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Another TD3 Base Plate Crack!


barryj

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Just found one hairline crack in my TD3 baseplate just to the right of the angle viewing slot!   Ugh!  ...and this has been on my Moss PQ60 which isn't even  my hard charging carving setup!!     fyi: This is on the front foot and my heel receiver is all the way back in the last set of holes...so heel receiver screws are as far away as possible.

I'm 6'2" and 225lbs too much and ride  TD3 SW SI's with 3 degree cant disk/toe lift in front and 3 degree heel lift on yellow E-rings with Track 425' boots.  These bindings are in their third season.                             Couldn't get a good photo of it so I hijacked a base plate photo and am pointing at crack area.   

Check Your Base Plates People!!             Anybody got a set of TD3 base plates to sell !!

TD3.jpg

Edited by barryj
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Presumably just where one of the countersunk M8 screws was sited? 

Confirms the overall message of my post from just under a year ago. TD3s are strong, but not immune to metal fatigue. My rear binding failed after 4 years of 1-2 weeks riding per year.

Check your bindings!

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I have been riding on a hair line crack for ahhhhh for 4 years I just can't get the dam thing to break!! Has anyone had it break while riding to cause a one footer,  like the TD1 standards did to me many times on perfect jump landings. Pressure would cause bail to flip open front foot. switched to landing on tail and slowly let it bend out!!

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It just seems that you can't please everyone. Complaint about  TD2"s was you couldn't access base screws. The problem was rectified by removing the material (let's call it the web) in the centre. Less material more chance of overload obviously. Be careful what you ask for ! If your big and burley and want tough ride with the TD2's plate.

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If you can find baseplates the obvious answer is to buy a new one.  Considering the current (somewhat nebulous state of Bomber) situation you can utilize the following steps:  Find someone who is good with a TIG welder.  They tend to hide out in aircraft/tech/stainless industries/contexts.  Buy a 6-pack of good beer.  Take binding apart and make sure it's easy to get to the crack.  It should take the (now successfully bribed) welder about 30 seconds to weld that crack into a solid piece of metal.  Spend some time with a couple of files and a vise to clean up the bead/screw track.  Admittedly this is a "worst case" sort of fix, as the welding will turn the T6 material to annealed (in the heat affected zone) - but it's better than cracked.  Well, worst case is probably do nothing.  I bet it would go for a long time anyhow.  You aren't gonna get a one foot ride, massive bending/clicking/loose foot first.  Shit, it might just break catastrophically.  I donno

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Not an engineer, but I do work with mixed metals and stressed components.  BarryJ sounds like you are big boned like myself.  You could be tweaking those TD3 SW when your mass moves away from center?  As long as you didn't get injured and are able to replace that part, should be good?  Over 200 pound club, just different quality control, we are harder on equipment.

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Barry didn't you also crack a lower cant ring on that same binding assy? As I recall you were running  the Sidewinders on geckos - could it be possible the combined forces generated by the high angles on a wide board, the additional leverage of the geckos and the flexibility of the SW'er + gecko elastomers put an abnormally high twisting load on the binder?

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  • 2 weeks later...

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