What tools are you using for edge sharpening?

[Colozeus]

Just curious what others on here would recommend for a first time buyer. I'm looking to sharpen and tune the edges on all my boards before storing them for the summer. 

[bruincounselor]

A file, diamond file, and one each of these:

 

http://svst.com/Shop/SVSTs-The-Final-Cut-Tool/

 

http://svst.com/Shop/SVST-Side-Edge-Bevelers/

 

They aint cheap, but they never wear out either. Most any shop can get them or online through any of their dealers. I prefer 1/2 degree base and 90 degree side - I know that's not the norm so take it with a grain. A gummy is nice to have too.

[Pat Donnelly]

http://forums.bomberonline.com/index.php?/topic/37333-general-edge-tuning-qs-and-tool-qs/

 

 

WAXING

http://www.skimd.com/pro-glide.html

 

 

Or you could go for the best PRO TUNE and maintain thereafter

http://www.skimd.com/home.html

Edited March 30, 2016 by Pat Donnelly

[Corey]

Check out the 'Scary Sharp' concept: http://primeshop.com/access/woodwork/scarysharp/ and more articles if you search. Yeah yeah, it's about woodworking tools and knives, but the theory is interesting to have in mind when tuning edges.  Get the rough shape with the file, then polish with finer and finer grades of sandpaper/stones. I bet you could get some fine sandpaper and some kind of glass or milled aluminum block, but diamond stones do a better job than most of us need. 

 

I do multiple passes on the base and then side with a chosen file/stone until it's uniform, then move to the next finer tool.  I was stunned at how sharp the edge was when I finished with the fine stone!  I had been progressing through all the stones for the base, then moving on to the sides.  Now I file the base and side. Then coarse stone the base and side, then medium stone on base and side, then fine stone on base and side.  Keep those stones wet, and wipe the edge and tool off after every few passes. 

 

This is pretty excessive - the edges hit little rocks and stuff eventually and undo your work anyway.  But it's kind of fun in a sick way.  :)

[trailertrash]

Dewalt angle grinder.

[Beckmann AG]

^Cheapskate. Try the Metabo.

Gearbox won't burn your hand, so you can work without the mitts/tooldip.

Edited March 30, 2016 by Beckmann AG

[lordmetroland]

Dewalt angle grinder.

 

Boy, that worked really fast! If I got down to the black, melty part of the board, did I go too far?

[lowrider]

Belt sander like the guys that build your board.

[Donek]

This is the machine we use.  Probably not an entry level device though.

http://www.reichmann-skiservice.com/en/tuning-machines/dts-u-pro.html

 

The edge it produces is pretty awesome.

[Aracan]

I use the Tooltonic box Plus. Somewhat costly, and not ideal if you have many boards to tune, but even someone with ten left thumbs (like me) will get good results with their stuff.

[st_lupo]

My goal is to pull out a brand new Coiler instead of always sharpening the edges.  Until I win the lottery though, I'll +1 Corey's method. 

 

I've got a Swix 2nd cut file and diamond stones at 200, 400 and 600 grit (red, yellow, white).  Also have .5 degree base file guide and a 2 degree side-wall file guide. 

 

When setting a new angle on the base and/or sides I'll use a sharpie to color the edges on the board and then use the file until all of the the sharpie color has been filed off. I'll then use the diamonstones 200-->400-->600 to remove burrs and get a progressively finer edge.  Throughout the season I just use the diamond stones and guides to maintain the edge.  I use however many passes I need with the 200 to remove burrs and then 5 passes with the 400 grit and 5 passes with 600 grit.  And like Corey said keep the stones wet and wipe the edges down regularly. 

 

Also, don't forget the sidewall cutter, otherwise you'll be clogging up the file/stones with plastic from the sidewall.

 

I usually tune all of the skis and snowboards in my family and really find it relaxing.  I get to dissappear into the garage for a few hours a week and listen to the radio.

 

One thing I've heard from some folks that are involved with the racing scene out here is that they finish up with a some really fast diamond-stone passes over the edges to harden them.  Sounds like a bunch of hooey to me but does anybody have any insight into this?

[lowrider]

Nothing you do to the edges either in the process of sharpening or afterwards will harden the edge anymore than they were when you started except rust !

[RoroSnow]

File and diamond file.

From coarse one to finer one. Always wet with a mix of  alcohol/window cleaner/water.

Not sharpening aggresively but just a little bit, very often.

One or two times a season sharpening with the Snowglide tool of a friend of mine.

Not cheap at all but does an awesome job.

I think doing it by hands is cool, and we generaly get better at it, the more we do it.

For those interested :

 

http://www.snowglidetools.com/en_main.php

[MikeC]

If you look at an edge under a microscope you will see what looks like your fingers intertwined to form an X.  The upper part being your fingers and the lower part being your hands.  Every step up you take causes the distance between your finger tips to get closer and closer together.  This is the jagged steel strands at the edge becoming smaller and smaller.  The process can go on forever, but the idea is to get the strands refined as much as possible to reduce the friction the jagged edges have on the snow.  That is what will allow it to cut AND last longer.  Same goes for woodworking tools.  If you've done it extensively you know the difference between a slick sharpened with a 1000 grit stone and one sharpened with a 6,000 grit stone. Night and day.

 

 

Edited April 1, 2016 by MikeC