barryj Posted January 6, 2017 Report Share Posted January 6, 2017 On my pow board my rear binding/free foot toe bail won't stay upright.....just getting on the lift makes it flop down. It's a pain to try to flip up in the pow! Can a TD3 Step In toe bail be tightened? I tried, but to no avail. Guess I could resort to Locktite......but I would like to be able to move it down when I want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slopestar Posted January 6, 2017 Report Share Posted January 6, 2017 There is a waffle washer in there. It has eithe lost its waffle like properties or is missing completely Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slopestar Posted January 6, 2017 Report Share Posted January 6, 2017 There is a waffle washer in there. It has eithe lost its waffle like properties or is missing completely Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barryj Posted January 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2017 Hey Slope I tried cranking down on it from both ends at the same time but it won't move either way! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TVR Posted January 6, 2017 Report Share Posted January 6, 2017 The waffle washer is a very thin washer, with a wave type shape. In the event you cannot get another, go to your hardware store and get a VERY thin copper or brass washer with the same hole size as the Allen bolt, and bend it slightly and use that. The idea is to have the washer put a little pressure on the arm and that will keep it from flopping. You could also use a plastic tiny washer, but it is more likely to simply break due to the changes in the temperature. Whatever you do, be sure the Allen bolt still inserts far enough and also you may want to use some LockTight blue to ensure the Allen doesn't back out again. I imagine, if you beg Bomber, they might have a few spares to sell you...... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nekdut Posted January 6, 2017 Report Share Posted January 6, 2017 I'm having this exact problem too. Thanks for the tip. TD4 wishlist - spring loaded bails like we used to have! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted January 6, 2017 Report Share Posted January 6, 2017 Ghetto option: Get a thick plastic bag, like something that carried softener salt or wrapped a fridge. Use a hole punch to, well, punch a hole. Then trim the plastic close to that hole so you have a little plastic washer. Insert that between the binding bail and the toe block. If more are needed, repeat. I do this if/when I lose the wave washers. Bonus points if it's a contrasting color to the red or silver parts! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Brammer aka PSR Posted January 6, 2017 Report Share Posted January 6, 2017 Easy fix. Take the bolt, used to hold the bail to the block, with you to the hardware/tractor supply store. Go to the 'nuts/bolts/screw' dept, and look for thin nylon washers with a 5/16 inner hole, and OD of no more than 5/8". Check the ID of the washer against said Bomber bolt while there. IF you cannot find said washer, consider very thin O-rings. Put the washer/or/O-ring on the bolt between the bail hold and the binding block, but be sure you've snugged it down only so far. If you then use locktite, use Red 242, as it can be unscrewed later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimcheen Posted January 7, 2017 Report Share Posted January 7, 2017 There are two different sole blocks for the toe of a TD3. I believe the difference in them is the angle at which the bail is held while against the forward stops. Perhaps this would help? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Brammer aka PSR Posted January 7, 2017 Report Share Posted January 7, 2017 4 hours ago, nekdut said: I'm having this exact problem too. Thanks for the tip. TD4 wishlist - spring loaded bails like we used to have! Fin came up to me, in the lift line, back at ECES 1, and asked what the rubber-bands on my TD-1's were for. My reply was, 'cause you didn't put springs in like Rad-Air/F-2 does to keep the frippin' bails up!' Lordy, if I have to keep reminding them every 15 years or so, we'll get Nowhere!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barryj Posted January 7, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2017 You guys are making the assumption I can get the damm thing apart! What's the trick?? ...and my TD3 Step In Side Winders toe bails don't look like any Jim linked.... here's a couple of photos.....I have two identical sets ( one set on my pow board and the other here on the Swoard Dual)that are not that old....a couple of years at best....why are mine so different looking??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack M Posted January 7, 2017 Report Share Posted January 7, 2017 You guys, you are all way over-thinking this. Simply remove one bail bolt, then bend the bail slightly to create a couple mm of space between the shoulder lug and the toe pad. I.e., so now the distance between the ends of the bail is slightly wider than the toe pad. Then screw the bail bolt back in. This new tension will create friction that will prevent the bail from flopping around. This tip came to me from Fin himself. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barryj Posted January 7, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2017 Jack- Great idea bending the bail......BUT Somebody Tell Me "HOW DO YOU REMOVE THE BAIL BOLT" I've tried an Allen in both ends and tried counter cranking them....it won't budge! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neanderthal Posted January 7, 2017 Report Share Posted January 7, 2017 5 hours ago, nekdut said: I'm having this exact problem too. Thanks for the tip. TD4 wishlist - spring loaded bails like we used to have! Amen! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big mario Posted January 7, 2017 Report Share Posted January 7, 2017 Try chucking up a 5mm bit in a cordless impact driver if straight Allen's ain't cuttin it. Do so at your own risk, strippage and or snappage are possibilities. I disavow any negative outcomes. Good luck Mario Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
queequeg Posted January 7, 2017 Report Share Posted January 7, 2017 (edited) 59 minutes ago, barryj said: Jack- Great idea bending the bail......BUT Somebody Tell Me "HOW DO YOU REMOVE THE BAIL BOLT" I've tried an Allen in both ends and tried counter cranking them....it won't budge! The small allen bolt that threads into the bail shaft won't budge? How long have you had the bindings? Perhaps hit it with a tiny bit of penetrating oil like PB Blaster? Use a small tube on the end of uour allen wrench to fashion yourself a mini-breaker-bar? Use goggles if you fo this. Edited January 7, 2017 by queequeg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
queequeg Posted January 7, 2017 Report Share Posted January 7, 2017 1 minute ago, big mario said: Try chucking up a 5mm bit in a cordless impact driver if straight Allen's ain't cuttin it. Do so at your own risk, strippage and or snappage are possibilities. I disavow any negative outcomes. Good luck Mario Yeah - maybe use a clutch driver and set the torque limit low to start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Brammer aka PSR Posted January 7, 2017 Report Share Posted January 7, 2017 Well, I did mention rubber bands.... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjnakata Posted January 7, 2017 Report Share Posted January 7, 2017 With some force and leverage on both ends it'll let go...with a snap! Avoid off-axis rotation of the wrenches at all costs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Donnelly Posted January 7, 2017 Report Share Posted January 7, 2017 (edited) Avoid L shape wrenches and get a T handle. Once removed, coating the threads will help to prevent un-wanted loosening and seizures. Available on-line from several sources. https://www.wihatools.com/hex-metric-t-handles Edited January 7, 2017 by Pat Donnelly 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted January 7, 2017 Report Share Posted January 7, 2017 Eric, there are positive stops on the TD3 to stop falling towards the toe edge. The issue is falling towards the heel edge, which rubber bands won't fix. Barry, how's the front one? As a quick fix, swap the toe blocks. I clip into my front one 3 or 4 times a day vs. what seems like hundreds for the rear. Otherwise, order a spare shaft and small end bolt before starting. That way if something breaks you're not screwed. http://store.bomberonline.com/TD3-Lug-Shaft_p_57.html http://store.bomberonline.com/TD3-Lug-Shaft-Screw_p_49.html I like using a hex-key socket to fit a 3/8 ratchet handle. T-handles are epic, but they can't offer the torque even a cheap ratchet can. If the bolt head strips before it comes out with the ratchet, then it was going to strip regardless of what you did. Then out comes the drill, and you're really glad you ordered the spare shaft mentioned above. As long as you keep the hex shaft fully engaged and parallel to the bolt/shaft, it's pretty surprising how much torque it'll take without stripping. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertAlexander Posted January 7, 2017 Report Share Posted January 7, 2017 right hand thread, lefty loosey, righty tightey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barryj Posted January 7, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2017 I guess I'll just swap toe boxes for now, thanks Corey!. Jim offered to send me some new wavy washers...so I'll wait for those Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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