D-Sub Posted December 4, 2007 Report Share Posted December 4, 2007 What characteristics would it have? As some of you know, I won a donek board a while back and still haven't done anything with the option. Im thinking I'd like to design an "all rounder" that really rocks in almost all conditions. Doesn't have to rule the bottomlines non-resort fluff, but something that: 1)carves almost as well as a carver 2)handles variable conditions with ease 3)floats well in powder 4)is forgiving, but still performs well I have this Prior that I scored a while back, and rode it in 30" of fresh a year ago at mammoth, and it RULED the entire hill. Only problem was that in the tight trees it was a bear at 182cm I'm thinkin 175ish, 23.5cm waist, 13m sidecut, directional of course...kinda like an Axis/4WD but leaning slightly towards a more "freeride" shape? just curious what you guys would like to see in a new design all-rounder, because if I do this, the board will be available to the public I believe once Sean has the template for it. PLEASE don't post "just buy a tanker" or something stupid like that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strider Posted December 4, 2007 Report Share Posted December 4, 2007 I've been considering trying to do the exact same thing for a new board next year. I like the waist width and the sidecut on the specs you posted, but have also been considering getting a tail that has a decent upturn to it so I could ride switch when I wanted to. The board I really want to make would carve well, but also handle the bumps, inconsistent snow, and the occasional forray into the halfpipe. For out west I think you're length works well too, but ireally was looking more for a 169 since most of my riding is here in the midwest. I'm psyched to see what you come up with. I think the hardest part of this is figuring out the flex pattern that will work well across the board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pokkis Posted December 4, 2007 Report Share Posted December 4, 2007 My personal vote goes something like this, without that small blem, with polished surface and orange sticker on nose and it to be called FatJack :rolleyes: I mean metal feels to be working so well also outside of prepared slopes too. 177 cm. New! Custom 23.1cm waist. There is a small blem on the left hand sidewall that has been repaired and will not effect performance. Sintered graphite base with Black topsplice. One year limited warranty included. (Serial #10951) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pebu Posted December 4, 2007 Report Share Posted December 4, 2007 I'd imagine you've been there before, but check out www.grafsnowboards.com if you haven't already. I learned a heck of alot about board construction there and I even downloaded the board design tool that Dan Graf put together. This is more or less for anybody who reads it, not just D-Sub, as I'd imagine he/you already know all about board construction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BadBrad Posted December 4, 2007 Report Share Posted December 4, 2007 For a board like that from Donek, I would take a stock Axxess and give it a bigger radius, a bit more width, and a little more rounded tail. For me that would mean something like an Axxess 167 with a 10.5-11m sidecut. Keep the nose and tail width the same, but increase the radius by making the waist a little bit wider. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Dahl Posted December 4, 2007 Report Share Posted December 4, 2007 180 delrossi/tucker with Olympic construction is pretty close to what you have in mind. Add your own topsheet/diecut base graphics and go riding! Mine would be a 167ish Axxess, 12m sidecut, Olympic construction with wood topsheet and diecut base graphics of my own design. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D.T. Posted December 4, 2007 Report Share Posted December 4, 2007 I had a 180cm Donek Tucker (freeride). Specs: 24.1cm waist, 12.3m SCR, 3mm taper... Great board! I was riding it with SnoPro's and Garmont Ski/Mountaineering boots. I bought it to use as my back country board, but I just don't spend enough days hiking. My preference would be to do something a little stiffer. Probably like 182cm Nyberg AX. I think it would be a sweet ride! Maybe keep the nose width, decrease the tail width, resulting in an increased SCR with some setback. I am also intrigued by the Dupraz D1++. Maybe after I kill my current Tanker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted December 4, 2007 Report Share Posted December 4, 2007 It's a Coiler AM 172, 12m sidecut, Titanal, 21.5 waist. You're bigger than me so longer and wider as you suggest would be a plus, and I could probably enjoy my deck just as much with a 13m radius as I do with a 12m. The titanal in mine is a key component to "handles variable conditions with ease" though, and it "carves better than most of the carvers I have ridden" so in that sense it one-ups your criteria. I dunno if Sean would allow you to pay the difference for a titanal upgrade, he was talking about titanal at the beginning of the year, I urge you to think about it. Don't forget to make sure it's tapered. A little goes a long with with float and variable conditions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D.T. Posted December 4, 2007 Report Share Posted December 4, 2007 I have this Prior that I scored a while back, and rode it in 30" of fresh a year ago at mammoth, and it RULED the entire hill. Only problem was that in the tight trees it was a bear at 182cmWhat model? Was it just the length that made it difficult to ride in the tight trees? Would a softer board have made it easier?I'm thinkin 175ish, 23.5cm waistSeems a little short for good flotation. IIRC, you are a member of the "Clydesdale" weight classification (not a slam, so am I). I have found that I would rather error on the side of too long than too short.Just remember, going from a 182cm (Prior @ Mammoth) to a 175cm board, you are talking about a difference 7cm (2.76 inches). IMO, I do not think that that small amount of length would have made any difference for you on that Prior. There has been only one time that I found my 192 Tanker too long for tight trees. Then again, I had less then 6 inches total clearance between my shoulders and the trees. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inkaholic Posted December 4, 2007 Report Share Posted December 4, 2007 There has been only one time that I found my 192 Tanker too long for tight trees. Then again, I had less then 6 inches total clearance between my shoulders and the trees. There was less than 6 inches total clearance between D.T.'s arse and the trees so don't use that measurement for anything but fun. Ink Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D.T. Posted December 4, 2007 Report Share Posted December 4, 2007 There was less than 6 inches total clearance between D.T.'s arse and the trees so don't use that measurement for anything but fun.Ink Dat means yo big ole head woodn't fit tween dem trees! now back to your regularly scheduled program... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobdea Posted December 4, 2007 Report Share Posted December 4, 2007 It's a Coiler AM 172, 12m sidecut, Titanal, 21.5 waist. You're bigger than me so longer and wider as you suggest would be a plus, and I could probably enjoy my deck just as much with a 13m radius as I do with a 12m.The titanal in mine is a key component to "handles variable conditions with ease" though, and it "carves better than most of the carvers I have ridden" so in that sense it one-ups your criteria. I dunno if Sean would allow you to pay the difference for a titanal upgrade, he was talking about titanal at the beginning of the year, I urge you to think about it. Don't forget to make sure it's tapered. A little goes a long with with float and variable conditions. Yup, Mike said pretty much what I was going to. other than the titanal the other thing is the flex, the axxess is soft up front and stiffens further back. this makes the board feel like the purecarves, burton FP and allot of other classic boards but built to a much higher standard than the others. This is one of of things I like about the Prior WCR metal, similar to the coiler AM (but not nearly as much) it's soft in the middle but not a noodle in front of the binding. this allows you to just blast though anything without getting tossed around. even on race decks I like it but it really makes the most difference when charging through ruts and crud on a AM type board. ad the dampness of metal and you have a real winner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C5 Golfer Posted December 5, 2007 Report Share Posted December 5, 2007 I probably have not ridden as many boards as some of you board whores but I have ridden a few -- my "one" built board would be very similar to the Prior 4WD in 179 length. That has been one of the most versatile boards I have plus it has the topo map of Whistler Blackcomb for a top sheet so I can always find home. But have just "one" board is kinda like having only one car or girlfriend - just not possible! HERE is what Prior says on its web site. The 4WD is designed for the hard-boot snowboarder who wants to put the fun back into technical carving and ride the entire mountain. Its stable, versatile ride has made it the most popular board in its class for several years running. The 2008 4WD has new triaxial fiberglass with dual carbon stringers, a new aspen/maple core configuration for improved performance and control in all winter conditions. Riders Recreational and advanced alpine snowboarders who want all-mountain performance; hard-boot BX competitors seeking gold at intermediate and World Cup races. Ride An alpine ride that is smooth, stable, responsive and versatile. Conditions Performs in all terrain: ice, groom, fall line, powder, moguls, steeps, crud, etc. Design Shape: The 4WD is a wider version of our Alpine WCR model with additional sidecut. The rounded out tail reduces hangup off the finish of each turn. Radius: Moderate for easy turning edge-to-edge control. Flex: Moderately stiff. The new aspen/maple core configuration creates a more even overall flex pattern from tip to tail. Strength: Bombproof. All Prior boards are built to last. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derf Posted December 5, 2007 Report Share Posted December 5, 2007 My "one board to ule them" all would be a Coiler AMX 169 - 19 cm wide. I don't ride long board, no place here and I don't ride enough in a year to master it properly, and I didn't like my experience with a wider board, so a narrow AM shape with easy carving flex would fit my bill, but YMMV. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pow Posted December 5, 2007 Report Share Posted December 5, 2007 It'd be short enough to wield in trees and crowds, with a sidecut long enough to EC in the steeps. It would be narrow enough to make edge to edge transitions simple and quick. It would be able to ride powder, very well. It would be quiet when riding bumpy terrain. It would be lively on fresh groom. It would be near indistructible. It would look beautiful, even after taking a beating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b0ardski Posted December 5, 2007 Report Share Posted December 5, 2007 cool dsub! I think you got it about right. however for me (6 ft, 180 lb, agressive rider, flexy boots) 11m quadratic sidecut for trees, twin tip ,even med flex, 2-3mm max taper or switch'll be a bitch. oh yea, goofy asym w/minimal shift:eplus2: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NateW Posted December 5, 2007 Report Share Posted December 5, 2007 For me the sweet spots are roughly: length 175 waist 19 sidecut 13 and a lifted/rounded tail I have gotten boards with near those parameters, but not quite exactly, as I've been zeroing in on my personal 'one' board. I think I will have one by the end of this season though, from a new builder in my area: http://www.happymonkeysnowboards.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thumper Posted December 5, 2007 Report Share Posted December 5, 2007 I'm thinkin 175ish, 23.5cm waist, 13m sidecut, directional of course...kinda like an Axis/4WD but leaning slightly towards a more "freeride" shape? Those dimensions look good. I'd add about 4 to 5mm of taper to help achieve your variable condition, powder and forgiveness design goals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
felix Posted December 5, 2007 Report Share Posted December 5, 2007 For me it would be bout 190-195cm long but Swallowtail with very long Nose. I'ld imagine effective edge lenght about the same length as in 175cm cheater GS boards with about 14-15m radius. Maybe a bit like taking a 175cm Swoard cutting a V-Tail into it (off course using a stronger tail as it is split now) and adding a nose like on a Dupraz D1. Taper 3-4mm, not more. With the V-Tail it shouldn't need any more. Oh and the nose should be very soft, without wood core but just plain 2x titanal, rubber triax fibres, P-Tex and topsheet. Off course sandwich 2x titanal sidewall construction. Titanal ground belt is needed against eventual rocks from below. however normal topsheet, as I'm not that happy but titanal as a topsheet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
svr Posted December 5, 2007 Report Share Posted December 5, 2007 A titanal swallowtail sounds pretty fun...with tinkler snow stix to adjust the flex based on conditions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b0ardski Posted December 5, 2007 Report Share Posted December 5, 2007 adjustable control arms!?!Too cool:cool: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BadBrad Posted December 5, 2007 Report Share Posted December 5, 2007 Yup, Mike said pretty much what I was going to.other than the titanal the other thing is the flex, the axxess is soft up front and stiffens further back. this makes the board feel like the purecarves, burton FP and allot of other classic boards but built to a much higher standard than the others. This is one of of things I like about the Prior WCR metal, similar to the coiler AM (but not nearly as much) it's soft in the middle but not a noodle in front of the binding. this allows you to just blast though anything without getting tossed around. even on race decks I like it but it really makes the most difference when charging through ruts and crud on a AM type board. ad the dampness of metal and you have a real winner. Wouldn't a board that is stiffer toward the back tend to dive in powder? Just wondering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobdea Posted December 5, 2007 Report Share Posted December 5, 2007 not really, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Prokopiw Posted December 5, 2007 Report Share Posted December 5, 2007 My one board will be a slightly softer version of my Coiler am 182 (so it will be a little less work riding switch)with a tail that is almost identical to the nose and a waist that is slightly wider at around 21 cm rather than the current 19.5.That means it will end up being about a 200 twin tip.I'm only partially kidding about this as it might end up more in the 190 range.In other words,an extra narrow Tanker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gecko Posted December 5, 2007 Report Share Posted December 5, 2007 from Donek I would order a custom Axxes...172cm long 23.5wide and a big 12m sidecut....maybe Olympic but probably no bells and whistles just a good general purpose board Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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