nextcarve

@crackaddict... and I just wanna have fun :-))) You do not seem to have noticed, that this softboot carver doing "eurocarving" (we tend not to think in continental terms and call this extreme carving) is not me ;-)) @Neil Gendzwillwas pointing out, that "We're talking low binding angle softboot carving here" and I showed you a rotated softboot carver. Probably not a good example for the actual help of rotation. I just saw a guy struggling and leaving pretty wide pencil lines (if not even catters :-)) and loosing his edge in the steep. Therefore I thought I might help, because I don't have this issues and I also know softboot carvers who don't. Both rotation and down unweighting are just tools and in the steep they are helpful to reach a more even distribution of the forces on your edge during the turn and avoid peeks, which are one of the causes for cater or/and loosing the edge. You don't have to overrotate and lay down your whole body into the snow like those extreme carvers do. What I learned; never post videos of others, even if I'm too lazy. Therefore I now posted the above foto and the following video of me (first rider me and the rest of my crew) - now cattering, I promise ;-))

Yep softboot, no rotation possible there ;-))

Well If you apply too much inclination, slamming your but into the ground, the pressure is on your bottom instead the edge and your loosing it (proven in the video above). By adding the right amount of rotation, leading to a more angulated position, you avoid this problem. And I did not say to apply rotation too early, but early enough avoiding the above. To prove, that you'll still have all the edge angle you need, here some footage of us riding our 20m+ SCR GS Boards in the steep, with rotation and not loosing the edge : PS: By the way the example image is captured from this K-Carving lessons about BBP here (subs in English): https://youtu.be/Pj3S0DNh8qY

Interesting setup. What kind of T-shaped supports did you use to mount the springs on? Can you still switch between springs and walk?

Was watching your steep rides again. While your riding is really great, I nevertheless take the liberty of suggesting a small change in your backside turn You may try to rotate your pelvis earlier and more, in the direction of the turn in order to establish a balanced body position (BBP), leading to a cleaner carve without any catering. More pelvis rotations meaning to keep the ass off the slope, by bringing it over the board. Something like this:

I'm absolutely sure you'll make it and am exited to get to see it. May I ask you, why you set up your youtube channel as a channel for kids? I would like to be notified about your latest videos, but the restrictions of channels for kids is not allowing this function. Same at this spot for me: https://schilthorn.ch/41/de/Steilste_Piste It's got 88% (41°), is pretty narrow and I'm quite frightened, but exited at the same time, when carving it with my GS.

Virus Isolator plates may be an alternative: https://shop.virus-snowsports.com/collections/plates

If I look at the "Bend it" thread ... ... a flat floor might not be ideal to setup your heel/toe lift. Therefore this is a valid question to ask. I ride on a flat binding setup, but I have the BTS springs set up that way, that cuff of my back boot is a bit less upright then the front one. In combination with the springs I have good mobility for the motions needed while riding and feel comfortable. But in the end you have to find out what works for you and the tools of lift and canting of your bindings and boots give you the tools. Your preferences may also change, when your riding evolves.

Coming from Track 700, I just had my second day in my new UPZ RC11. Before the bootfitter had to widen the shell at the inner and outer ankle bones, which helped a bit. Now I have problems with the original liner, causing me pretty strong pain at the shin of the back leg. In the meantime I had to switch back to my Track 700 with Palau liners. No pain anymore. So I'm not yet convinced if "I should have bought UPZ!"

Looks like you applied some real world tiny planet effect on your board

Worth a try. Wonder if it helps. At least you can't lose.

Because it is a rare binding, I would mail SG for support: mail@sgsnowboards.com They should know best.

Don't know the weight of them, because I don't own them (yet). When I talked to the designer of the SG binding at our Moon & Carve event last year, he showed the details in person and you could see the better construction and materials they used. Noticeable difference is also, the sleds on the back and toe side for the adjustment to the boot sole length.

As an alternative to your F2's you may consider SG Performance Bindings. When I saw them first, I thought they where just some rebranded F2 with a different base plate. But no they are an all new construction, fixing the shortcomings of the F2 bindings, notably the weakness of the t-nuts when using canting/lift and stronger bails. ... and they offer a heel bail option with a lower profile (NW) for special race boots like Northwave Point, Mountain Slope and for Touring Skiboots.

Full acknowledge, especially considering me riding flat/flat with my F2 Titaniums . I get knee pain just by watching this. I think he tinkered this absurdity either to compensate a toe side skill deficit or/and to get more (irritated) viewers.

I just switched from Track 700 to UPZ RC11. They are clearly narrower at the ankle, fit more snugly than the Deeluxe and feel more direct. But I had ankle pain and had to open the buckles after every run (not so with the Deeluxe). Therefore, I gave them to the bootfitter, to widen the shell where the ankle bones peek out (hope that helps). Otherwise they're comfortable, I like the more direct feel and they are still not too stiff. The reason why they have five buckles is not clear to me and as the new RCR shows four are enough even for the racers. I even find it a drawback, because you have to fiddle more and at times they even clash and may pop open (also ankle buckle). I never had that problem with the Track 700, but I think you may have the same problem with your Track 425, because when you ride toe side, you bend the ankle of your back foot more than the front one and the buckles may clash and open up. Probably this happened, because after some time your BTS springs got softer and gave you more play. Maybe it helps, if you tighten the upper screw a bit more on your BTS.

Yoga is certainly good for (passive) flexibility. But what helped me is a mobility training called Kinstretch, which helped me to get better active/usable range of motion, body control and flexibility. I had severe hip pain, because of a hip dysplasia and was able to better it a lot with this kind of training. But one has to take responsibility for ones health and maintain a regular routine, instead of passing it on and ignore the signals of your body.

Important update We had to move our base for 2023 to another location, namely on the Elsigenalp at the double ski lift. The reason is a bigger ski race on the Metsch side with about 150-200 racers in the youth age. *By moving the base, the race will not get in the way with our participants*. On the Elsigenalp we'll have a reserved slope (race slope nr. 121).

Sorry @xacta168. Did not see your question. I just sold it.

There is no Deeluxe "Alpine" Track 325. Both are Deeluxe Track 325, where the black / red one is just an older generation of the latest black / white one. Aside from the different buckles they have different generations of moldable thermo liners (newer one is better imho) and may have minor differences in their plastics (flex).

Sorry but I have no experience with Bomber bindings, but I ride my F2 Titanium flat with no canting, heel or toe lift. The theory behind this setup is, that forces caused by canting wedges are hindering the board from bending/flexing (longitudinal), which is equally important for carving as the sidecut. The asymmetrical nature of a heel or toe lift, also leads to different edging angles on your heel or toe side, which in turn has an influence on how much you can edge up your board. But it also depends on your board. Narrower boards will need some heel or toe lift because of the different stance (also less effect on edging up the board). Or you may need some canting because of your physiology (knock knees or bowlegs). The most important is to achieve a natural position, where you can move freely and your stance has no negative effect on your musculoskeletal system.

Carving on a snowboarding is not only about the physics of edge(s) and COM. Having two feet fixed "vertical" on one board and pushing a single edge into the snow with your toes and heels requires quite different technique and body movement compared to skiing. That's why some of us need more or less practicing when starting with snowboarding, even if they are good skiers. Coming back to the topic; EC is also not any snowboarding style where you get closer to the snow. To me it's a certain technique, where you apply correct body position, rotation and push&pull while carving. I also think you can enjoy this technique more, if your equipment is adequate. A board with small sidecut radius will hinder you and you'll probably have less fun in practicing EC-technique.

The pure EC doctrine would be to use a Swoard board with Swoard bindings and Swoard UPZ boots I think it's a matter of taste which equipment you prefer. If you have a board with long enough sidecut radius and apply the EC technique correctly, it works with a wide range of boards. What works less well are boards with too small sidecut radius (e.g. slalom boards or short freecarvers). It should have a sidecut radius of at least 13m, with a flex matched to your weight and sportiness. With narrower boards (> 17cm waist) you also have to adjust the technique; less toe- / heelside, more sideways tipping; less rotation ... and of course you have very steep binding angles and certainly need a heel lift. My preferred setup is various giant slalom boards (Kessler Alpine 185, F2 Speedster Proto 185, Oxess RG 189 19-23, Oxess RG 185 19, Coiler NSR 189) with long sidecut radii. This results in beautifully elongated EC turns. As for the diversity, the driving technique must of course be adapted to the conditions of the slope. EC does not mean that you have to ride along the ground all the time, no matter if the slope is bumpy. EC technique can also be used very well with moderate angulation, see here:

Reminds me of being in the flow state

SG Soul or Soul Titan in the XT Versions would be a good, wide enough SB-Carver: https://www.sgsnowboards.com/snowboards/soul/