a few boards + boots inside and pack your boards in their own bags. I like the Douchebag concept except for the name and price tag. I paid $140 for the Dakine and I think with some hunting anyone can bag one for the same price.

If it helps any, look at the world cup. I'd say the good majority ride in 15+ year old boots.

Ask the poster above you if he's for hire :) Also: http://www.bomberonline.com/instructor-search/ Or wait until ECES or some other event (I think Pureboarding shows up every year as well) comes arond.

Lessons. And if you have money leftover, more lessons. Do an instructor course (even in softboots).

The short answer: yes. The higher performance comes at a cost in durability. While the first metal boards were quite susceptible to early failure, particularly delaminations and distortions to the titanal layer (most infamously at the front binding), you can say that's been worked out and any issues today are purely based on manufacturer build quality. Nonetheless, anecdotal evidence (such as mine) says that a metal board requires far more care than a glass board and can be easily damaged rendering it unrideable. It's a tough call. If going metal I'd recommend going new as I think any defects are bound to appear within the first season of riding.

Like all moldable liners they should work no problem. The only thing Im wondering about is their stiffness. I can imagine Full Tilt contracted these liners to be much softer than your standard liner.

Lowrider, I value your opinion as Ive been reading your posts since day one. But please name names as the US/Canadian penchant for vague criticisms is maddening (this is parallel to what Neil wrote). Say what you don't like about the plate X, just be direct. A lot of us have to make their choices on what to buy and try in today's life on what's written on the internet and the last thing we need is "named after a reptile" as some cryptic reference. Because I'm guessing you mean the Gecko plate from Kessler and it was the one plate system I was considering to buy. I want to hear why you think it cant cut the mustard.

10-4, the use of different liners and a capable spring system (with two different sets of spring stiffness) has made my Deeluxe boots into something truly universal. For powder and choppy conditions I use the old red Raichle thermoliners which are super soft and swap in the soft spring set. For groom I use an ultrastiff pair of Intuition liners and stiff springs, like riding totally different boots.

After many years of trial and error, my setup is: One pair of hardboots Two pairs of liners (soft and very hard) Three boards (172 all mountain board, 185 carving or GS board, a universal powder board) Id take the softboots only if there was something really softboot specific I wanted to do like teach or hike out a bit further.

Looking back, I wish I used 70% of what I spent on boards and equipment on lessons. Not just general riding time, but actual lessons and stuff like carving camps and carving sessions. Not that many to choose from but look into it.