Colozeus Posted March 27, 2016 Report Share Posted March 27, 2016 Just curious what everyone does for summer storage. Mainly to keep the edges from rusting. Anything special you do with bindings? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Surf Quebec Posted March 27, 2016 Report Share Posted March 27, 2016 Unscrew the bindings a bit to remove pressure. Clean topsheet Sharpen the edges Apply wax to the board and put some wax on the edges and do not scrape/brush the wax Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Brammer aka PSR Posted March 27, 2016 Report Share Posted March 27, 2016 Here's a post I put up 16 years ago. If I still had the house/barn, this would be how I'd still put 'em up over the summer. At the end of the season(ours in the Northeast is almost done),I put my boards on a camber rack for the summer.This helps boards hold their shape,both in terms of camber,and in terms of twist.It's fairly easy to make,using 2x6's,and 1" wood dowels,roughly 1' long.Each 2x6 gets five dowel rods,one at the center(centered in regards to length and width,draw a lengthwise centerline for reference),and two each at the ends.I cut the length of the 2x6 so that it's +or- 6" longer than the boards that'll be mounted on it.The dowels at the tip and tail of the board are placed 2" inboard of the nose/tail curvature.Space the end dowels so that there's a gap of 1/2" between them(3/4" from centerline of the 2x6 to the center of the dowel holes),and that one dowel is directly above the other,with regards to the centerline.The dowel placement should look a little like this, : . : but with the center dowel up to the true midpoint of the 2x6.Small shims can be used to cure any gaps(Asyms are a challenge!),or to set the right camber for a given board,And paint-stirring sticks are ideal here.Set your boards base-to-base on the rack,matching lengths whenever possible(try to stay within 10cm of difference between any two boards on a rack),and shim only enough to keep the current camber,as a thick shim can actually stretch a board's camber over the summer.Store your boards in a dry,tempature-stable area,away from direct sunlight(most garages are o.k.).Don't forget to wax them before storing,and be sure to cover the edges with extra wax to keep rust at bay.I hope this helps the more serious riders keep the quiver in shape during the off season. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Donnelly Posted March 28, 2016 Report Share Posted March 28, 2016 (edited) How was your trip to Aspen? Edited March 28, 2016 by Pat Donnelly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colozeus Posted March 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2016 How was your trip to Aspen? It was great! I wish i would have stayed an extra week. I didn't even try the other mountains because i liked snowmass so much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piusthedrcarve Posted March 29, 2016 Report Share Posted March 29, 2016 Here's a post I put up 16 years ago. If I still had the house/barn, this would be how I'd still put 'em up over the summer. At the end of the season(ours in the Northeast is almost done),I put my boards on a camber rack for the summer.This helps boards hold their shape,both in terms of camber,and in terms of twist.It's fairly easy to make,using 2x6's,and 1" wood dowels,roughly 1' long.Each 2x6 gets five dowel rods,one at the center(centered in regards to length and width,draw a lengthwise centerline for reference),and two each at the ends.I cut the length of the 2x6 so that it's +or- 6" longer than the boards that'll be mounted on it.The dowels at the tip and tail of the board are placed 2" inboard of the nose/tail curvature.Space the end dowels so that there's a gap of 1/2" between them(3/4" from centerline of the 2x6 to the center of the dowel holes),and that one dowel is directly above the other,with regards to the centerline.The dowel placement should look a little like this, : . : but with the center dowel up to the true midpoint of the 2x6.Small shims can be used to cure any gaps(Asyms are a challenge!),or to set the right camber for a given board,And paint-stirring sticks are ideal here.Set your boards base-to-base on the rack,matching lengths whenever possible(try to stay within 10cm of difference between any two boards on a rack),and shim only enough to keep the current camber,as a thick shim can actually stretch a board's camber over the summer.Store your boards in a dry,tempature-stable area,away from direct sunlight(most garages are o.k.).Don't forget to wax them before storing,and be sure to cover the edges with extra wax to keep rust at bay.I hope this helps the more serious riders keep the quiver in shape during the off season. This can be a great weekend project since I just got done with cleaning and waxing. Any photo of the 'Camber' rack? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Brammer aka PSR Posted March 29, 2016 Report Share Posted March 29, 2016 Sorry, no such photo.. However, using stock lumber (2x6's and 1" dowels), what you want to do is cut the 2x6 about 6" longer than the board to be placed on it. Then find the exact center. Put the first, center, dowel in there. Don't go all the way thru in drilling for the dowels, but leave about a 1/2" of w ood. Use a 1-1/2" sheetrock screw to anchor the dowels from the backside of the 2x6. Be sure to pilot-drill both the 2x6, and the dowels, or you'll have splits in the wood. After you know your board lengths, you want to hold them about 1-1/2" inches in from the tail (this with 'flat-tail' carvers; if it's a BX or freecarver with a turned up tail, put the dowel in board of the lowest-cambered spot by about an inch). With the nose shapes out there, well, look for the end of the camber arch, and go inwards about an inch. I typically placed the end pair of dowels a good 1-1/2 inches apart (1/2" for each dowel, 1/2" between from centerpoints of the dowels), and used the paint-stirring sticks to shim between board bases. At the center dowel, I actually made thinner, and thicker shims to fit between the center dowel and the board's center-of-camber, as not to over-stretch any board's core. Temperature changes can do odd things to your boards, so don't 'stress' them too much in the rack, just support the curvatures they have. The board that inspired this rack was my 205 Safari long-comp, as it had a complex shape of more than one camber point. My rack fit that board, and, just barely, the 187 Gnu RaceRoom under the 205. It then became a set of 5 2x6's,of differing lengths to fit some of my quiver (ah, 1991, I had 27 boards, from Backhills to Barfoots, spanning over a decade of board shapes; If I'd kept them all, I'd be Ebay-rich by now!), as I had at least ten boards, from the 150's up thru 180's that were cambered and used for racing and teaching. Living in apartments (thanks to the Ex!), I've found that putting the boards flat, straight-up, but with a little 'camber' bar works o.k.. With that, I use the dowels, now 1-1/2" as cross-bars holding the board near the nose, and tail, pinned to the closet wall using short screws thru the outer parts of the dowels. Landlords hate me... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigwavedave Posted April 19, 2018 Report Share Posted April 19, 2018 Thought I'd revive this thread as I have been putting my boards to bed for the summer and just to relate a couple of things that have worked for me. I started using straight paraffin "canning" wax for storage wax. It' super cheap, and so soft it really seems to go deep into the base. I've been using it for a couple of years now and it seems like I've even needed less alpine glide wax during the regular season. It's also a pretty decent glide wax for warm/wet snow. The other thing is loosening the binding screws before placing a waxing iron on the base. This was a tip Sean Martin told me to prevent "base suck", and I think that leaving the screws loose during storage also helps, especially if it gets warm or hot where you store your boards. Since I've been doing this I've had little or no detectable base suck. You just have to remember to re-tighten them before you hop on that board next season! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fish Posted April 19, 2018 Report Share Posted April 19, 2018 I’ve been taking all boards and bindings apart. I’ve got enough set up notes and pics to get back to where I started. Then I wax with something cheap. Here’s my question: is it good or bad to leave wax on the metal edges? Does it inhibit rust? Promote rust? Or neither? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigwavedave Posted April 19, 2018 Report Share Posted April 19, 2018 I've never had rust under the wax, I think it protects. Seems like a lot of extra work to completely remove the bindings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveo Posted April 19, 2018 Report Share Posted April 19, 2018 Curious why everyone uses 'cheap' wax for storage? Considering how many times you wax your board each season, why are you using cheap wax for this single application of storage? I personally use Dominator Graphite ReNew or Briko-Maplus Race Base Soft/Medium, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveo Posted April 19, 2018 Report Share Posted April 19, 2018 53 minutes ago, bigwavedave said: I've never had rust under the wax, I think it protects. Seems like a lot of extra work to completely remove the bindings. I believe it's actually to prevent 'binding suck' on the base when you heat it up to apply the wax... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted April 19, 2018 Report Share Posted April 19, 2018 I completely loosened my 4x4 screws, to the point that the base disc is rattling. That should be obvious come winter time. This is the first time I've done that, but it didn't take very long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigwavedave Posted April 19, 2018 Report Share Posted April 19, 2018 55 minutes ago, daveo said: Curious why everyone uses 'cheap' wax for storage? Considering how many times you wax your board each season, why are you using cheap wax for this single application of storage? I personally use Dominator Graphite ReNew or Briko-Maplus Race Base Soft/Medium, Works better in my experience and at a fraction of the price. I rarely hot wax with an iron during the season, mostly touching up the edges by rubbing it on. 55 minutes ago, daveo said: I believe it's actually to prevent 'binding suck' on the base when you heat it up to apply the wax... Read my 1st post. I just loosen the screws, I don't see the need to completely disassemble the bindings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveo Posted April 19, 2018 Report Share Posted April 19, 2018 4 minutes ago, bigwavedave said: Read my 1st post. I just loosen the screws, I don't see the need to completely disassemble the bindings. My bad. Good thinking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fish Posted April 19, 2018 Report Share Posted April 19, 2018 3 hours ago, daveo said: Curious why everyone uses 'cheap' wax for storage? Considering how many times you wax your board each season, why are you using cheap wax for this single application of storage? I personally use Dominator Graphite ReNew or Briko-Maplus Race Base Soft/Medium, Swix yellow. I usually hot scrape before I put boards away. Especially if I've been riding in Spring mud. Then leave every board with thick layer. I start the season by scraping down whatever board I'm going out on, brushing it out, and then by applying a more temp specific type wax if necessary. Sometimes you need something harder than swix yellow for the start of the season. But if you don't then why suffer having to scrape that stuff? Yellow is easy to work with, good, and cheap when you buy the big blocks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigwavedave Posted April 19, 2018 Report Share Posted April 19, 2018 "Gulf" paraffin canning wax-$5.00 for 1 lb (four blocks), each block the same size as a $10-$20 block of Swix--and it's softer and actually works as well or better in warm wet snow. Ask @BlueB 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueB Posted April 19, 2018 Report Share Posted April 19, 2018 Yup ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fish Posted April 20, 2018 Report Share Posted April 20, 2018 3 hours ago, bigwavedave said: "Gulf" paraffin canning wax-$5.00 for 1 lb (four blocks), each block the same size as a $10-$20 block of Swix--and it's softer and actually works as well or better in warm wet snow. Ask @BlueB I’ll get some and try it out. But I worry that I’m not going to like the smell as much as i like the smell of swix yellow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eboot Posted April 20, 2018 Report Share Posted April 20, 2018 6 minutes ago, fish said: I’ll get some and try it out. But I worry that I’m not going to like the smell as much as i like the smell of swix yellow. Another first world problem 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RFKANGOO Posted April 20, 2018 Report Share Posted April 20, 2018 Why store your stuff if you can go snowboarding all year long. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottishsurfer Posted April 20, 2018 Report Share Posted April 20, 2018 (edited) I have a similar place to ride though its only 150m i consider it summer purgatory not the hell of waiting 8 months for the mountains but it sure isnt the heaven of being on the real thing Edited April 20, 2018 by scottishsurfer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RFKANGOO Posted April 20, 2018 Report Share Posted April 20, 2018 6 hours ago, scottishsurfer said: I have a similar place to ride though its only 150m i consider it summer purgatory not the hell of waiting 8 months for the mountains but it sure isnt the heaven of being on the real thing For me it is only 30 minutes driving. For a 300m slope. Great fun to be there every week with friends. Doing slalom and carving training there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottishsurfer Posted April 20, 2018 Report Share Posted April 20, 2018 7 hours ago, RFKANGOO said: For me it is only 30 minutes driving. For a 300m slope. Great fun to be there every week with friends. Doing slalom and carving training there. 20min drive for me and i get a monthly pass so in a few weeks time i will be pretty much living at the indoor slope when I'm not at work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
st_lupo Posted April 22, 2018 Report Share Posted April 22, 2018 Its the time of year that I’ve got to start thinking about riding duck and getting out the 90hp rope tow. Several hundred nautical miles of runs (before you hit Denmark). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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