Jump to content
Note to New Members ×

Skwal Riders General Discussion


mikel45

Recommended Posts

Have you ridden one? If you had, I would bet that you wouldn't make that comment. I found "heelside" to be much easier on a skwal...in fact, after riding a skwal in the morning and switching to my 19cm wide board in the afternoon, I found my heelside turns improving.

Yup. Thias Easy Jungle. It felt very toesidey on heelside. Maybe this effect would be diminished if I spent more time on one.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mate, you have to be able to ride the skwal, to actually say that you have tried it. Again, sorry for stating the obvious. :freak3:

Burning ten runs on one was enough for me to find it wasn't my cup of tea.

Rocking the 8m sidecut or whatever the Easy Jungle had was fun but the stance just didn't work for me.

Riding 90/90 angles was still not symmetrical from what I experienced.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've got an Easy Jungle too. It's been about 2 years since I rode it last, but this is what I remember of-hand:

It has lots of offset, I rode it forward or ref. stance.

I rode wider stance then ref. stance suggested, with toe/heel lift.

It hooked wicked turns. I was able to put my heelside hip to the snow right away, on a green run.

Toe and heel side differed a lot in initiation. Heel was easy, just drop the hip and it hooks in. Toe was struggle, I had to dive into the turns. That was with 0 front and about 85 back.

Later I backed angles a bit, somthing like 85 / 80 and toe side became a bit easier to initiate.

It worked in softer snow too and on mini-bumps on mild blue run. Didn't ride it on anything very steep...

Thias bindings that came with it are actually Skwal version of Snowpros. Came with lots of shimms.

Now I'm getting inspired to scrape it and give a go again. Well, after this period of rains and pow has gone...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Toe sides more difficult than heel sides... That's our alpine habits playing up. You're trying to initiate the turns like it was an alpine board. Which it is not.

I think the problem is that the skwal is percieved as an alpine board because it looks similar. Your body does not necessarely recognize it as something different and tries to adapt to it with a known technique. And that creates missunderstandings and errors. One should start from scratch and forget most of the alpine technique.

Try to follow these excellent explanations by ObiOne: http://www.skwalzone.org/forums3/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=3396

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yup. Thias Easy Jungle

The easy jungle is a limitated board especially if you are used to alpine boards.

According to me it is not well balanced, turns are not natural and personnaly I had great difficulties to ride it and I would not recommend it.

I did not experienced such problems with other skwal boards I tried (FC180, Sk200, contest, Mpride, Oxess, 173°F, RS176, ...)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

when is it a skwal and when is it a skinny alpine snowboard? Seems like angles of 80/80 still give you a heelside and a toeside. that seems antithetical to the skwal thing, no? I also thought stance width was supposed to be a lot narrower, if not heel-to-toe...?

correct Jack!

what is a skwal?

From an "equipment" point of view (considering the actual major skwal manufacturers in the world e.g., M-pride, Lagriffe, Lacroix etc...) a skwal width "at the foot" ranges between 11cm and 13.5cm approx...wider width is ideal for skwal powder.

Modern skwal lenghts ranges between 173cm and 183cm (we are testing even 190cm with some manufacturers, but just for GS races...). Stance is approximately 4 cm or less...why?...you should ask to our friend Thias (one of the two skwal inventors in the early 90'ies) ...but as I said elsewhere, stance is highly personal. In any case if you stand up and put your feet perfectly in-line (90/90) with a very large stance, look at the angle/degrees between your ankle and calf of the front foot...no hard-boot is designed for that positioning - even in the walking mode... To respect phisiologically the lower body joints cants (from 3 to 6) are applied. The "heel-to-toe" stance makes you converge your weight and spread it into the smallest possible single place (possibly the smallest one) over the skwal base in order to absorb the maximum energy and to unleash it thanks to the camber-flex dynamics (the "bow and arrow" dynamic if you like). Short stance is the most used stance as far as we skwal in Europe...but Ace could be right to enrich skwal community with wider stances...why not? in fact nothing is written on stone to me...

mm...the only stone I would put is this one:

From a "technical" point of you it is skwal when you do not have angles on the front foot (0 degrees) and no or some angles (generally 3-5 max) for the back foot, as perfectly described by Zarkod before...I generally use 0/0 and I am happy...to clarify..."when you master a skwal you are lined up and you do not feel any strange pressure or traction heelside or toeside..." all turns are simmetrical except for style".

From a "ride" point of view it is skwal when you feel you are making a turn and you feel like you are making that turn as you would be riding a street motorbike into the turn...if you do not have a bike ...a bicycle is the same.

Combining "equimpment", "technical" and "ride" elements you might get the response on what a skwal is with respect a skinny board...

but, all in all, we are first carvers, bloody carvers...being either soft, moderate or nasty carvers...(and from here skwal and snowboard are the same)

to me...skwal is a frontal mind for a frontal turn

obi one:ices_ange

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  1. Pam

  2. Extra vigin olive oil

  3. Lemon pledge

  4. Go faster :rolleyes:

Thanks all!

The best method I've found:

Let the board cool down in the rack while you put your boots on. I found that putting a warm board in the snow means the snow sticks on the topsheet very well, which means more can stick on top. If it's the same temp as the snow then that first layer has a harder time sticking.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I tried my first real day on skwal today. After a cautious few runs, trying this and that, i started to feel good and then turned the heat up several notches. I was throwing it around like it was a toothpick. I like it and want to do more. I used the same cut and flex as my alpine and it performed as expected. Front=85/3 deg rear=80/3 deg with a 16.75" stance, felt strange at first but after a bit I was ok w/ it. It forces you to ride with a forward stance all the time and turn by angulation, both hands over the board on turns, no back seating it here, pumping on turns where I could. The next one will be a 12 cm waist, I have got to see how narrow I can go.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12cm is pretty much the limit if you are using the Bomber TD3 Skwal bindings.

Hey guys (Tufty, RobertAlexander and Ace), have been meaning to make a connection, we have a common interest - building our own boards.

Just wondering what kind of
press
you've built or are building?

I am building my press out of I beams that I was able to recycle. My press will be similar to this one...

press_anim.gif

The paint is drying on the press as I type. Still a while until the first board is built. A learning process for sure. Should be able to squeeze up to a 210cm board! I have a lot of shapes I want to experiment with. A great excuse to travel to South America this summer, R&D.

:biggthump

What do you have up your sleeve Mikel?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

...and that means? Something about pressure and volume, but what about it?

Boyle's Law, innit. Although quite what that has to do with the gif above I don't really see; it only applies to a fixed quantity of ideal gas at a constant temperature - pneumatic presses deal with varying amounts of real gas, and don't worry too much about temperature except in terms of heating the epoxy to cure it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ah, horizontally laminated cores. You'll get flamed for mentioning those around here, of course, but the results are pretty good, if the "pop" remaining in my 2003 Hot Blast is anything to go by. I was considering that approach, but to get full benefit, you really need to laminate in the camber form, which makes subsequent core machining a bugger to do unless you happen to have a 5 axis CNC "lying about" doing nothing.

I'm doing "standard" vertically laminated cores that I steam-form to the camber shape before layup.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...