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David Kirk

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David Kirk last won the day on November 21 2019

David Kirk had the most liked content!

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About David Kirk

  • Rank
    Groomer Grommet

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.kirkframeworks.com

Details

  • Location
    Bozeman Montana
  • Home Mountain/Resort?
    Bridger Bowl
  • Occupation?
    Bicycle framebuilder
  • Current Boards in your Quiver
    Kessler Alpine 185, Rad Air 187 Tanker, Rad Air 200 Tanker
  • Current Boots Used?
    raichle
  • Current bindings and set-up?
    TD 3's
  • Snowboarding since
    1978
  • Hardbooting since
    1982

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  1. I watched some of the video you shared and here's my take....I think for that style of carving that the 17m radius would be longer than optimal. On less steep slopes you'll spend much of the run trying to get up to the speed needed to turn the board hard and after a hard carve your speed will be too low and you'll need to let it run again to get speed for the next turn. This is a boring way to ride IMO. On steep slopes you might have trouble controlling speed because the bigger turn keeps you in the fall line longer and it can be hard to keep speed in check and not be "that guy" who rides so f
  2. Speed is relative isn't it? To one person 25 mph is slow and to someone else, on different terrain, with different skill level and different gear it's too fast. So when you say "as fast as possible" that's hard to pin down. I will say the the Oxess BX board with the 17 m radius will go very quickly and is unflappable. That said if you are not coming across the fall line at near 90° and not making big edge angles then the talk of carving performance is all moot. I get strafed at times by guys with boards 158 cm long and 8 m radius going 45mph nearly straight down the hill and the gear geomet
  3. It is fairly intuitive....the board with the longer radius likes to be going faster before it will be happy carving at a high edge angle. One nice thing about the longer radius is how well it skids turns. I know that this isn't the aim of most riders here but if you ride bumps and steeps then the longer radius skids turns very nicely without being too busy or hooky. Would i spend more for the shorter radius? - yes. In fact I did. I had the Oxess BX board with a 17m radius and I liked it a lot. I just felt the radius was a bit long for the speeds I wanted to go on the trails I typical
  4. I'm not sure if this directly applies or not but it can't hurt - FWIW - my experience says that one should match the sidecut radius to the speed you want to go and the width of the trails you ride. Boards with a very tight radius (like the 7.9M in the OP) are not comfortable being ridden at a high speed with a high edge angle (very tight turns at a high speed try to beak the laws of physics) so they need to be ridden at either a lower speed or a lower edge angle. One thing that is almost never discussed is that the torsional rigidity of a board is paramount to its precision and stab
  5. It looks like the snow was pretty good. I was there a few days earlier and found very firm and cold snow that was still edgy enough to carve hard and it looks like it warmed up for the days you were there no doubt making it even better. dave
  6. Good morning - No....I told Marcel that I had a stock 169/17m board that I loved and that the only thing I'd change was making the radius a bit tighter and I asked for a 14.5m radius. I wanted to change as little as possible and just wanted the board to hook a tighter turn. Performance in moderate powder is easier to come by, IMHO, than making it hook up on a carved turn and I didn't want to compromise the carving performance for a small gain in soft snow. For sure this board will not be the one I grab when I wake up to see that the hill has 18" of fresh...but when there's 6" of
  7. So….a bit of a follow up - I had a chance to spend most of the day today riding the new Oxess at Big Sky. The conditions were anything but springlike with a bit of sun here and there and temps in the upper teens. The off-groomed was not good with coral reef under a few inches of fresh dust. But the groomers were pretty good if a bit firm. The board turned out awesome. The edge hold is staggering and you can dive in hard on it in nearly the same fashion as I can on my two Kesslers (slalom and GS) and it just slices and holds. The snow was super reactive and the board can be made to h
  8. I'll keep that in mind....if the weather turns more winter-like that could be fun. If it stays springish I'll be racing my autocross car. Tough choices! dave
  9. This began as a bit of an experiment about a year ago. I’d been riding a RadAir Tanker 187 as my everyday all terrain board and while I liked it I wanted something a little less twitchy and more damp. On deep days the 187 was really fun but with an 11m radius it really prefers to be carved on groomers at a low speed. It also isn’t stiff enough torsionally to hook up on firm groomer very well. So I went on a search fo a more damp board with a longer radius that would be happier at higher speeds, be comfortable at steep edge angles, carve steep groomers well enough to be fun and deal with a mode
  10. Hello Jennifer - I took measurements of my two feet with thin socks on. The right foot measures an even 28.0cm and the left is 28.5cm. I'd be inclined to size to the smaller foot and punch the shell if need be to fit the larger foot. One of my least favorite things is a loose fit. With my high instep and the actual foot measurements in mind what size Mountain Slope boot should I be looking at? I look forward to your input. dave
  11. Thanks you so very much for speaking up. Do you have any photos of how the tongue works on your boots? With the Deluxe boots the tongue can pivot fully forward and out of the way and it makes getting my silly tall instep foot very easy. I'd love to see what things look like if the tongue can pivot out of the way. Can you post a few photos? thanks again. dave
  12. Cool - good info all. Thank you. I have a size 10.5 foot, narrow heel, skinny calves, fairly normal fore-foot and a VERY high instep. The high instep is a problem in most any foot wear I want to buy. The Deeluxe shell accommodates the instep fairly well with minor mods. The instep is so high that I can't slip my foot into a traditional overlap ski boot shell with the liner removed. Slip on casual shoes won't work because I literally can't get my feet in them. You get the idea. I used the Deeluxe 325T's with the stiffest tongues and I would not want them to be any softer and feel like
  13. I’m Mountain Slope curious. I’ve been using Raichle/Deeluxe boots for a very long time and they work well for me and I have no real complaints. That said, I see nearly every World Cup racer using Mountain Slope boots and I wonder why? What is it about Mountain Slope boots that makes them the go-to choice of so many racers? Who here has actually used them and can relate their first hand experience? Dave
  14. The bindings are sold and paid for. dave
  15. For sale - Bomber TD3 Sidewinder bindings. Very limited use and in nearly new condition. I’m sure that if you look hard enough that you might find a small mark here or there but they look as new. They come fit with the yellow E-Pads and the yellow E-Rings. The base plates are 3° and 6°. Includes all hardware and some extra E-pads as shown. New these are $525 but these are offered at $285 shipped in the lower 48 states. If you are outside that area we would work out the extra shipping cost. Please PM me with your interest. Paypal payment only. Dave
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