michael.a

The reasons are: some prefer the internal twist in F2s afforded by the plastic toe/heel block construction, Bomber bindings are very difficult to procure in Europe (where let's be honest, is where the real racing happens) and almost twice as expensive (you can pick up new F2s for 100 euro over here), and the somehwat limited cant/lift profile. The last two reasons I was given from racers using F2's CNC Titanium bindings.

Do confirm with the seller what liner is included. From personal experience a store listed their boots as 700T but came with the regular liner. A heat moldable liner (thermoformable) is magic for your feet if properly cooked and fitted.

I rode in Heads for many years before sqitching to Deeluxes for unreated reasons. I recommend getting ahold of a spring system like the BTS or Arnaud's ACSS, did wonders, or, at the minimum, change the tongues to the orange ones. Next step is the liner, while the stock one isnt bad, a thermo wraparound works much better.

Isopropyl alcohol aka rubbing alcohol. I use 95% diluted down to a 50/50 mix, soak, then air dry. Iso alcohol is the disinfectant and odor eliminator in your lysols, pinesols and fabreezes. Buy a gallon for a couple of bucks and it has a billion uses. I also use it for car detailing, de-icing, kitchen/bathroom cleaning etc etc etc. Never had much luck with the freezer option. Vinegar stinks. Washing machine sounds a tad rough on liners but never tried.

So you guys think a small nut (maybe with a washer) and nut is enough? I weigh 100 kg BTW. I was thinking that I need to use a half moon-shaped washer so it'll lock in if you know what I mean.

So this is the third or fourth time I blew out my ankle rivet. I did a search on the forum and I saw someone came up with a washer/screw combo to replace that crappy half moon thing but I dont have access to a grinder and/or CNC machine. Ive been getting them fixed by my local ski shop but Im positive after the umpteenth repair I could buy my own rivet tool just that I had no idea what I need, can anyone help? What do I think to fix this and hopefully difficult to access buckle rivets? The SVST tool doesnt seem like it would work.

Yea studs are another option but overkill if you arent driving in snow all the time. Id also add that the age of the tires is quite important, the rubber hardens over time making it less effective. So when buying new make sure they were actually produced not too long ago, or buying used 2/3 years max. I do not drive in winter tires over 5 years of age.

Carpet carving. Its only good for static measures.

Toyos are fine. I drive in hardcore winter conditions so Ive got lots of exp with winter tires. First, if you are serious about driving in the winter then forget about all-weathers. The best all weather will pale in comparison with the worst winter tire. However, if you live in an area with mild winters (with daytime temps constantly above 7 C) then Id go the all weather route, as high temps will result in premature wear, and invest in a set of good chains. Second, Id recommend getting a second set of rims (with the same ET) for your winter or winter-biased all-weather tires. Why? Because you DONT want to use the same tire size as you use in the summer, youll probably even find such a recommendation in your cars manual. If you dont have it see the tire pressure sticker on the drivers door, itll have all the manfuactuer recommended tire sizes or check a forum dedicated to your car. I recommend going down one size (so 17 to 16") and choosing a narrower and taller tire (conservative ratio is go down 10% width and up 10% aspect ratio). You need to check a tire calculator to see how far you can go size wise and also how much the speedometer will be off. Getting a narrower tire is more important than going taller. Im more extreme as I demand maximum performance in the snow, so one car runs 15" 205/55 in the summer but 14" 185/70 in the winter and the other 17" 235/45 summer but 215/65 16" in the winter.

Beginner? East coast? 20 years soft boot experience but Im guessing no formal instruction? Yea, you're looking at a slalom board. Look around for a stock older SL board in the 166 or 163 range from the likes of F2, Nidecker, Oxygen, Volkl, Rossignol, Burton, Hot. Absolute max is something in the very low 170s with a sidecut no bigger than 12 maybe 13 meters. Boots are your biggest issue and main priority. There is lots of advice on how to measure your feet, decide if you want to go right away in buying boots with custom thermoformable liners. More expensive but pretty much guaranteed fit and comfort. Next up are bindings, decide if you want regulars or step ins. Step ins are a bigger investment (you need to buy special heels as well) but well worth it for the small hills around PA/NJ. Only two choices, either Bomber TD2/TD3s or F2.

Nope sold, sorry

It def does stiffen up the glove but Im at a loss on how to describe it. With the PU I used I can normally articulate my fingers to close buckles, but its now impossible to open zippers.

That's awesome, did you do the sewing yourself? That takes a great deal of more skill than just slopping on some PU like me :) Respect! BTW, good news for those looking for a suitable PU easily available in the states, its from Smooth On, resin PMC 780. Some of the fellas from Velvet have used it with success. http://www.smooth-on.com/Urethane-Rubber-an/c6_1117_1148/index.html

BUMP

Nope. Buy a spring system for your boots (BTS or ACSS). Spend whatever remaining money you have on instruction.

No doubt about it, the easiest solution to all of this is just not touch the snow :) And I confirm that they stiffen up the glove and make almost any task impossible to perform. BTW, a couple of guys have started using "sliders", basically plastic cut outs tied with straps over the wrist and forearms. First, no need to smear goop on our gloves, second they offer additional protection especially since you now "slide" on the forearm and keep the wrist and fingers up and above the snow, and third since they are so smooth they pretty much just slide and not drag over the snow. You can also use ski arm guards if you want something more "pro" but they do not go over the wrist.

This write up is for those who have not yet heard about applying a flexible polyurethane (PU) finish to your gloves to promote durability. Credit where credit is due, I think the first person to do this hails from Russia (check it: http://snegorez.ru/forum/index.php?showtopic=423), while I got my info from Abrax, Gienmo, Borek, and Zbyszek here in Poland. This method is gaining over the other alternatives here in Europe, namely duct tape, Sikaflex (which I have used numerous times), Plasti Dip, Bison, Shoegoo, and other coatings. The benefits of PU are numerous: during application it is quite viscous (compared with Sikaflex) and you have up to 30 min working time, it allows for very precise application if you correctly mask the surrounding surface, it self-levels to form a nice even coating that is very smooth and quite slick (limiting drag), it looks far better than the other alternatives (especially if you dye it to match the surface color), and finally and most important, it is extremely resistant to wear. Currently there are extremecarvers who have applied PU on their gloves, jackets, and coats three years ago and have NO visible wear. The negatives are: finding the right PU, cost, and (relative) application difficulty. I have no idea what suitable PU you can buy in the states. Our group decided on Biresin U1303A resin from Sika mixed with their U1402B hardner. Without any pigment, this will leave a milky white finish. Honestly, it looks like a white goo was spilled over you. Another alternative is Biresin U1406A + U1406B as it is more clear with an amber tint. I recommend just buying a few grams of paint pigment that match whatever you want to protect. If you are buying PU the seller should be able to recommend what pigment would work the best. Issue #1 with PU is with the minimum order. We had to buy a couple of kilos and split it up between us. Before you start, make sure you have a drying rack already set up for whatever your doing. I used some bookshelf arms for the gloves that were going to be done on all sides, but some newspaper set out next to the radiator was good enough for another pair. Some other thoughts from others who have done this that you may want to keep it mind. Allow the PU to dry for 2 days minimum at a temp between 18-25 C before you hit the snow. You can use acetone to thin out the mixture and so far there have been no ill effects on durability. Placing the finished product in an oven (80 C for 2-3 hours) was also found to significantly improve durability. Tools: 1. scale or mixing cups (I got my resin/hardner already pre-weighed, but you need to make sure you use a 10:3.5 resin/hardner ratio) 2. jar 3. small brush (retrospectively, I should have cut down the hairs to allow for more precise appliation) 4. masking tape (prep is key, good quality tape that is burnished firmly on the surface will prevent the mixture from bleeding, and it WILL) 5. work area surrounded with newspaper Procedure: This is a pair of Level gloves I did, but its the same for pants, jackets, you just need to work faster. 1. First thing I did was permanently remove the wrist strap as it always got filled with snow and annoyed me. If you want to keep stuff like this on than do a very good job of taping it away so it does not get loose. 2. Up next is taping time, spend the time (and money on better tape than what I used) to create nice crisp lines, it WILL pay off. 3. Alright here we go, as you can see the resin and hardner are already weighed out to the correct proportions with pigment added (dark grey pigment, did not have any black), a chop stick for mixing and the brush. I should have cut the hairs in half as even this brush was a bit too big for all the nooks and crannies a glove has, for pants it would be perfect. 4. Hell yea time. I applied a big thick coating. Technically you can reapply PU at a later date but I'd imagine the first coating to be the most durable. Be extra generous on the fingers, I wasn't and now have some uncovered patches. You have about 20-30 minutes to apply this stuff, but after 15 min it starts to become really thick and difficult to spread around. Keep that in mind if doing multiple articles. 5. Drying time. After 40-45 minutes I would remove the masking tape. I was inpatient and removed it earlier and got a number of runs. Dont be like me. I would also rig a horizontal drying rack and not a vertical one like here. 6. Finished product, they look sci-fi cool. I extended the PU on the left glove as my wrist frequently makes contact with the snow. I tried to keep as much material "free" since these gloves do have gore-tex. Hope this was relatively clear. Good luck finding suitable PU. BTW, to give you an idea of how detailed you can get, check this out. ,

Very common point of trouble, particularly pain and/or skin grinding. You need to remold the liners. BTW, when you did it the first time you stood upright with knees bent right? With a book or something placed under the toes?

http://www.denverpost.com/news/ci_29414833/aspen-authorities-have-interviewed-skier-accused-pushing-snowboarder

"Bad" in front of town name means "resort" or "spa"...

De- is a prefix attached to verbs. A snowboard cannot have "decamber". It can be decambered.

Yup, you can thread them in the rear slots, just again, Booster (and me) recommend you but the strap UNDER the plastic tongue, not over. I.e. it needs to be over the liners.

Booster straps (should) go over the liner under the tongue, no interference with the buckles.

Knee problems? Tell me about it. Squat. Then do more squats. Proper technique is critical.

An excellent comparative parrabel is the kitesurfing/windsurfing paradigm.