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My bindings are gonna kill me. Advice?


Lucasgo

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First, let me say I've lurked in the forums for years not posting.  Read plenty.  I've been boarding since 85, hard boots since 98.  I have been through several boards, but mostly Burton since I could drive over to the factory and pick up a board.  I got a pair of Raichle AF700TS boots off ebay several years ago that were far better than my Fires.  Then I picked up an F2 Speedster RS.  Fantastic board that goes nice and fast.  I've found some decent angles and can lay down carves on the right slopes.

Here's the problem.  I have Burton Race Plates (the orange margin with blue bumper underneath the metal binding, not the plastic binding ones) set up on the variable cant disc.  Every day one of the bindings seems to wiggle loose.  Tonight is was my back binding.  I noticed it as I was getting off the lift, so pulled out the screwdriver, removed everything down to the deck.  Only one screw was moderately loose (so I tightened it, duh), fit the two discs back into place at maybe the same angles I had before, then tightened the binding back on.  Slid down a couple feet and my foot was STILL SHIFTING!  wth? Maybe the discs were slipping on top of the base?  I know I had the grooves lined up properly though. I stopped again and just took the stupid cant block right out and rode flat binding, which was entirely bizarre and I'd rather not learn how to snowboard all over again.

This has happened with both front and rear bindings, I'd say front more often.  It doesn't happen when I just get pissed and remove the cant blocks, but then riding becomes a real challenge instead of a pleasure.

Anybody have any experience with the Burton variable cant system coming loose like this?  Advice?  My wife would shoot me if I said I wanted to drop 3-400 on a new set of bindings, but if I am afraid of breaking a leg and can't find a permanent solution I'll do it and hide her gun.

I can upload photos/take measurements/etc if that would help.

I'll be at the PureBoarding event in Syracuse NY later this January.  Hopefully some guys there will have advice or demo parts for sale?

 

Thanks!

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There are so many of these posts that all follow the same pattern:

 

"I have been riding forever... my board rips.... something broke on my 10+ year old gear what should I do?"

 

Take your current set up and chuck it in a dumpster and buy something that was built this decade.

 

You have been riding so long, why are you still riding on crap?

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Do you have the correct discs as well? If the discs say no canting you are using the wrong ones for the cants. I would email Joerg if you have the right parts and ask about this if you are still having problems? No canting means that you have to set up the bindings flat with no cants with those discs.I would guess those are the wrong discs because you said the bindings don't move when you are riding them flat. Maybe Joerg can bring you parts to buy for later this month?

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Some of those old Burton screws would shed their thread locking compound, and this, jammed in the bottom of the insert, prevents the screws from fully seating.

Universal cants are fine for 'roughing in' a setup, but not for long term use under any kind of serious stress. Too much slop in the center u-joint.

 

Plenty of good used gear out there that will most likely accommodate your stance preferences.

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Is the binding loosening from the mounting metal union, or is the union loosening from the deck's inserts? In either case, but sure to make sure that you are both getting enough bolt purchase and not bottoming out. If you are bottoming out you may not be tightening the union down fully and working it loose as you ride.

 

Since this has been a long term issue, check the inserts for damage and toss the mounting hardware and replace (it's cheap enough you don't need to risk using damaged screws).

 

The Vari cants have issues- the fixed ones are more reliable. 

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I could be wrong about those discs as went to carversparadise.com and they only had 1 disc.

I just checked and found two discs at carversparadise:

The 7° wedge: http://www.carversparadise.com/speed-keilplatte-p-1323.html

And the Unicant that is adjustable from 0-8°: http://www.carversparadise.com/speed-universalkeil-p-1591.html

 

That said, +1 for talking to Jörg. His buddy Remo is the one who keeps the Speed/Ibex/Burton binding available, and the PureBoarding crowd all ride those bindings. 

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I rode one for a few seasons. I don't know if the Ibex folks are using better plastic, but the old ones tended to be brittle in the cold. The discs tapered to some very thin edges, and it's no uncommon to kick a crack or hole into them. I never had any issues with riding mine, but they could be damaged in transport, etc.

 

The fixed angle wedges are generally much more durable and trouble free.

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Just a comment - this has been covered but not exactly from this angle (no pun intended):

 

It sounds like snowboarding is important to you and is certainly one of your hobbies (if not more). It's OK to spend money on your hobby and the money spent on good gear that will last you is money well spent.  Happiness can be bought to a certain degree, and spending money on a sport that will make an improvement in your mental/emotional health is worth some money.

 

Another way of looking at this: take a look at your health insurance (I'm assuming you're in the US) how much will an emergency room + ambulance co-pay cost you? Say it's $200. I say that means you can spend $200 on something that will prevent you from having to spend that $200 on an E-R visit and ambulance ride (plus you're out for the season, plus any physical therapy, etc). 

 

Feel free to come to me for ways to justify spending money on snowboarding - I've got tons :eplus2:  :eplus2: :eplus2:  :eplus2:  :eplus2:  :eplus2:  :eplus2:  

Edited by NickG
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F2 bindings have can't kits available, (yyzcanuk for parts) if you combine them you can get the canting you are using with the varicants~if you use all 8 degrees.

F2's are available used, the burtons are old.... Plastic dries out with age and sunlight,

175-225$ used, well worth the upgrade.

Bombers are bombproof but only have the cant range of about half of the burton varicants, the f2 can be manifested into the proper position if you need all 8+- degrees, if you don't use a lot of canting, bomber is the way to go, parts are available and longevity is a certainty.

Yes, your bindings are going to kill you, as they are.

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I agree with NickG; I don't know if you have ever managed to destroy a binding (I have a few times) and it is by the grace of god that I didn't end up with a snowboard ending injury each time it happened - you don't want to be riding through a turn with only one leg attached to the board at speed.

 

Having torn my ACL grade 2 (with both legs attached to the board) and then spending about $2000USD on physio (would  have been more like $10k if I needed the operation) plus 6 months of pain and recovery.....just buy some new decent bindings.

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Thanks!  I think Beckmann had the most immediate solution with the locking compound bleeding off.  I saw some in the bottom of the inserts and I wonder if they push up, combined with the stress of carving, to get those screws loose.

I do appreciate the advice on the new bindings.  As to a whole new setup, I eagerly await trailertrash's check (I also accept paypal).  I'll start looking around to replace the most immediate need, which is in this case the bindings.  I've looked for 4-hole fixed cant blocks (I have some 3-holes on my old burton) but haven't had much luck.  These vari's are just fragile.  I crushed one when I stepped on it a few years back, and if a binding part can't hold up to the boot that is supposed to go on it...  The bindings themselves are the full metal ones but with the gasket for shock absorption.  Maybe it's time to swap out the center discs if I don't find new bindings though, as those are plastic.

I have the vari's set to about 6 degrees.  I'll check what ursle said about f2 bindings, as well as continue checking the sale forum here. And see what there is at pureboarding in 2 weeks!  

I know from biking experience an ambulance ride alone will run me about 900, so I know being able to trust the equipment is worth it.

If you see a decent pair <200, message me! 

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What?!?  Am I reading the site right at yyzcanuk?  199 for the freecarve bindings, that's like 167US$, am I missing something?  How did I not know this existed?  Reading the description, the binding says "variable canting and heel lift".. so the binding has built in canting and I don't need an extra cant block?

Someone tell me I'm missing something.  I know they're not going to be as indestructible as bombers, but I don't have quite that much at my disposal right now.

 

Sorry, not trying to be an ad for another site, I'm just excited...

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What?!?  Am I reading the site right at yyzcanuk?  199 for the freecarve bindings, that's like 167US$, am I missing something?  How did I not know this existed?  Reading the description, the binding says "variable canting and heel lift".. so the binding has built in canting and I don't need an extra cant block?

Someone tell me I'm missing something.  I know they're not going to be as indestructible as bombers, but I don't have quite that much at my disposal right now.

 

Sorry, not trying to be an ad for another site, I'm just excited...

I believe these are essentially like the F2 Race Ti but plastic and you get the same shims that you can stack for various lift/cant combinations.  You can always flip Andrea or Dave an email at YYZ...great customer service as well.

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Or you can try to find some used Snowpro Race bindings. Rock-solid product, 6 mm bails. They have 3° inward canting built in. Usually they come with one or two sets (not sure) of 3° shims which you can use to either neutralize or double the built-in canting. I have seen NOS pairs for EUR 199, and they look a lot more durable than the F2 Freecarve. 

Just make sure you get the bail version, not the F.A.S.T.

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  • 4 weeks later...

So I showed my wife the options.  She said to get the TD3's, since they seemed like they'd last for the rest of my life, or at least until the kids are out of college and we could spend that much again.  Order up.  Got them last night, mounted the e-rings and lower assembly per instructions, then mounted the plates.  Tried adjusting for boot length, but my boots appear to be too long?  wtf?  I went back and I don't see sizing options for ordering, so it's not like I got a small when I should have ordered a large.  What am I doing wrong?  

Both heel and toe screws are in the furthest holes, and I slid them as far out as possible.  Still can't get the toe lever over my boot toe.  Distance from heel to toe on boot is 32cm, but seems I can't get the binding to go beyond 30cm (maybe 32 when toe bail is lying down flat, but that's not helpful).

Raichle AF700TS.  I know they're old, but entirely functional and don't feel like dropping another 500 to replace something that's completely fine. 

Anybody else encounter this problem?  Why didn't I know this when ordering the bindings?

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That sounds a little strange. What size are your boots, and are these Sidewinders or regular TD3?

 

One possibility is that you're expecting the toe bail to clear the boot by a large amount. The TD3 bails are a very close fit and the lever from bail to boot ledge is very short, so it can seem like it won't work but it will.

 

If they really don't fit, you must have boots bigger than M30? There are special extra-long baseplates for that, I gather. Just email Michelle and Fin at Bomber. They're very responsive and want your stuff to work.

 

You may also be able to find some of the older toe bails that are longer.

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Okay, I just went back based on your input that it's a very close fit.  I jammed the toe bail over the toe and compressed my boot into it.  It's a REALLY tight fit.  Like, crushing the boot toe tight, but it's in there.  I'll give them a call to find out, and look for a longer bail.  It seriously doesn't look right.

Found the 319mm printed on the boot.  I wear 29.5, think the shell is for 29-32?

Regular TD3.

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I have longer toe bails (very long) if you want. I'd say make that your last resort, though. I used Deeluxe/Raichle M30 with my TD3s with no issue at all, but those were the older (longer) bails.

 

Correct, 319 mm bsl = M29 for the AF700/Indy/Track 700. The "29 - 32" is just the upper cuff (or tongue) -- the same part is used to assemble all shell sizes from 29 to 32.

 

Good luck!

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