Colozeus Posted April 16, 2018 Report Share Posted April 16, 2018 Curious as to how you guys have setup your pow boards with hardboot bindings. Specifically, with lower angles, do you guys use the same amount of toe and heel lift? Do you use weird compound angles if using SW's or do you align the disks with your binding angles? I currently ride with 6 toe and 3 heel 60f/55r on my coiler nirvana, but i haven't been able to dial in my nomad with hardboots. Last time i tried it with hardboots (not in pow) it felt very awkward. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted April 16, 2018 Report Share Posted April 16, 2018 Limited experience here, but I left the cant rings where they normally are on narrower boards, but turned the top plates to suit board width. This meant I had more inward cant and less toe/heel lift. I meant it to be a rough starting point to be tinkered with later, but it felt good enough that I left it! I did move my UPZ forward lean 1 click more upright. i.e. My rear foot is normally at 59 degrees with a 40-degree cant angle (heel lift with outward cant) on a 20-cm board. On my powder board I leave the cant at 40 degrees but turn the binding to 35 degrees. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digger jr Posted April 16, 2018 Report Share Posted April 16, 2018 I’ve evolved to 55* front and 40* rear, 6* lift with No cant on front 3 or 4* with 1 F2 inward cant on rear . I’m using SW standard in front and F2 Intec RS in rear. How wide is you Nomad? I’m riding a 24.5 wide Undertaker and on harder snow it feels big/ wide. That all goes away in the pow. I ride very similar angles on my 20 cm wide Nirvana. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colozeus Posted April 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2018 Stock 159m, about 24.5 waist. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big mario Posted April 16, 2018 Report Share Posted April 16, 2018 I run the same configuration, center disk 10 degrees less than binding angle, on my 18cm boards I am at 70 on the front foot, and 63 on the back, with the center disk ~ 10 degrees less, giving me a bout 1.4 * out ward cant on the front 6* and .7on my 3* back, I adjust my binding angles to the width of the board I am riding, but maintain that 10* difference on the center disk ( <'s based on scott firestones cant calculator, In the aunt edna setting of course) mario Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueB Posted April 16, 2018 Report Share Posted April 16, 2018 Even when I rode TD bindings for carving, I never liked them for pow/freeride... Anyways, for carving on narrower boards I have just toe/heel lift and angle splay of 3° to 10°. On wide boards I have splay of 15°+ and add inward cant on the rear binding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barryj Posted April 16, 2018 Report Share Posted April 16, 2018 (edited) CZ I had a 6 cant disk in my TD3 SW SI pow setup but it was too much. A 3 and 3 is plenty for pow. ...and to the disdain of the pundits here I ride my normal 55/50 angles on my Pow board.......that I have on my every day work board...... but it's what I'm used to and works great for me. Also..... the biggest difference for me is in using a softer boot. My pow setup uses Track 325's. my hard charging setup uses Track 700's Try what's normal for you and adjust from there! Edited April 16, 2018 by barryj Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colozeus Posted April 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2018 Cool. Thanks for the responses. I'll have to experiment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philw Posted April 16, 2018 Report Share Posted April 16, 2018 (edited) I also use one setup for both backcountry powder and piste. It doesn't I think matter what recisely it is, and its boot specific. 45 parallel. I discovered that for resort Powder I need to have boot ends closer to the edges of the board or I can't deal with the base of the snow (which doesn't exist in Heli powder). So in that case I go as shallow as is needed by the board. Edited April 16, 2018 by philw Typo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted April 16, 2018 Report Share Posted April 16, 2018 35 minutes ago, philw said: the base of the snow (which doesn't exist in Heli powder). That sounds glorious. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveo Posted April 17, 2018 Report Share Posted April 17, 2018 (edited) On 4/17/2018 at 12:45 AM, Colozeus said: Curious as to how you guys have setup your pow boards with hardboot bindings. Specifically, with lower angles, do you guys use the same amount of toe and heel lift? Do you use weird compound angles if using SW's or do you align the disks with your binding angles? I currently ride with 6 toe and 3 heel 60f/55r on my coiler nirvana, but i haven't been able to dial in my nomad with hardboots. Last time i tried it with hardboots (not in pow) it felt very awkward. Don't ever expect the Nomad to carve like a dedicated carving board like your Nirvana. It is a powder specific board. It also has a long flappy nose and relative torsional noodleness. I love my Nomad in powder and trees, which is exactly what I had it built for, but when it comes to carving ... well ... I try not to mention it in the same sentence as 'carving'. Edited September 29, 2018 by daveo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveo Posted April 17, 2018 Report Share Posted April 17, 2018 22 hours ago, barryj said: ...and to the disdain of the pundits here I ride my normal 55/50 angles on my Pow board.......that I have on my every day work board...... but it's what I'm used to and works great for me. Yeah I know how you feel. I rode 60/55 for a long time in powder, but recently switched to 45/35 and much prefer it now I'm used to it in powder but also in trees where kicking the back leg out for manouverability can be desirable/advantageous. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barryj Posted April 18, 2018 Report Share Posted April 18, 2018 I really tried to like lower angles on a wider board........... it just hurts my knees and put's a big pull on my rear quad with anything less than 50 degrees. Yes, I'm a Mutant! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bumpyride Posted April 18, 2018 Report Share Posted April 18, 2018 51 front and 30 rear on a 251mm width. Forward, aft, and side to side, these angles give me best absorption with the knees and lateral directional changes (YMMV}. Cant angles are about 3 degrees both front and rear. My son uses identical angles, except he's goofy. ON a narrower board I'm at 60 and 40 for powder and bumps. Bring a screwdriver and change your angles to better suit your style. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveo Posted April 18, 2018 Report Share Posted April 18, 2018 21 minutes ago, barryj said: I really tried to like lower angles on a wider board........... it just hurts my knees and put's a big pull on my rear quad with anything less than 50 degrees. Yes, I'm a Mutant! How do you go in trees with those angles? Personally I find riding powder fine with steep angles, it's in the trees I struggled, so I think after reading (I think it was) @BlueB's posts regarding angles. I tried his suggested 45/30 and just felt more comfortable on 45/35 and rolled with it for powder/trees. On a Donek Nomad 21.5cm, which I think it does that sort of condition exceptionally well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barryj Posted April 18, 2018 Report Share Posted April 18, 2018 (edited) On 4/18/2018 at 9:10 AM, daveo said: How do you go in trees with those angles? No prob at all! In fact I prefer the trees/glades on a pow day! The waist on the Moss board are around 25. We need to get LB and BB in the trees to show him steep angles and plates on wide boards run just a good as lower angles!! Next ATC/TTC !! Edited April 23, 2018 by barryj Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigwavedave Posted April 18, 2018 Report Share Posted April 18, 2018 (edited) For soft and deep powder: Burton Fish, 25.8cm waist, Head/Blax step-in bindings (similar to F2) and softer hardboots than I use for carving for increased flexibility and softer input to the board. 50° front/35° rear ½" front toe lift / ¾" rear heel lift with inward cant (feels similar to 3° cant discs) Compared to my carving stick setup, a 1" wider stance and splay increased from 5° to 15°. Trial and error and tweaking on the hill got me to what feels comfortable. Seems pretty close to what many here are riding. I only get into deep powder about once or twice a year, so stance may still be evolving. I used a similar stance on a 24.5cm waist Nomad and a 3800 in the past. For baby pow (up to about 8-9") over groom, I'll ride 20.5-23.5cm waist carving sticks with steeper angles that get my heel and toe near the edge of the board. Edited April 18, 2018 by bigwavedave re-measured angles on Fish Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nils Posted April 26, 2018 Report Share Posted April 26, 2018 flat, flat flat: no canting or lift as usual Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philw Posted April 27, 2018 Report Share Posted April 27, 2018 18 hours ago, nils said: flat, flat flat: no canting or lift as usual What boots though - I need to ride flat with some, not with others.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nils Posted April 27, 2018 Report Share Posted April 27, 2018 3 hours ago, philw said: What boots though - I need to ride flat with some, not with others.. I use only TLT6 in powder and even in soft snow freecarving now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack M Posted September 29, 2018 Report Share Posted September 29, 2018 If you like toe lift while carving, you'll probably still need some toe lift on the front foot to offset some of the boot's built-in heel lift. Then if needed, blend in some inward cant until your knee feels good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beckmann AG Posted October 1, 2018 Report Share Posted October 1, 2018 Generally speaking, when you go to a flatter numeric binding angle, and a wider stance width, you're going to have more conflicts with the boot cuffs in the medial/lateral sense. Typically a rider will use inward canting to reduce that interference, but (unless the leg conformation indicates inward canting in general) that compromises ankle mobility, making it harder to 'float' the board under one's feet, which then prompts the rider to use a more flexible binding to reduce errant inputs to the board. If you want to prosper on a powder board in soft snow, you will find gains by using a specific boot with softer/modified cuffs, most likely in combination with a more elastic power strap. In the event you're fond of the 'Slash Gordon' mode, increase the splay angle by a few degrees. However, it's worth noting that when you're standing comfortably/ not fighting with the board, it's a lot easier/faster/more effective to use rebound to move the board around, rather than trying to kick the tail from place to place. Might seem counter-intuitive, but it's worth exploring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H2O Posted November 22, 2018 Report Share Posted November 22, 2018 On 4/26/2018 at 4:13 PM, nils said: flat, flat flat: no canting or lift as usual Me too Always! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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