Jack M

This has been on my "to do" list for years. I've got the whole movie "up here" (points to noggin). Unfortunately due to family and career constraints, if I'm going to do it, I'll have to get funding because I can't take vacation time to do it. Oh, and anyone got a good video camera? Bonus if you have a steady-cam and a snowmobile. This year is out, obviously. Next year is ECES, so I could do it 2011 (and put off SES yet again). Talented carvers, you know who you are, make sure you have a week free in March then.

I don't see why not. Bruce has said that the metal by itself isn't what makes the boards damp.... http://www.bomberonline.com/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=214343&postcount=54 and http://www.bomberonline.com/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=214591&postcount=79

who's in? I'll be solo from 9:30 to 12. Kid duty afterwards.

I haven't ridden a short Coiler, but I can tell you the Madd 158 is a good tool for that job description. I would like to see if a 160 metal board could match the Madd for ice grip and be even easier to ride. I may have one built.

Welcome home brother! I would vote for something longer for Whistler. Big terrain there.

at least it's symmetrical for a change! if he gets $1000 (he won't), I'll have to sell my ebay-illiterate buddy's Safari for him, on consignment of course.

uhh... ok, I swear I did NOT wet myself yesterday. not sure what that mess is...

you're on the right track, heel lift & toe lift with no cant is a good place to start. http://www.bomberonline.com/articles/canting.cfm

WTF! Those are 170s, bitches! :D 15m radius - fun! Yeah, I use them with the kids, 6 and 3. You can post the full picture now John, showing my tyke in front of me. I force my T700s in there and I have to reach down and manually lift the binding levers up to lock in. It's sketchy, but I have released from them appropriately once. If anything I think I am in greater danger of releasing than not releasing. But I don't push any limits on them. It works alright.

8, huh? the sidecut radius is 12.5m. Note, that number is a hair larger than the largest radius turn the board will carve. http://www.bomberonline.com/store/boards/volkl_renntiger.cfm

Nice job! Exciting game. OK, is it just me or does Big Ben look like Will Ferrel?

Enzo, great to meet and ride with you... to the rest of T32, worry not, you were represented nobly.

Finally brought my 12 year old soft setup to the free room at the dump this fall. I'm all hard now and loving it. Fortunately the wider (21cm) Schtubby does it all!

Agreed, and if the no-overhang method gives you crazy high angles, your board is not wide enough.

for carving in softboots, your stance width should be an inch or two wider than shoulder width, and your angles should be greater than 0 such that no part of your boot/binding hangs out past the edge of the board when viewed from above.

First it was Prior in the 90s. Then at the early ECES's 2 out of every 3 boards was a Donek. Then Madd came roaring back from the dead and seized the buzz. Then Prior came out with the first widely-available metals. Then BV quit his job and went full time, eliminating the 2-year wait list so the gospel of Coiler is spreading. Now Donek has perfected and released their metals... edit - I'm just talking about North America.

motorcycle helmet = waaaaay too heavy. A good ski/snowboard helmet weighs no more than a wool hat.

Go to a Rite Aid and get a Neti Pot, some Emergen-C (not their store brand version), and some Zicam nose swabs. That will stop the cold in it's tracks and get you over it quick.

niiiiiice. you'll love it.

get a PTC tune and you'll realize. a waxed base is not nearly as important unless you are racing.

On Martin Luther King Day I had my Schtubby in 18" of fresh. It ruled.

Agree 100%. During my instructing years, I taught a handful of never-evers on hardboots. They were all skiers, and they *all* had an easier time than almost all of the softbooter never-evers I taught. I've also taught my wife, sister, and father. My wife started on a Stat 5, sister on an Alp 56, father on a FP 157. They all learned how to turn fine, but then soon hit a wall. Switching them to all-mtn carving decks was the cure. However... if you're already a softbooter, there's no point in trying hardboots until you can carve your softies. then you're ready. Enjoy!

I agree. However on that note, when I was at SES 05, I demo'd several boards. Coiler, F2, your Fawcett Burton, Prior, Madd... I stepped off each of them and said yup, it works! And that's all. Aside from the obvious stuff like waist width and sidecut radius, I found it very hard to tell if any of them were any better than anything else on the hero snow. Ironically the only one that turned me right off was the 174 4WD. Too short sidecut.

No problem at all. Anything online unless it's specifically protected or watermarked is fair game, imo. Sweet board, but too long radius for learning carving. 15 or 16m, iirc. I'd rather see him on a F2 177.

Yeah, that's the whole point of the norm. Glad you found it helpful. It is a big deal. If you can truly carve your softboots on the greens, changing edges before the board points downhill and all, then you're ready for hardboots. But if you can't do that, you should really get it down before switching. Why go to unfamiliar more responsive equipment to learn a new skill when you can do it on familiar equipment that is more forgiving? That would make no sense, and only make it harder. That would be like riding your bicycle and deciding you want to learn how to wheelie, so you switch to a motorcycle first.