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Which cants are you using?


BadBrad

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I was just wondering which cants most folks were using these days. Jack's tech article (http://www.bomberonline.com/articles/canting.cfm) recommends starting at 3 degrees front and rear (most front toe lift and rear heel lift rather than canting). But I see lots of used TD2s for sale here with 3 & 6 degree disks, so I'm guessing that lots of people are using 3 front & 6 rear. So this is sort of a survey since I'm curious what most folks are using.

I have been using Burton raceplates for many years. For the past several years I rode with a little front toe lift and a little more rear heel lift, using the shims under the toe/heel blocks, with narrow stances of 16-17". I tried this with a wider stance but wasn't comfortable and got wavy heelside turns, so I went with a 7 degree rear cant and a little front toe lift. I recently bought some used TD2s to get some more cant/lift options, and I was just trying to figure out where to start.

So, what are you all using?

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3 and 3 for me.

Lots of conflicting advice on the 'net for newbies. Some places say to start double-flats, some say 0f 3r, and some say double 3s.

I posted a Want to Buy in the classifieds here for a pair of TD2s, asking for double flats. I am so lucky that my seller tossed in two 3s in addition to the flats. Turned out that I could dial in with, and only with, double 3s with my HSP boots. I'm a bit curious about how a 6 disk on the back foot would feel.

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I tried most every combination starting with pre-insert sims 0/2.5/5 degree plates, burton 7* & various settings on unicants & cateks. I've pretty much settled on 3-3 inward no heel or toe lift. I'd rather ride too little cant than too much.

never tried outward cant, my knees hurt just thinking about it:eek:

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I ride with 'no cant' on Burton race plates at 60/60, but use asymmetrical forward lean and boot collar lean settings to achieve the same effect as cants. This lets me stay very low on the board still, which I really like. I'm using old Burton Fire boots, and usually ride with my front foot set at 2 and my rear foot at 3. (The boots have settings 1,2,3,4 with 4 being the most aggressive forward lean) I think each of these notches is 5 degrees of forward lean.

The thing that made a much bigger difference to my riding last year was to finally realize that when I carved, my lower legs were applying pressure to the boot collars at different times. One little adjustment of that magic boot collar tilt screw, and many years of chatter disappeared from my heelside carves.

My (long-winded) point is that you can do a lot with most boots. The angle between your foot and lower leg will be different front and back, though, and you can't achieve heel and toe lift in quite the same way.

Works for me, but I'd be curious to play with matching 3 degree TD 3's!

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3f, all inward cant

3r, all heel lift.

I'm not sure what the reasoning behind that setup was, but it seems to work for me. Probably 3f inward cant just because that's the way I am used to riding from the original TD1s, and 3r heel lift to make it so that rotating my hips to the nose on the heelsides doesn't screw up the edge angle near the back foot too badly.

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It is interesting to see all the choices. I've ridden Burton raceplates for years and recently got some used TD2's, mainly for the increased cant/lift options. I set them up with 3 degree front, combo toe lift and cant, and 3 degree rear, all heel lift, based on Jack's article. But standing on the board with that setup I feel like I'd be more comforable with more rear cant, so I might go with 3 front/6 rear.

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It is interesting to see all the choices. I've ridden Burton raceplates for years and recently got some used TD2's, mainly for the increased cant/lift options. I set them up with 3 degree front, combo toe lift and cant, and 3 degree rear, all heel lift, based on Jack's article. But standing on the board with that setup I feel like I'd be more comforable with more rear cant, so I might go with 3 front/6 rear.
Just an FYI... if you were using the 7 degree cants that came with the race plate... they are a 70 degree cant angle if you want to replicate the same angles on your TD2s
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Just an FYI... if you were using the 7 degree cants that came with the race plate... they are a 70 degree cant angle if you want to replicate the same angles on your TD2s

Really? I didn't know that. I thought they were 90 degrees. The Carver's Almanac also says 90 degrees.

I actually rode the raceplates flat with just a little front toe lift and a little more rear heel lift, but that was with a very narrow stance width. I tried that with a wider stance width and shallower angles on a wider board, and I got wavy heelside turns until I put the 7 degree cant on the rear binding.

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