piusthedrcarve Posted February 16, 2018 Report Share Posted February 16, 2018 (edited) @erazz & @jim_s, Thank you guys for doing this. Once all are done, can anyone change thickness and canted angles? How much would it cost to print a set of bindings? Any recommending filament materials for the plates? (I want them to be like 90-95A) Edited February 16, 2018 by piusthedrcarve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRAZZ Posted February 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2018 The code allows for changing the binding angle, height, cant, lift, width, length (both top and bottom), and some other miscellaneous values. Right now I'm printing a 28.5mm high, 27 degree, no cant or lift plate for a 0/6 cant and 27/9 binding angle set. @jim_s's idea of using OpenSCAD rocks. I should thank him for pointing me in this direction but since it's turned to obsession I'm not sure that's appropriate I would recommend ABS since it's cheap, stable, and has good low temperature performance. I do want to try out Nylon since it might have better shock absorption but can't recommend it at the moment because I don't know what the water absorption would do to it. Depending on the material of choice the cost is very minimal. Each plate weighs ~150 grams. Even with expensive material you are not going to go over $15 for the pair. Another expense are the screws. I'm using M6x45mm stainless countersunk screws (for a 28.5mm high plate). These cost around $9 for a pack of 10 on Amazon. Print time is around 12-15 hours per plate (at least on my printer). If you need any help in generating a particular set let us know! Unfortunately the Thingiverse customizer is not working (and hasn't been working for a month apparently) so the best way to generate an STL is to download OpenSCAD and open the code file there (I'm attaching the latest rev) Power_Plate.scad 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim_s Posted February 17, 2018 Report Share Posted February 17, 2018 (edited) 9 hours ago, erazz said: I should thank him for pointing me in this direction but since it's turned to obsession I'm not sure that's appropriate Every alpine boarder I've ever met is probably diagnosable with an obsessive personality disorder, so just add OpenSCAD to your list... ;-) For those w/o access to a 3D printer, there are online services that you can use to print your customized model. Shapeways is probably the most well known, but also tends to be rather expensive. 3DHubs is a collection of local geeks with printers who will print things for a price, and tends to be the least expensive option. One of @erazz's plates, via Shapeways, comes out to be about $270 - probably not a great price proposition. The same plate printed via 3DHubs (in PETG material) should be around $40-$45 + a few dollars in shipping. (this price is for one plate, so a pair would be in the $80-$90 range + shipping, but shipping via 3DHubs is usually *very* reasonable.) Compared to what I understand is something in the $70-$80 range (+ shipping from Europe) for a stock set of power plates, you'd be paying the same basic price for a fully customized set printed to your own personal specifications (lift, cant, twist, thickness, width, length, etc), so even for those w/o a printer, its likely still a pretty good deal. (The take-home message here, though, is its worth your while to have a 3D printer, or to at least be on good terms with someone who does, LoL! :-) Edited February 17, 2018 by jim_s 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lonbordin Posted February 17, 2018 Report Share Posted February 17, 2018 5 hours ago, jim_s said: (The take-home message here, though, is its worth your while to have a 3D printer, or to at least be on good terms with someone who does, LoL! :-) Additional possible printing locations: -your local maker space -your local library -large universities 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colozeus Posted February 20, 2018 Report Share Posted February 20, 2018 Would any of you be able to design some wedges for the td3 disks? I'm currently stuck with 3 degree disks and i'm looking for a 6 degree. I can't order from bomber and nobody has a spare set to sell me. Ideally, i would love to be able to just stick 1 degree wedges on top of the base plate. Shouldn't be too hard to design. Maybe even just 3d scan it? Thoughts? Send me a PM if you can do this. I'm willing to pay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRAZZ Posted February 21, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2018 Not willing to accept money but there might be someone who has said disk. (PMing you) The forces in those bindings are pretty large (see the thread with the broken plates). I want to look at my binding to see what can be done so it's still safe. (Probably a shim underneath the binding altogether) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim_s Posted February 21, 2018 Report Share Posted February 21, 2018 7 hours ago, Colozeus said: Would any of you be able to design some wedges for the td3 disks? I'm currently stuck with 3 degree disks and i'm looking for a 6 degree. I can't order from bomber and nobody has a spare set to sell me. Ideally, i would love to be able to just stick 1 degree wedges on top of the base plate. Shouldn't be too hard to design. Maybe even just 3d scan it? Thoughts? Send me a PM if you can do this. I'm willing to pay. Yikes - weren't those TD base plates made of machined aluminum? Maybe I'm confused about what you're looking for, but if its what I think it is, a 3D printed part would be wholly unsuited for the task. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted February 21, 2018 Report Share Posted February 21, 2018 He's thinking of a shim between the toe/heel blocks and the top plate. Like the F2 lift blocks but without the V-groove. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beckmann AG Posted February 21, 2018 Report Share Posted February 21, 2018 3 hours ago, Corey said: a shim between the toe/heel blocks and the top plate That would be straightforward, if not for the fasteners involved. The heads on the stock fasteners are custom for a larger wrench, and I'd be leery of squeezing a sandwich with the smaller drive size on 'off-the-rack' screws. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRAZZ Posted February 21, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2018 Worth a shot.... I'll see what I can do. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colozeus Posted February 21, 2018 Report Share Posted February 21, 2018 5 hours ago, Corey said: He's thinking of a shim between the toe/heel blocks and the top plate. Like the F2 lift blocks but without the V-groove. Well, i was actually thinking of basically printing the actual disk, or a shim for the disk, but i now realize it's probably not a good idea to sandwich plastic in between metal. I guess i'll just have to deal with my 3 degree disks for now. Or switch to f2 bindings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piusthedrcarve Posted March 2, 2018 Report Share Posted March 2, 2018 On 2/16/2018 at 3:04 PM, erazz said: If you need any help in generating a particular set let us know! Unfortunately the Thingiverse customizer is not working (and hasn't been working for a month apparently) so the best way to generate an STL is to download OpenSCAD and open the code file there (I'm attaching the latest rev) I generated 2 STL files for front & back plate separate using OpenSCAD. The rendering time took almost an hour. Is that normal? Rendering Polygon Mesh using CGAL... Geometries in cache: 472 Geometry cache size in bytes: 74343584 CGAL Polyhedrons in cache: 1 CGAL cache size in bytes: 78007448 Total rendering time: 0 hours, 53 minutes, 39 seconds Top level object is a 3D object: Simple: yes Vertices: 50661 Halfedges: 179816 Edges: 89908 Halffacets: 78494 Facets: 39247 Volumes: 2 Rendering finished. STL export finished. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRAZZ Posted March 2, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2018 57 minutes ago, piusthedrcarve said: I generated 2 STL files for front & back plate separate using OpenSCAD. The rendering time took almost an hour. Is that normal? Yes. Maybe on the long end of things but still reasonable. The main driver is the "steps" value. A value of 40 gives a very smooth shape but takes long. A value of 10 is much quicker. I settled on 20 and that gives me a ~15 minute rendering time. Being used to professional CAD packages I was initially concerned about those "speeds" but the result is good so I can't complain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piusthedrcarve Posted March 3, 2018 Report Share Posted March 3, 2018 10 hours ago, erazz said: Yes. Maybe on the long end of things but still reasonable. The main driver is the "steps" value. A value of 40 gives a very smooth shape but takes long. A value of 10 is much quicker. I settled on 20 and that gives me a ~15 minute rendering time. Being used to professional CAD packages I was initially concerned about those "speeds" but the result is good so I can't complain. Yup. The 'Steps' value did it. Changed it to 20 and got it converted in less than 10 minutes. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRAZZ Posted March 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2018 Excellent! Let us know how they work out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shred Gruumer Posted March 6, 2018 Report Share Posted March 6, 2018 Pictures....Price??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRAZZ Posted March 6, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2018 Pictures? Ya mean like the ones below? Price? I dunno, about $7 in material and 24 hours of printing per pair. @jim_s did a great writeup on the cost if you don't have a 3D printer here. I thought about printing for members but I don't fancy the litigation potential. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piusthedrcarve Posted March 22, 2018 Report Share Posted March 22, 2018 (edited) Here is my first try. For my usual 27/9 stance angle, Red: Front 27 degree twist, 3 degree toe lift, 3 degree inward cant Black: Real 9 degree twist, 3 degree heel lift, 3 degree inward cant Length (per plate): 245 mm, Width: 130 mm at top plane and 100 mm at bottom, Height; 18.5 mm Weight (both): 248 g Edited March 23, 2018 by piusthedrcarve 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim_s Posted March 22, 2018 Report Share Posted March 22, 2018 Those look awesome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRAZZ Posted March 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2018 Nice!!! Let us know how they work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowrider Posted April 1, 2018 Report Share Posted April 1, 2018 Nice job ! My only concern would be maintaining torque of mounting screws that are now entering the board inserts at an angle ! One fix would be to incorporate inserts in your wedge and utilize countersunk screws to mount wedges to board then bindings to wedge inserts. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slopestar Posted April 10, 2018 Report Share Posted April 10, 2018 I found a pair just like these... just sitting in the lodge 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slopestar Posted April 10, 2018 Report Share Posted April 10, 2018 On 4/1/2018 at 7:37 AM, lowrider said: Nice job ! My only concern would be maintaining torque of mounting screws that are now entering the board inserts at an angle ! One fix would be to incorporate inserts in your wedge and utilize countersunk screws to mount wedges to board then bindings to wedge inserts. The ones I found have the screws running through the riser/cant at 90* to the base. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowrider Posted April 10, 2018 Report Share Posted April 10, 2018 8 hours ago, slopestar said: The ones I found have the screws running through the riser/cant at 90* to the base. So now the screws are 90* to base and angled on the binding plate same problem unless binding plate is squishy plastic. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRAZZ Posted April 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2018 There's enough threads on most inserts to accommodate 3 degrees of cant. One set is threaded deeper than the other but both have enough engagement. The trick is getting the riser thick enough to hit the sweet spot. I've found that 23.5mm high risers work well with 40mm screws and that 28.5mm risers work well with 45mm screws. Once you add in heel/toe lift or increase cant you need to use different length screws. Other than the length the angle that the screws sees is not large enough to affect the binding. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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