RobertAlexander Posted September 27, 2012 Report Share Posted September 27, 2012 Hi Mikel45, Yes, both sets are for sale, they are in the for sale list as well, $150 for the bail, $175 for the step in w/bail parts, I have all the screws that go with each set, plus shipping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikel45 Posted September 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2012 An overall good comparison between Catek / Bomber bindings is available from the Carving Almanac website. Heed earlier warning about Catek customer service. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikel45 Posted September 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2012 Just like to reiterate that the OS-2's fits the non-standard insert pattern specific to the Völkl monocarver. Alternative skwal bindings may not, so best to check beforehand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sabestian Posted October 5, 2012 Report Share Posted October 5, 2012 Catek has the WORST customer service. They actually haven't got one :\ You are posting in a forum that is owned by a manufacturer that makes his own parts in house and has fantastic customer service. 100% true. IMHO Bomber makes a better product. PERIOD. Catek bindings are better as far as adjustments go. They are in a league of their own. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikel45 Posted October 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2012 The Catek / TDs debate has been going on for years (do a bomber search). IMHO, a comment by Randy S. back in 2004 sums up the debate nicely: I think its almost a Coke/Pepsi discussion. Except that here you can argue on technical merit 'til you are blue in the face. Both are great bindings. Neither is likely to dissapoint or fail. To me it comes down to Cateks have almost unlimited adjustability and Bombers are more set-and-forget, but within certain limits, based on base disks. I do like the suspension on the new TDs, but Cateks suspension isn't half-bad. You have to ride them back-to-back to see/notice any difference and even then I think it would be a close call . . . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikel45 Posted October 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2012 Came across a thread on the ExtremeCarving forum where ObiOne mentions: Big difference between skwal and alpine snowboard . . . is actually the turn initiation and rotation . . . turn initiation with a skwal is the same . . . when you ride . . . a street motorbike . . . the weight shift, arms and shoulders are the drivers for turn initiation. . . not hips . . . the entire lateral body should enter the turn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sabestian Posted October 5, 2012 Report Share Posted October 5, 2012 That's exactly why I think that fine adjustments that Cateks offer are so beneficial on skwal. I had to fine tune the cants for my body to be relaxed and equalized over the board. With the bindings flat, I was struggling with body position. This comes from a bow legged man with knees without mesial menisci, multilevel discopatia etc. Your results may vary :) If you can find this equilibrium without fine tuning, well, lucky you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikel45 Posted October 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2012 . . . fine adjustments that Cateks offer are so beneficial on skwal. On that note, here is the Catek Quick Cant Tilt Calculator Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McDowall Posted October 16, 2012 Report Share Posted October 16, 2012 Can anyone confirm please that a rubber o-ring is required for binding plate before tighten the Kingpin bolt to the Spherical nut? ...... ALSO ...... who would recommend using something like Loctite threadlocker? My cateks for my skwal have the rubber o-ring on the kingpin bolt and I don't use any type of thread locker, I just tighten it down hand tight, then give a half turn to each of the tilt screws to lock it. After that you have to loosen the tilt screws before unscrewing the kingpin. Front: 0 deg; 6 deg toe lift, 3 deg cant to the left (outward) Back: 0 deg; 6 deg heel lift, 3 deg cant to the right (outward) I don't think I've considered putted the front foot canted left before though I usually have the back foot canted right, I'm going to adjust my bindings to this and give it a go! Also that tilt calculator is really handy (I don't have to pull out the protractor). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John H Posted October 16, 2012 Report Share Posted October 16, 2012 The o-ring is required on the kingpin bolt if you are using the standard elastomer. If you have the thicker/softer elastomers then you do not use the o-ring. I never used loctight on my Cateks, did the same as McDowell. Hand tighten the kingpin then turn the 4 adjuster screws a half turn to lock it in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McDowall Posted October 16, 2012 Report Share Posted October 16, 2012 I wanted to ask if there are any special instructions I should give to a ski shop for a tuning up my skwal since they would predominantly work with snowboards and skis? What bevel works best for carving on a skwal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikel45 Posted October 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2012 @ McDowell - thanks for clarification regarding o-ring. In hindsight my Loctite reference seems a bit silly now. I too am going to give the bow-leg cant stance a try. @ John H - appreciate explanation regarding elastomers and o-ring interface. I believe I have the standard elastomer, so I bought myself replacement o-ring. back @ McDowell - IMHO, better (and much cheaper) to purchase some basic equipment and tune your own board. Bevel is no different than snowboard or ski, boils down to personal preference. Me one degree. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
*Ace* Posted October 20, 2012 Report Share Posted October 20, 2012 I like to run 0* off the base..so flat with the base. 1* off the side, or 89* bevel. Works well out there in CO ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikel45 Posted October 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2012 I suspect most know this but what the heck no harm repeating . . . The TD2 uppers will fit the lower TD2 Skwal Cant Disks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikel45 Posted November 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2012 Hi all -- found a great blurb about canting requirements (based on your body structure) by Bruce Varsava of COILER COMPOSITES on the YYZCANUCK website. Skwallers are at at higher angles than stated below, but you'll get the overall gist, enjoy. CantingCanting requirements vary depending on two reasons: 1: Binding angles 2: Personal body structure In days of old when boards were substantially wider, this allowed for lower binding angles where you would stand more across the board than you can on the more modern narrow designs. What happens when you rotate your feet and hips more forward is that the angle at which your legs meet your hips diminishes the farther forward you go. The farther you go, the lower the angle and less canting that is required. The other factor to allow for is personal body structure. To figure this out you need to check if you are straight legged, bow legged or knock kneed. To do this simply place your bare ankles together and stand straight up. If your knees don't touch, you're bowed. If your knees and ankles touch, you're straight and if you can't get your ankles together you're knock-kneed. So again what are the magic numbers? Assuming that the bindings are in the mid 50-60 degree range the canting should be as follows. • Knock Kneed: You will need 1-2 degrees of inward canting. Leave one binding flat and cant the other one inward. • Straight legged: You lucky devils, you can usually get by with no canting. Just ride both bindings flat. • Bow legged: You suffer the most, if you can put 2 or 3 fingers between your knees when you're ankles are touching you will need 1-2 degrees of negative canting. Leave one binding flat and cant the other one outward. While riding, you can tell if you're canting is correct by feeling the pressure in the tops of you're boots. If you feel excessive pressure on the outsides of you're legs (common on bow legs) you should remove the canting or try negative canting. If the pressure is on the insides of your legs (common for knock kneed) you need to cant slightly more inwards. Don't forget to check you're boots, they may have a canting adjustment and this might be all you need to get balanced. Having all this knowledge is great, but how do you adjust you're bindings accordingly. This is the really tricky part. As mentioned previously, most bindings do not allow for these delicate adjustments and the available canting plates you can add, don't even get you in the ballpark most of the time. If you're buying new bindings try to get ones that allow for these adjustments. If you can't find any or want to do something with your old bindings, the good news is that almost anything can be customized. This usually involves installing some type of plastic blocks (high density polyethylene works well) under some part of the binding and installing longer screws. Since there are such a wide array of bindings and no kits readily available, you're pretty much on your own. Find a friend with a bandsaw, drill and lots of spare time and see if you can work something out. The final words: IT’S WORTH THE EFFORT! Everyone who's been set up properly has been amazed at the increase of comfort and performance. It could well be that if you're not totally satisfied with you're current gear a little knowledge and effort to set things up properly may be all you need to attain the next level of performance. Look at it this way, even if it takes a couple of hours to get it done right, you'll be able to enjoy it every day you ride for the rest of your life – and that's an investment that's hard to beat! Full article at source Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikel45 Posted November 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2012 (edited) Sold! Edited November 11, 2012 by mikel45 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikel45 Posted November 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2012 Whatever happened to Skwal USA - anyone know? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikel45 Posted November 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2012 Gee, I was hoping someone would have some insight into Skwal USA status. Their skwal price point ($425) was attractive. The next best price point would be the CODA split-tail skwal ($549). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kieran Posted November 23, 2012 Report Share Posted November 23, 2012 The next best price point would be the CODA split-tail skwal ($549).i really want to give one of those a shot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sabestian Posted November 23, 2012 Report Share Posted November 23, 2012 http://aes-shop.skwal.eu/skwalzone/forums3/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=3401&p=32738&hilit=coda&sid=3b5c1ddea725c14db093bd9f1994e1c9#p32738 You're welcome :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikel45 Posted January 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 Thias Easy Jungle 165 – ride report Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ExcelsiorTheFathead Posted January 8, 2013 Report Share Posted January 8, 2013 I need Skwal bindings. What's out there besides TD3 Skwal? I don't particularly want Catek. Any opinions of the set that Skwal USA has on their web site? Did Snowpro ever make F.A.S.T. Skwal stepins? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wantok Posted January 8, 2013 Report Share Posted January 8, 2013 SkwalUSA appears to sell the same binding as mPride for about $150 less. It is very solid and 11 cm at the widest point, same as the X-Race skwal. If you have a wider board Bomber has a narrow skwal canted riser for the TD's. At 13.5 cm the binding is considerably wider than the riser so you will boot out at some point with a narrow board. Bomber Elite II snowblade bindings (no cant, reminiscent of a Fritschi plate binding) are the least expensive by far but I haven't checked them out. They would certainly be beefier than the Volkl Monocarver bindings that have not failed me (also no cant or riser). I suspect that the typical narrow boot spacing originates with the fixed forward lean of alpine boots and the absence of a cant on the early bindings. I don't notice the cant or boot spacing so long as they match the forward lean. That's all I know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikel45 Posted January 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2013 Another option would be the PHK SKW Step-in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
*Ace* Posted January 8, 2013 Report Share Posted January 8, 2013 Art- I have a set of Thias branded SnoPros. They are standard bails. Just like regular SnoPro but the kidney shapes are angled differently for forward angles. Interested? Be on the look out for new skwal coming this month!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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