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Kessler X-Carve


Jack M

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Are you sure it's tighter SC? I find the BX boards tend to have increasing sidecuts that do not like to finish the turns. These carve specific ones might ride a bit hookier? 

You can always chop off the rounded nose/tail of the BX. I did it with the tail of my BXn and like it a lot - the board now can stand upright 😆 

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16 minutes ago, Shred Gruumer said:

But I like the specs on the cross 163 much better...

Interesting... I love the 260 waist on the 164 since I like riding with shallower angles. To me it looks like an amazing carving board just from a spec perspective.

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What angles are you running?

A 28.5MP foot should result in approx 30-31cm BSL. That would force you to have an angle of 30° at the back which is a lot but if you are willing to endure a bit of overhang you could easily get that down to 21°.

I ran 39°/30° on my 23.5cm Contra and that was perfectly doable for a carving board. If you look at the Japanese/Korean videos they usually list the angles for the riders. They can and do go up to those angles. 

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11 hours ago, JRAZZ said:

What angles are you running?

A 28.5MP foot should result in approx 30-31cm BSL. That would force you to have an angle of 30° at the back which is a lot but if you are willing to endure a bit of overhang you could easily get that down to 21°.

I ran 39°/30° on my 23.5cm Contra and that was perfectly doable for a carving board. If you look at the Japanese/Korean videos they usually list the angles for the riders. They can and do go up to those angles. 

It is considered "cool" in Japan to ride softboots at high angles. They stiffen their boots, with various aftermarket parts, to the point of being as stiff as hardboots. Some ride bbp type devices to get toe/heel lift, also. It's common, especially, among Grey riders.

First thing I thought when I saw that Kessler, was that it is for the Asian market due to the waist width.

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Quoting "Titanium" instead of "Titanal" is a pretty common thing in snow sports industry. The most of the masses know what is Titanium, but not Titanal. It has the hi-tech sound to it and is "close enough" in spelling. Plus, there are traces of Ti in Titanal. 😆

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10 hours ago, daveo said:

It is considered "cool" in Japan to ride softboots at high angles. They stiffen their boots, with various aftermarket parts, to the point of being as stiff as hardboots. Some ride bbp type devices to get toe/heel lift, also. It's common, especially, among Grey riders.

First thing I thought when I saw that Kessler, was that it is for the Asian market due to the waist width.

I could never understand why they don't ride very soft hard boots, instead of Franken-softies... But it's O/T... 

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9 minutes ago, BlueB said:

I could never understand why they don't ride very soft hard boots, instead of Franken-softies... But it's O/T... 

Well I can only speak of the ones I know personally, and they all actually ride hardboots and that's the preferred setup for apx 80% of them. Can't speak for any Koreans as I've never snowboarded with any and haven't been to Korea for snowboarding.

But yeah, if I were to ride softboots, I'd ride at something like 30/21. Otherwise what's the point eh.

2019 season, I had an SG Soul 164 with drivers and flows and honestly hated riding softboots- felt too unnatural for me. Couldn't make it work, that's why I'm probably going to get an all mountain-ish hardboot board made from somewhere eventually. Still can't find anything with the specs I want...

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I reckon if I already have several hard boot boards why do I want a soft boot board for the same purpose? I’m riding 12/27 IIRC. I really enjoy the soft setup in difficult conditions: I was going down a cut up powdery bump run in white-out conditions and found it way easier to adjust to the sudden inputs and stay on my feet than I can on my all mountain hardboot rig. 

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42 minutes ago, Neil Gendzwill said:

I reckon if I already have several hard boot boards why do I want a soft boot board for the same purpose? I’m riding 12/27 IIRC. I really enjoy the soft setup in difficult conditions: I was going down a cut up powdery bump run in white-out conditions and found it way easier to adjust to the sudden inputs and stay on my feet than I can on my all mountain hardboot rig. 

There you go 🙂

I don't have hardboots since I don't get along with them. I either use 27/12 on my wider boards or 36/21 on my narrower boards. Both work really well for me. I do use 39/30 for the really narrow boards but those are less fun usually.

The Kessler, the AZX and other 26cm boards are prefect for a carving SB board. I'm not in the market but that is what I would look for. FWIW it seems like I like the Japanese way of riding.

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On 3/26/2021 at 2:03 PM, Neil Gendzwill said:

I reckon if I already have several hard boot boards why do I want a soft boot board for the same purpose? I’m riding 12/27 IIRC. I really enjoy the soft setup in difficult conditions: I was going down a cut up powdery bump run in white-out conditions and found it way easier to adjust to the sudden inputs and stay on my feet than I can on my all mountain hardboot rig. 

I agree, and that's a valid reason to not have a softboot carving board.  However unless it's a powder day, there are usually opportunities to carve even on days when I'd rather softboot.  So it's nice to have a softboot board that can carve well.  It's fun to mix it up and surf some turns on the side of the trail, or go in the woods, and then lay down some carves on the groomed stuff, all in one run.  Not sure this X-Carve is that board though, it seems to have even less nose than my Winterstick.

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  • 1 month later...

Oh, something new to try. I like the look of that.

I guess my main problem as a hard-booter would be the width... riding wide boards (eg my Burton Dump Truck) with 45/35 angles and hard boots isn't great on piste because it's too wide at around 26cm waist. The lever on the edge doesn't work - my heel/toes are too inboard so getting the board on edge on hardpack isn't easy. Of course powder is fine.

The waist width is essentially identical to this Kessler, so I guess I would have the same problem. Maybe I can make it work if I go a bit wider. I can't remember what my first ever snowboard boot angles were - the bindings were mounted directly on the board. I think they were maybe 35/18 or something like that. Hmm.

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@philw
Try biasing your bindings on wide boards so that your rear binding toe is close to the edge, and your front binding heel is close the edge. Works for me on my old Rad Air Obsession/Pinkerman Extreme and the board carves easily and flicks quickly from edge to edge.

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