Eboot

Thanx and you too Turkey done, tummy stuffed No snow

Indeed

Like New only molded twice. These are a taller liner that provides more leverage. They are too tall for me, only tried them once, sitting since I bought them from @Shred Gruumer in 2019 Unused footbeds are included. https://intuitionliners.com/shop/sbc-wrap/

Ninth house was great it lead me to discover the Scholomance series by Naomi Novak, the first book is A Deadly Education : a novel This is not Hogwarts! Very good Bob’s.

W-VU 1970: original German plates?

I like the intermixing of hard with soft.

Angrry 160, Contra 174, NSR 185 SG Soul 159 - soft Never Summer Summit 159 - powder waiting for new Beckmann footbed and … waiting for snow

I used a solid wooden base with slots cut on for the baes of the board, angled backwards Top is a composite material with slots for the boards to rest in. My design is not optimal as the boards are forced to the font of the bottom stand to be able to stand vertically, hence the need for the angled base and the strap to keep them in.

Will post a pic of my vertical standing rack tomorrow. Below are some Previous threads.

Thinking about this further: cross over / cross under refers to the lateral movements required to change edge unweighting refers to the vertical movement required to take weight off the board to allow lateral movement to take place (understanding that lateral movement can still take place with the board on the snow)

Having seen the terms referenced on the forum previously I started searching for clarification. @Beckmann AG's comments on this thread make the most sense: However i believe that one can cross over or cross under for both unweighting by lifting or by dropping, which the German terms refer to. As I understand the terms provided: Cross under: the board is moved under the center of mass Cross over: the center of mass is moved over the board The process of unweighting with upward or downward motion sets the next turn up differently, as I understand it: Unweighting with lift: legs are straight at the start of the turn, after changing edges, and then one compresses through the turn before straightening the legs approaching the next edge change, reducing downward leg force through the turn Unweighting by dropping: legs are compressed at the start of the turn, after changing edges, and then are extended through the turn until straight, increasing downward leg force through the turn. Is there a correlation between the "German" terms (hoch: with lift, tief: dropping) and cross over / cross under? Secondly for aggressive carving I am assuming that unweighting by dropping at cross over is more effective at reducing turn radius because of the additional leg force through the turn?

Thank you!

Back in the 90s i was a snowboard instructor in Switzerland, teaching mostly in German. At the time carving technique was documented quite well by the Swiss Snowboard association of the day. They taught 2 approaches to changing edges when carving: with "hochentlastung": body momentum traveling upwards at the change with straight legs and feet off the ground with "tiefentlastung": body collapsing suddenly downwards, lifting the feet off the ground as legs were bent I have never learned the English equivalent of these descriptions. In the day, shoulder rotation lead each turn, rather than angulation. In the last few years I have played around with both and am curious as to who uses which method today, (and when)?

Sounds like short term money thinking, long term bad user experience. Eventually every one will buy these tickets and they are back to square 1. I would imagine that most mountains make their profits on day tickets, this will drive that down.

My dad had an electrical background: when unsure if a wire (220V, not high voltage) was live he would always brush it with the back of his off hand. If he was shocked his fingers would not spasm closed on the wire.

Agreed: also the redesign of the chassis to accommodate the battery etc. I have seen quite a few conversions using Tesla components from wrecks, wondering how the mix and match of brands is going to work? ICE crate +trannie is the opportunity cost of this, which then makes the difference not soooo big.

Recently saw this - it starts opening up some interesting thought options, have been concerned about adding another ICE V8 to the environment at this point. Surprised at the price! https://electrek.co/2021/11/03/ford-is-selling-mach-e-crate-motors-to-promote-custom-ev-conversions-like-this-f-100-concept/

Price reduced to shipping and a donation: sold

Wishing him strength. Remind him to enjoy the experience!

So sorry to hear that Ladia!

@Corey what did you do at the bottom of the pads: remove the original film completely or slice it off at the width of the Velcro and leave the balance on? Velcro and stomp pads in hand.

@Beckmann AGis your man for this

Thanx Q I have a new Ram 1500 but the measurements are really relative to the truck bed. I have a 5' 7" bed with a Rambox so the slots you see in my first pic are consistent across the bed - this may not be true if you have wheel arches in the back. My Process: locate slots near the front and back that provide sufficient distance between them to allow for your bindings measure the distance from wall to wall, left to right (I removed 1/2 inch and then chamfered the wood to slide in snug) I happened to have some 2x6s which I used, you could as easily use 2x4s cut the planks to the required length and then chamfer to fit snugly fit the planks in the bed and then take your longest board and lie it on edge across the planks, with the one end in the front (closest to cab) right hand corner and the bed closed. This will provide the minimum angle required to accommodate the length of your longest board. Adjust the angle to provide as much slack front and back as you are comfortable with, and then mark planks keeping the same angle, move the board so that it is snug in the back left hand corner and mark the planks. the area between the marks on each plank is the area you can use for dowels, assuming you want to accommodate longer boards determine how many boards you want to be able to carry at a time on the rack (say x) and divide the length between marks by x-1: this provides the distance required available between boards for the desired number. Ensure that this distance is sufficient for your boards standing next to each other with bindings attached. I allowed for 6 inches between boards giving me 5 boards. After removing the planks I marked the right hand side starting point of the first board on each plank, then measured and marked the 6" marks across the length (5 marks on each plank) I drew a center line of the plank along the length between the marks after some exploration i determined that leaving 1/2" between the dowels holding the boards was sufficient I marked off a second mark at 1" after each 6" mark: using 1/2 inch dowels this would leave 1/2" between dowels I then predrilled each mark to 2 inches depth and then drilled the dowel holes to 2" depth using a 12.5 mm drill (just less than 1/2") I cut the front long dowels to be 12" (10 + 2) and the back short dowels 5" (3+2) I glued the dowels in place after tapping them soundly to ensure no air bubbles were caught in the spaces at the bottom (the fit should be pretty tight) finally i ordered some 3/8" rubber which i cut (3" x 1.5") and drilled similarly to above (1" centers) and 12.5mm drill, sliding the small rubber mats over the dowels to provide a base for standing the edge on. Let me know if you have any questions and good luck.

Rack Completed. They just slide into the pickup bed side wall, offset to allow for birds longer than the bed. Final step will be to determine if any wall padding is required, or straps to hold the boards down. @corey: great idea, works perfectly

And I was looking at what looks like soft boots, strange angles and the board riding backwards