terekhov

story: almost perfect binders ride-wise (I own a pair, don't ride em very often though), but some 10yrs ago I have catastrophic failure - front binding disconnected at speed from undertaker198 in deep pow..... threaded part simply disintegrated off front disk, so disk stays on board under snow, and binding was on my boot. adrenalinic experience in deeps at 40+kmh, from almost fresh bindings.. had ordered Alu CNCed replacement :)

if one sportsman earns $5M and other of almost same class $10000 - there IS corruption. when olympics gave on "amateurs only" status back in 80ies - there's nothing other than corruption then let's praise haakon for ultimately snowboardish position in 1998.

_modern_ olympics is a one great scam, so banning someone from it is a nice present from heaven ;) and all of professional sports is medically-powered, so decision on russia is all about politics - coz big sport is a big money and nothing more than big industry so - why bother? let it ride.

there's not any respectable - comparable to coilers of old, for example - durability in alu boards. if you want to "abuse" your board thru powerful driving (with occasional rock strike..) - sure you would replace them far more frequently than non-alu boards if you want board to live loooong time (without ride deteoration), like old coilers or pogos - stay away from alu, like pogo' did back in 2000s when they turned off alu construction idea

leash have many very useful usage patterns, so I try to always be with it. problem that I have lotta more binders than GOOD useful leashes :)

yeah, 11-19 seems like dreamy-sweet! I own my custom wonderful bruce' masterpiece coiler 196sg superboard with radius like 15-44 (?.. it's only my guess, but tail is almost straight) - it carve charms, and speed stability is second to none

one of greatest UNIVERSAL softie board - my friend owes me a lot of days on his custom 176 summit (classic camber, ca 2007+-) - and I rode even icy BX courses on it, and love it lotta more than my pair of f2 eliminators. if you want a board that will not suck in almost ANY freeride situation - here it is - you can carve ice and next day bomb steep bottomless trees on it. 167 is not for 200lbs imho, though

never saw boheme boards here or in reality.... and now I have some to test at last - custom wide'n'stiff boheme valdez 174

a coupla more words, please. at least - waist, ~radius, dest. rider weight, general idea looks interesting, but.. add: and if any comparisons with humiliated undertaker - i'll understand as I rode 3 of them ;)

ideally I want glass 177 with low mileage

no boot better than HSP, ever ;) I guess (pics of problem will help for diag) your problem is because you use soft rubbery heel with bail bindings: that setup SURELY break off heel ledge sooner or later - I saw a lot of best boots ever broken due to riding them with softish heel pads... after that usually you can use your boot happily with INTEC bindings. if you use strati - NEVER use rubbery soft heels, use plastic heels only (you can use INTEC heels as hard heels with bail bindings if you have no original hard heels, but new HSPs have two - soft/hard - heel/toe pads in box from factory)

it is burton freestyle model from late 90ies. flimsy as hell per se.

sure it is!

that tree ride scene is ultimately stellar. ck was great pilot!

am i correct - is that's hardboots in straps? cool solution :) btw - what kind of boots there are?

I have some old pogo overdose 158 ca. 1996 (my first ever pogo out from many), completely "broken in" (I bought it in that state for some small money), so almost without camber and 0.3mm edges left... and - wonder! - she's have that triple base convex geometry on nose and tail - so flat between bindings, but progressively convex'er till ends -- when laying flat - edges at contact points is 1+ mm up. and it carves and rides wonders at that, with great rebound, and i almost love that! never have ridden bataleon, but for my surfy-carvy style riding i see no problem in that layback carve entry-exit of convexed base

it's always a strange feeling that when someone lays extended in toeside carve - it goes too sitted-down overrotated posture in petty heelside. maybe you need to base heelside posture on dragging both scapulas? ;)

just do nice joint - and with that provocative music - look that in loop for loooong minutes until you get THE flow. and, just read author's description on u tube - there's answer for you there :) and, ... that's the best freeriding which I saw on video in that season. stoke!

for me it's looks like pretty nice writing and surely not wining - just a piece of established history from one of snowboarding' world champions. and who can surely RIDE: not so bad for 50yo boy! :)

IMHO we need that here for history's sake: https://medium.com/@chriskarol/riding-the-beast-cad5a6bc9460#.1bq25xu2l

+1. mismatching board vs. conditions is a GREAT skill extender. you only can progress if you overcome your comfort zone, and mismatching board is one of the options just for that PS for last 2 seasons oes 164fc is da BEST freeride board for all conditions until 30+ cm of powder - coiler 177am then, until 1+ m of powder - when it's time for some powder cruisers

never mind, it's cool russianism. here you MUST ride in particular style to be called a carver at all :) first question when two carvers met is "in which style do you carve?" - with allowed options are: bomber, extreme carving, racing STYLE, and pump.

i think it's not alu, it's all other kessler' innovations since 2004 and trickled into other vendor boards then - other than metal - which count most for ride & edgehold. if you can test board like donek freecarve ca 2001, but made with metal (compensated for longitudinal stiffness due to metal) - imho it will be no fun at all, and new geometry board - done like it is in 2016 but without alu - is a thiiing

my vote is for oakley fire iridium polarized filter (in any frame) for high elevation OR sunny weather - only polarization gives you THAT view of sunny groom velvet...

nice rarity! and no metal is the future.