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Opinions on cants


JWCarve

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Can i get some feedback on canting paragraph here:

extremecarving.com/tech/set.html

Is no canting good for a certain type of riding? Im referring to both but especially inward cants, it seems like it might make sense since less bend is given to board from legs. Newb question so dont be too hard. Thanks

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Can i get some feedback on canting paragraph here:

extremecarving.com/tech/set.html

Is no canting good for a certain type of riding? Im referring to both but especially inward cants, it seems like it might make sense since less bend is given to board from legs. Newb question so dont be too hard. Thanks

Yes some styles of riding such as Extreme Carving do not cant their bindings because it can harm the correct body movement and edge control required for Extreme Carving. This works for them because in the middle of a turn when their legs are extended the snowboard decambers bringing the front and rear knees together.

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I think it's personal preference, but Jacks article is a great place to start. I was flat, then went slightly wider with 3 degrees pure toe and 3 degrees pure heel. It was definitely an improvement.

I've been playing around allot with cants this season and come to the conclusion that a flat front foot 6 degree pure heel is right for me. Feels good on the carpet and the hill.

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There are setups which are great for carpet :)

And then there are setups which are for carving :D

Some prefer bunny style small stance, some like it over wide, some like it flat, some sort of raised, it is all personal.

I like canting/lift only on summer slalom under rear foot, all others for me are just pure pain.

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A slightly tangential question: Does anyone consciously try to alter the flex of the board by pressing front toes/lifting rear toes (to flatten the board) or vice versa (to increase flex)? Seems to me the effect would be fairly subtle unless one is really strong, and separating the effect on flex from the effect on twist would take some concentration (if done consciously). Maybe we all do both unconsciously. Hope all this thought doesn't screw up anyone's technique...

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Does anyone consciously try to alter the flex of the board by pressing front toes/lifting rear toes (to flatten the board) or vice versa (to increase flex)?

the term used for what you are describing is pedaling. there is a fair amount of discussion about pedaling on BOL.

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A slightly tangential question: Does anyone consciously try to alter the flex of the board by pressing front toes/lifting rear toes (to flatten the board) or vice versa (to increase flex)? Seems to me the effect would be fairly subtle unless one is really strong, and separating the effect on flex from the effect on twist would take some concentration (if done consciously). Maybe we all do both unconsciously. Hope all this thought doesn't screw up anyone's technique...
the term used for what you are describing is pedaling. there is a fair amount of discussion about pedaling on BOL.

Oh god canofworms.gif

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in a somewhat cant related field, how do you guys prefer to set forward lean? on the stock HSPs the only way to get a good knee bend is to tighten the bottom nut, which in consequence makes them very inflexible forward/aft, trying to figure out if its worth it in order to get lots of forward lean (i tend to get lazy on any board and stand too upright), or its better to have the spring non-compressed and easier to flex. im assuming that might be easier on the body but less responsive

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There is a picture of Michael Angelos (I think) man that stands about a large circle circumscribed about his body. If you analyze the position of his feet with the angles that his legs hit the circle you can grasp a better understanding of why you might want to cant. As this man rotates about an axis drawn directly through the middle of his body, you can better understand the need for toe and heel lifts to compensate binding angles. I believe Jack Michaud posted that picture. It would be nice if he could post it again.

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Which also points out that the chap probably has a groin injury.

I'm all for art, but it's not science, and he's not trying to ride a composite board down a man-made snow slope at 20km/h.

On forward lean..

I'm using the HSPs, I just set the front one to minimum and the back to max, and set them so there's some flex with the stock springs/ tongues. Maybe I'm not picky enough, but that works ok. Which knee are you having not enough bend with?

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Artists of that period were also engineers, architects and scientists. In some cases their knowledge of human anathomy were greater then of the contemporarry doctors... Leonardo has produced a first known sketch of a helicopter and numerous other inventions. Michelangelo engineered one of the most impressive temples and surroundings of all times. Examples are endless...

In my book, when I start having hugely different lean in front and rear boot cuffs, I know that my toe/heel lifts are not right... Why would I want to put my rear boot too maximum lean and LIMIT my ROM, while I can have it more relaxed and add heel lift?

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im not necessarily having too little lean on either leg, just thought id force my knees to bend since on non alpine board and skis i get lazy and ride too straight. but i see the point especially when in certain boots max lean means stiffest lean. like i mentioned newb question i got lots to learn still trying to figure out how cants work with boot lean with bindings like sidewinders, etc. theres a lot of room for adjustments and deciding on how stiff you want to go which is what im trying to figure out now. i guess heel canting is somewhat like forcing boot screw into max forward lean with no play in a way. i think. ill try to loosen boot lean up and get a wider ROM. would it be completely counterproductive to ride in walk mode with no tension on boot lean? i guess so since youd have delayed edge response albeit more comfort

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I ride with my boots with the least amount of forward lean as possible, I find it makes my riding equal, and allows my boots to bend/flex as they were intended too. To make riding conferrable I have toe lift of my front foot and the same amount on my heel on my back boot this keeps my body in a neutral position and on the centre of my stance. Unless you are either knocked kneed or bow lagged then you don't need canting. Canting and lifting is a very understated part of a good setup, I've scene many bad setups that left good riders riding badly and in pain. This article helped me a lot and helped me solve BAD shin bang. http://www.yyzcanuck.com/E_tech_article04.htm

Stewart

Edited by stewart Hodgins
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I think canting and lift is as individual as stance width and angle. I've seen setups that would snap my knee ligaments, and I've talked with guys who say zero cant is the way to gp. I've used just about the same cant for 20+ years, because i figured out what was comfortable. Just experiment a lot and see what feels right.

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I think canting and lift is as individual as stance width and angle. I've seen setups that would snap my knee ligaments, and I've talked with guys who say zero cant is the way to gp. I've used just about the same cant for 20+ years, because i figured out what was comfortable. Just experiment a lot and see what feels right.

I think tex1230 is dead on, it does just depend on what feels right for you. Experiment with it all if you can. I stopped using cants because I found that it made long traverses tiring. For me it is hard to relax in the position they create, although it is great while carving. But I am probably not the norm. Heck I thought the ASYM boards were fun and where are they now? Bottom line customize till you maximize the fun factor!

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thanks guys yeah ill keep experimenting something is def not optimal since i get tired real quick...then again javent boarded for 15 yrs on hard boots and a stiff board but ive seen guys realy relaxed on alpine setups so there must be a sweetspot. and you probably have to be in better shape than regulag boarding heck im barely flexible enough to lock the rear binding think i need a string lol

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