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colintkemp

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colintkemp last won the day on September 20 2019

colintkemp had the most liked content!

Details

  • Location
    San Francisco, CA
  • Home Mountain/Resort?
    Sugar Bowl, Squaw, Alpine
  • Occupation?
    Attorney
  • Current Boards in your Quiver
    Kessler KST metal top 185 (w/ Apex v2)
    Coiler NSR (metal) 182 (w/ S-Flex)
    Kessler KST white top 180 (w/ Apex duckbill)
    Kessler KST metal top 180 (w/ Hangl)
    Volant 173 NOS, never drilled
  • Current Boots Used?
    Head Strato Pro (28)
  • Current bindings and set-up?
    Regular foot
    Toe/heel lift; no cants
    TD2 and OS2 - generally 62/62 degrees
  • Snowboarding since
    1993
  • Hardbooting since
    1993

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  1. What barryj said. Son started ski team at Palisades (fka Squaw) today. trained SL on stubbies. They were hiking for 50 yards of snow under Red Dog chair (not spinning). I spend 3 hours in locker playing with bindings on my 180 and 185 KSTs. I'm still a 12 year old.... I have not been around here much--just busy (and skiing a lot (sorry)). Anyways, I hope all are well. Good to see familiar names. PS - well done Odd Job. So jealous.
  2. Oh, how this made me smile this a.m.... I hope all are well.
  3. Sorry to thread-jack, but just want you to know this puts a smile on my face. I raced for Meadows c.1993-95, back with Anton Pogue, etc. (not that I was remotely at his level). Fun to read about you setting (and ripping) those pitches I still remember. Jealous (not that I can complain about our season at Squaw). Take care.
  4. Here is my follow up, with what I heard from Apex (cut/paste from an email exchange): "So its not a problem to cut the front off, so long as you leave enough room for your binding/boot to be fully supported by the nose. To cut it off, the best way is to use a cut off wheel in a die grinder. Assuming you do it out side and with the appropriate mask on. The resin may smell when you cut it with an abrasive cutter, but its the best way to make nice clean cuts without a CNC router. Carbon fiber destroys HSS or Bi metal bandsaw blades so unless you have an old blade you don't care about, abrasive cutting is the best way. Then sand the cut area with fine sandpaper to smooth off the end so you don't risk getting splinters." When I do it (sometime after this season), to get the right "shape," I plan to: put some tape across the V1 nose (thanks Lowrider for the great suggestion), take a V2 and lay it top-against-top across the V1, and then use a sharpie to trace/outline the V2 nose shape on the V1. Obviously, be careful if you do it, and you're doing it at your own risk (just like I will be). I'd be surprised if any express or implied warrant on a V1 survives all these years later, but I would think cutting the duckbill voids just about any warranty. Also, I'm not telling anyone they should do this (nor was Apex telling me that I should do this (merely that I could); rather, I'm just sharing the info I have.
  5. Oh, sorry--yes, when I ride that setup, the duckbill hits/flexes with the board big time. I thought that was expected/intended.
  6. You can cut. I've talked with Apex to confirm. The only reason not to that I've heard is that some of the 2010ish KSTs were built to be ridden with the v1 (hence the good comment above about the new stiffer noses), so not having the duckbill might change how those boards ride, or worse. Indeed, that is the only reason I have not cut the duckbill that I have; it's on a 2010 KST that was specifically designed for it, so I have concerns about folding the nose. I ride V2 on my other KSTs, and will cut the db once I move it off that board. PM of you want to discuss. I can dig up my emails with Apex to revall what they recommended for how to cut, etc.
  7. I'm interested. PM me if things don't work with Charles. Thanks.
  8. Erazz, that is beautiful. Wow. Enjoy.
  9. Wolf, Sorry, but I need to pass. Someone else will be luck to get these gems.
  10. Wait... "I didn't inhale" might actually be right...? Anyways, thanks for posting Jack. I was wondering about timing for PGS.
  11.  Hi if you're any reason you do not like the apex plate you just bought, please let me know. I am looking for one like that. Thanks. 

    Fred

  12. Classic. Count on Jack to call my BS! Maybe I'm the slow kid, but the UPZ's apparent heel lift it not so apparent to me. Indeed, to the contrary, I even felt a bit "flat" at 3/3, and wanted to get a bit more comfortable . So, I threw a 6 on the back of my two "go to" boards (black 180 KST [middle] and metal 185 KST ("the meat hammer") [far right]). I really like it. So that is why I'm at 3/6. But I wanted to stop tinkering--I had spent hours in the tuning room and was just sick of it (and, moreover, I realized I have no more 6s, just extra 3s). So, that might be the real reason; I simply can't go 6/6... (Does anyone ride 6 front, 3 back?) On the UPZ topic (and sorry for the thread jack), does anyone have problems with getting a good, tight fit (bail/boot fit) using UPZs and TD2s? I ask because, while I love my TD3s (which are now on my black KST, not the Coiler), I actually had my rear boot release on the meat hammer on Monday morning. Luckily I was just gently getting from point A to B with my young kids skiing, so I just stopped myself and clipped back in. But, wow, it made me quite worried (worried enough that I switched boards). A bail release on the meat hammer while riding hard would be a disaster. I'm debating putting some OS2s on it until I can find someone selling TD3 standards. (PS: thanks to drschwartz, I'm getting an Apex for the Coiler; so in due course I'll post a detailed review of 180 KST vs. 182 NSR vs 185 KST, all with Apex v2.)
  13. I rode HSP at 3 front, 3 back. Now, this season on UPZ, I'm 3 front, 6 back. I too am tempted to try 6, 6. But I'm still getting used to the new boots, so thinking i want to stick 3, 6 just so I'm not changing too much at once.
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