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ur13

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  • Location
    NYC
  • Home Mountain/Resort?
    Central Park
  • Occupation?
    Designer
  • Snowboarding since
    1984
  • Hardbooting since
    1984

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  1. I'm sure some will appreciate that my original Madd 158 is still my main ride. Granted I don't ride much anymore so it's more board than I will need. I still love it. It did get new Cateks a few years ago. Oh and hi...it's been a while.
  2. Nope, everything has been sold. Sorry.
  3. Everything has been sold...thanks.
  4. Oh the memories of this board. It still looks hot today. Back when this thing was out it was the "virus" of it's day. Hot, sexy, European and a bit of a different ride than anything you bought in the USA. I loved the logicals, I had three, maybe the best asym I ever rode (even though they were a PITA in a straight line due to the shifted camber).
  5. I love the fact that the Avalanche has imprints from the old A-plates that Damien Sanders and the like used to ride on those, I also dig seeing the old 5-hole Burton pattern on the "Mystery Air", and I find it funny that the K2s look to have haggard t-bolts on them (which they ALWAYS did back then). Otherwise... do kids still ride Forum's now-a-days? I thought their hey-day was about 10 years ago. Oh, and Jack - Gyrator's were deemed the "poser" board in my circles back then too...but more because they rode worst than a plywood ironing board (and yes I have a Avalanche "Kick" in the era). Sure we were all Burton boys back then, but those K2s were horrible even for the era.
  6. Good meeting you. Enjoy the board. Let's carve some turns next season.
  7. By default a set of OS2s come with 4 long and 4 short set screws which by default give you toe/heel lift. You can back the long set screws back enough that you can get the binding as low as having 4 set screws. it's just you might have boot interference is you want to go as low as it seems you wish too. Thus I'd recommend getting 4 extra shorts. Actually I used to think it didn't get simpler than TD1s 4 screws (sans dics to board). But with the OS2 all you need to do is back out the 4 set screws 3/4 a turn and then you can hand loosen the kingpin generally, if not it's low torque to take it out. Then you simply drop that plate on another board, with the disc and powerplate mounted already, tighten the kingpin and back the set screws in 3/4 a turn and you are done. It sounds more complex here then it really is in practice. It is simpler than TD1s 4 screws, or even TD3s 3 screws. Even if you are moving the powerplate in this case it is still simpler. Not to mention on hill lift/cant microadjustment is a HUGE plus. I thought I was 6/6 Bomber cant discs for years. Only with OS2s did I realize I was anything but. More like 8* rear/2* front with outward cant in the rear and 0 cant up front.
  8. Or just don't use any washers, short kingpin and get 4 extra short set screws from Catek and you have a very very low binding in the OS2, even with the D3, still with some cant/lift adjustment. Overall it is just slightly higher than a Ibex/Burton plate. I wouldn't say I like being close to the board with a low binding but I don't like a really high binding in most conditions. The OS2 gives you the ability to pick. Many many options. I used to loath Cateks due to how complicated assembly was, how high they had to be and difficult matching angle cant/lift adjustment were. But it is mostly all fixed in the OS2 design. I was really won over by them this year and can transfer setups from one install to another with minor issues.
  9. Talk to Fin, I'm sure he has some laying around. Or ask around here, I'm sure someone has them. At the very least you can get some Urethane and cut it down to size. I've even seen people use skateboard truck bushings (Khiro makes some that would suit this). I'd go for the Mistal as well, for the same reasons someone else here said. Those Burtons were useless. The Sims not much better. If you try rocking those TD1s like that on any of your options in this thread you'll crush those boards. All the boards you have in this thread were the ones TD1s used to kill. Unsupported TD1s will rip them to shreds these many years later. Even with someone your weight.
  10. You know riding TD1s without the bumpers is a solid way to break a board or tear out the inserts. You've got a big unsupported lever there. F2s might have been stout back in the day (compared to a Burton or Sims) but not that stout.
  11. If we are going to get this philosophical here maybe we should all open our copies of these books and start the debate.
  12. Personally. I don't like carbon rims. I ride some Phil hubs laced to Open pros for road. I even ride a handbuilt steel frame. None of it is bleeding edge tech but it costs way more than a $1500 snowboard. And for leeding edge cycling gear. Even as a hardcore rider, not racer, a top of the line carbom frame/wheelset will last a powerful rider 2 years tops. If you race it's less....
  13. $1500 buys you a a solid wheelset (say high/mid range Campag or Shimano hubs or Phil hubs, DT Swiss pokes and Mavis Open pro Rims with Conti Gp4000 clinchers tires or some such thing) good for day to day training duty that is still open to rocks, ruts, pavement, pot-hole, and catostrophic damage. A nice tubular carbon Zipps will double to triple that, even before you add in the powertap SL. If the wheelset analogy won't do it for you. Try getting a custom built frame under $2000... The point is. While $1000-$1500 is alot to drop for a snowboard for most (even me) it's the price to have the latest and greatest right now and compared to other sports this level of tech comes at a small (comparatively) price. But again...you don't need the latest and greatest bleeding edge whatever... to have fun, be a "core" rider or even ride at a high level.
  14. Is anyone a cyclist here? $1500 will get you a mid-range decent wheelset, or a low end frame, or half a mid range component group. Road and mountain are in the same realms now as well. Hell, even a top of the line composite slalom race skateboard with race trucks, bearings and wheelsets with all the cutting edge tech is around $1000-1200 for everything. Anyone ride motorcycles here? Auto cross? Kayaks? Sailing? $1500 is a drop in a never ending bucket for those "sports". I do remember the days of the $500 Burton complete... but those days left us a long time ago. Sure you can still buy a $500 complete snowboard...but no one wants to ride that here. Given $1500 buys you a cutting edge, top of the line, F1 level technology (respectively) gear isn't too bad at all. Especially when we all play in a niche sport that is increasingly gear and tech driven made (mostly) by small (generally custom) manufacturers that are not making huge margins on the gear they make you (think of what it costs Burton to make the $500 complete and then the margin they make on it selling it to shops....sadly that will never be possible with alpine snowboarding). The benefit of all this "top of the line" gear out currently is that in a few years time the bleeding edge will trickle down to more moderately priced gear. Plus you have all the demo and used gear out there to pick up at lower prices. Sure, even when the economy is good, $1500 is pushing most people's ability to participate at the level they want too given life's complexities and responsibilities for most. But in the bigger picture $1500 is not unreasonable for the level of tech we are now able to get in our gear. Not everyone needs the latest and greatest. The "old stuff" still "works" for most. Thinking you have to have the newest and greatest to be a "core" rider, or even a good rider, is laughable. But it is sure nice to have it and the price is what it is. Pay to play with anything gear/tech driven...
  15. It is currently taken (I think)...but you are next in line (If you have a USA shipping address, sorry)
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