teach

Sure, definitely!

Won't be able to use two of a 4-pack. Can meet at Loveland or dillon/Silverthorne thurs-sat. $35 each.

Sounds great! I'll PM you

Bump? Yes, bump.

Anyone want to sell one of these, or a similar board for a lighter rider (120-130 lb) with narrowish waist (19 cm or less)? Looking for "modern" shape, early-rise nose etc.

I'd never known there was such a thing, but met a carving skier who used to live in Aspen and rode with the purecarve crew back then -- late 90s early 2000s? He was using it and praised it.

I am not any kind of engineer, but have wild ideas about putting a bunch of sensors on a board with a connection to a data-logging device. Sensors would just give relative position. The data could then be processed to give a sort of movie of board flex as it's being ridden, available to analyze any which way. Add to it some accelerometers and you could get some idea of pressure distribution, and GPS data to get an estimate of path of center of mass. Then you'd have a data set you could maybe do a lot with in terms of board response. I even looked at suppliers for sensors that might be suitable, but it's still at pipe dream stage for me. I wonder if ski manufacturers already do such things, or have blow past armchair stuff like that long ago...

Lots of photos in the for sale section! Like the 162 Kessler that @nick8228put up -- those longitudinal grooves in the base photos are structure. That pattern seems to be more common than the chevron or diagonal patterns. If your base structure is really all gone, or even just gone close to the edges, that means there's been significant base wear. It's probably worn more at the edges, so you have a slightly convex base. A grind to flat isn't going to lose much base material that matters, and will make tuning more accurate. Side-edge bevel guides use the base as reference... Before a base grind it's common to put a base edge bevel on, so the stone doesn't hit the base edge metal. It's hard on the stone and puts a pattern in the base edge you don't want. My suggestion would be to know exactly who is going to be doing the grind and that they know you want minimal base edge bevel and minimal material removed and are familiar with alpine boards and the people who ride them. Too many horrific stories about ruined boards.

Wow, that's impressive in so many ways. The thickness of the plastic on the lower is crazy! Why did you relocate the cuff pivot? One side only? Or is it front boot only? Why no rearward-travel spring?

Great information, hknz! Deeluxe used to recommend a 26 for feet measuring at least 26 cm and up to but not including 27 cm. Measure with footbeds/orthotics you'll wear in the boots, as that often affects length. It's also usually suggested to fit your smaller foot, the idea being that the larger one will probably still fit, and if necessary that boot can be punched out to suit. Those two guidelines put you in a 26. As hknz suggests. Because Deeluxe have such a large heel/ankle area, many people attempt a smaller shell than the recommended one to get good heel hold.

+1 A lift I like that's much easier than the snatch or clean and jerk is the muscle snatch. I guess it's used as warm-up for snatches. (I've seen people do essentially this with kettlebells but I never found out what they called it.) Here 130 kg is made to look easy: You're moving weight fast over a long range. As one who doesn't do Olympic lifts, I find it a nice complement to (and warm-up for) deadlifts and a good overall addition to powerlifting -style training. (My goal being health more than PRs on the Big Three).

Really nice photos, Yamifumi! In the first one, is Mario on a snowblade mounted with TD3s? That's the "toy" reference?

I have some. I think they're old style. I bought them for the older style boots but didn't use them. I'll PM you when I locate them.

Where do you ride? Might be a chance someone around has shells you can try on.

All Board Sports has a few pairs on ebay. Also another seller. TrueSport has some in a sweet red/orange. The North America distributor has them in "26-26.5" which is likely the shell you want (ask for the shell size or UPZ size stamped on the heel). EDIT: The Spanish board company OES (On Edge Style) has UPZ in these sizes too. You can get shell only, then find a suitable liner. Again, ask questions to get the shell size. The "UK size" on the box is the UPZ size. 7, 7.5 or 8 is probably what you want. (Older boxes call it EU size). That's the 299mm shell. I think hardboot fit is more difficult and more critical than soft boot fit. No straps after all.

I have these in 28. You can have them for the price of shipping. PM me and I can send photos if you're interested.

Mr Wonton, UPZ boots are not sized like most ski boots or alpine snowboard boots. The shells do not go up in 1 cm increments. There are various charts that attempt to convert, but they don't always agree. For example, the OP has "size 28.5" UPZ. Nowhere on the boot does it give a mondo size, so there is a conversion involved. Depending on which chart was involved, he could have the 312mm shell (UPZ sizes 8.5/9/9.5) or the 324mm shell (UPZ sizes 10/10.5/11). @lonbordingave some of the sizing charts in a post above; two of those put 28.5 as the 324mm shell. So be careful with internet advice on UPZ sizing, as it's not quite what people think it is. For a foot 27.25 or 27.75, the shell below the 312mm would probably work well. That's 299mm, for UPZ sizes 7/7.5/8. Interior length should be around 29.2 cm so it's long enough... but your foot shape would dictate whether you'd need shell work. Your earlier post said 26.75 and 27.25. If that's correct than the next smaller shell 287mm might be a better choice. Note it's only 8mm smaller. Should have interior length about 28.4cm then. EDIT: ^doh. 12 mm smaller, so could well be too small. UPZ has three "sizes" per shell (not two, not half-sizes) accomplished by different liners. I don't actually find a difference between the different sizes for a given shell. The liners are quite narrow in the forefoot (I just put some new ones in and day-um they're like a vise) but they will break in ... well, they did for me. Very comfortable, UPZ 9.5 liners, 312mm shell, ~29.8cm foot. One more point: get good foot support one way or another. Then redo your measurements. Read Beckmann AG 's material on boots: http://beckmannag.com (Under Alpine Skiing).

Those PHK look like the Catek idea, but actually (according to the description on the PHK site) the cant/lift is achieved through a Bomber-style 3 degree disk you rotate under the sole plate. Also a little TD1 influence with the bumpers.

Sorry, I only know OF the Bishop since it was a Bomber invention. I Heel vs toe... maybe call and ask for measurements? The big lug with the spring I think needs a longer unthreaded portion (but that's not the one you're replacing).

@bigwavedave, is your new Coiler very stiff torsionally (for grip)? It sounds like your conditions are like ours lately, where the ice underneath the soft and/or loose stuff is bumpy. Punishingly bumpy. So maybe the extra dampness is the big contribution and you don't need or want more torsional stiffness? Maybe even less?

My girlfriend and I have been noticing this the past two or three seasons. Pretty stark, not just here (Philly/NYC) but also at Okemo last year. Maybe down to a bare majority wearing helmets. Also, among the helmeted, the unbuckled helmet is big again. I saw a skier rocking this look crash trying to avoid going off edge of the run (headed straight for a boulder) -- his helmet flew off at first impact as he cartwheeled toward the boulder. I collected his skis and poles and checked on him. He was OK and asked about his helmet. I told him it continued without him -- it was at the bottom of the run. I hope I wasn't too subtle.

I have a few options for large-size bindings. I'll PM you.

The UPZ heels are interchangeable with other Intec-compatible boots' heels. It's the toe pads that aren't and have the same problem as @barryj points out for the Fintec heels: walking grinds down the attaching screws. And the toe pads are expensive, like $60 a pair.

It takes a while to get them adjusted. They need to be pretty tight to not fall off on stairs. I guess that's due to the flexible and rockered sole. Then once they're tight, they're a little hard to put on at first. It gets easier. I often put them on right after I unclip for the day, with gloves still on. A one minute job now.

This is especially a problem with UPZ as the toe pad screws are barely recessed and will get ground down. That, and UPZ toe pads are seriously expensive. I use and highly recommend Ski Skootys. Much better than Cat Tracks (terrible on snowboard boot soles) and much more durable and secure than Yak Trax (which fall off when you can't retrieve them readily and then break). I've been using mine for 5 or so years, still going. Rarely fall off. Much better footing on icy sloping pavement.