scrutton Posted November 21, 2009 Report Share Posted November 21, 2009 Just got me some UPZ RSV's (red). Yey! Does the spring mechanism on the back adjust, and if so is any special tool needed to do this? I figured out the ride/walk mode. Is there a user manual anywhere online? Thanks, Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobdea Posted November 21, 2009 Report Share Posted November 21, 2009 yes, my tool of choice is a butter knife but the reality is that I can't feel too much of difference when I move it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrutton Posted November 21, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2009 I think that maybe a tiny C spanner is the tool to have. eg. :- http://www.bitzforbikes.co.uk/photo/164500.JPG I have a few for bicycle work, but nothing this small. Good to know that not much difference was spotted when you tried to adjust it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ursle Posted November 21, 2009 Report Share Posted November 21, 2009 Does the spring mechanism on the back adjust, and if so is any special tool needed to do this? I've got my boots in my hands, notice a small lower spring and a larger upper spring... The small one is what you push against when you lean back in the boots and the large spring is what you compress when you lean forward, the adjustment nuts allow you to control the tension of the individual spring, when you're in walk mode the springs are disengaged. Right, you could adjust them with a spanner wrench, or you could just use a lever ala butter knife.. The adjustment may seem moot but it all adds up. I don't know where you got your boots but http://www.upzboots.com/ is Dan Yoja, and he has replacement buckles, the third one, right where the boot flexes is going to break so get some extras. If whom ever you bought the boots from has parts great... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bordy Posted November 21, 2009 Report Share Posted November 21, 2009 I've got my boots in my hands, notice a small lower spring and a larger upper spring...The small one is what you push against when you lean back in the boots and the large spring is what you compress when you lean forward, the adjustment nuts allow you to control the tension of the individual spring, when you're in walk mode the springs are disengaged. Right, you could adjust them with a spanner wrench, or you could just use a lever ala butter knife.. The adjustment may seem moot but it all adds up. I don't know where you got your boots but http://www.upzboots.com/ is Dan Yoja, and he has replacement buckles, the third one, right where the boot flexes is going to break so get some extras. If whom ever you bought the boots from has parts great... Hardbooters got buckles... the red plastic gets brittle with age check it often. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrutton Posted November 21, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2009 thanks for the tips guys. I purchased the boots from a BOL member. Good to know about the things likely to fail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeeW Posted November 21, 2009 Report Share Posted November 21, 2009 It has happened to me before last year or two years ago. I took it to my boss' buddy's shop. Surefoot or something like that, and we went thru all those "buckles" leftovers in a box. We found 'em and replaced 'em accordingly. Works just fine for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steamboatrailer Posted November 25, 2009 Report Share Posted November 25, 2009 On the hill I always have a dime (coin).For micro adjusts.Those springs do work,and you should feel the difference with a1/4 turn,I do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ernie00 Posted December 7, 2009 Report Share Posted December 7, 2009 How much adjustment can you get from those springs ? I just got my RC-10 and will be testing them tonight. Can you turn that top knob a lot or as Steamboatrailer says a 1/4 turn will make a big difference ? thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjvircks Posted December 7, 2009 Report Share Posted December 7, 2009 From what I can tell... there is very little boot cuff travel before the spring is completely compressed and boot's cuff flex characteristics becomes the predominant factor. And so... there is some spring controlled softness at the onset of a large flex, but not as much as one might think. Perhaps this is why the BTS springs are so long... more range of travel before the springs fully compress and become rock-solid. I'd like to compare the spring rate of my UPZ springs to the BTS springs. It looks like my UPZ springs could be much stiffer than BTS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjvircks Posted December 7, 2009 Report Share Posted December 7, 2009 I think that maybe a tiny C spanner is the tool to have. http://www.bitzforbikes.co.uk/photo/164500.JPG The area around each "nut" is very constricted and does not allow the use of this type of tool. I use the wide screwdriver on my swiss army knife (standard "what do you bring with you"). A butter knife would work too, but it is very rare that I have one on the hill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
queequeg Posted December 7, 2009 Report Share Posted December 7, 2009 From what I can tell... there is very little boot cuff travel before the spring is completely compressed and boot's cuff flex characteristics becomes the predominant factor. And so... there is some spring controlled softness at the onset of a large flex, but not as much as one might think. Perhaps this is why the BTS springs are so long... more range of travel before the springs fully compress and become rock-solid. I'd like to compare the spring rate of my UPZ springs to the BTS springs. It looks like my UPZ springs could be much stiffer than BTS These were my thoughts about the springs initially-however, if you adjust your forward lean such that the springs are in their uncompressed/neutral state in the position that your rear knee would normally be while actively carving, I do not find this to be the case. Adjust the boots this way and the length of the springs (seems) adequate for pretty much the full range of motion you would need while carving. At least, so it would seem from my carpet-carving tests so far at home ... maybe I won't see it the same way when I (finally) hit the snow this weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tex1230 Posted December 7, 2009 Report Share Posted December 7, 2009 check the adjustment before the season starts last year - first day on those boots - I was halfway down the mountain and noticed tat my rear boot wouldn't flex - The nut had fallen off the end of the bolt and gotten wedged in the channel there - took me a good 20 minutes to get it working again. Check your gear! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ear dragger Posted December 7, 2009 Report Share Posted December 7, 2009 i ride these boots and bought extra buckles from dan, but have not broken one in 2 seasons! the springs are tough to move but i leave em pretty tight. i enjoy a really stiff boot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cousin of Beagle Posted December 7, 2009 Report Share Posted December 7, 2009 Last year, Dan Yoja suggested to remove a spring for a softer boot. http://www.bomberonline.com/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=240426&postcount=144 He contacted UPZ, and that's what UPZ told him. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tenorman Posted December 7, 2009 Report Share Posted December 7, 2009 The area around each "nut" is very constricted and does not allow the use of this type of tool. I use the wide screwdriver on my swiss army knife (standard "what do you bring with you"). A butter knife would work too, but it is very rare that I have one on the hill. hi BJVIRCKS the burton hardboot tool (out of production for about 8 years) is specifically made for this purpose. the screwdriver part of the tool had a narrower spindle than the head so the spindle would not rub against the super tight opening in the boot through which you adjusted the spring. i'm in the city right now and left the tool out in the valley so i will try to post up a picture of the tool in a few weeks unless someone else has one and can do it for me. BORIS actually used this tool to adjust Steve D.'s boot so maybe he could suggest a good alternative since he seems to know more about tools than TIM ALLEN. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ursle Posted December 8, 2009 Report Share Posted December 8, 2009 Just waxed the intec cables(lithium grease on bicycle cables, to much h2o here, trying hard wax) and adjusted the springs, the top slot looks to be 3cm deep and 1cm wide, the bottom 2cm deep and 1cm wide so most any thin screwdriver(1cm) will fit right in and turn the nut. Going into their third season, grey tongues, Conformable liners, sure-foot foot beds, middle buckle on the rear foot went twice. Had the bottoms tight and the tops a little looser, loosened the bottoms and tightened the tops a touch(springs), going riding tomorrow:1luvu: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tenorman Posted March 3, 2010 Report Share Posted March 3, 2010 i will try to post up a picture of the tool in a few weeks was looking for something else in my barn when i stumbled upon this tool and remembered about this post. sorry for the delay: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petrol Posted March 3, 2010 Report Share Posted March 3, 2010 I've got one of those.... somewhere Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted March 3, 2010 Report Share Posted March 3, 2010 A dime works very well for the upper. VERY well, like it was designed to be used that way with the deep engagement and the easy-to-turn nut. I used needle-nose pliers on a leatherman tool to adjust the lower nut. Not what I'd normally like but they work well and no one can see the scratched nut anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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