MikeC

Hard to tell what the grip system looks like. If its positive grip or if it uses those clips that are wound into the cable. But looking at this is seems like the part that failed was the retainer that keeps the chair on the pin that it pivots on. The two bolts they are talking about could be a retaining cap. If the bolts were over torqued and plasticized then they could have sheared of due to a shock or just vibration. Second photo is a retaining system that uses a cotter pin...

I know it's long shot, but I'm looking to buy this back from whoever I sold it to...

Are you racing a course set with ski gates? That's always an adventure.

Bomber makes UPM mounts, if you didn't know.

Thanks. I am not looking for another model, just the ones I mentioned.

Search concluded. Thanks.

Was hoping to meet you at Shawnee Jack. See at at the SR race if it ever happens?

I'm talking snowboard. I'm aware of the GS regs for skiing. These don't exist for snowboards AFAIK.

Depends on where you get your excitement...

This is what I was getting at. Is there a reason courses are being set that allow these speeds to be reached, where shedding speed is required? Vs. setting a course that has more cross-hill movement.

Curious as to others opinions on the amount of stivoting seen in todays racing. I.e. the sliding of the board on gate approach before locking onto the edge. It's done is skiing a lot, if there is an alpine specific term I have not heard it.

When I raced I used Driver Xs and still use them for freeriding. I have cranked down on them and slouched to see how they flex. (Not much).

Check out the Track 700 and the location of the strap.

Low 60s for me. Discipline does not matter. I would add that you should experiment rather than go off of what other people use. Waist width,stance width, cant angles, heigh of binding and or plate system... All factors.

Interesting. Do they provide replacement sliders? Seems like it would be a pretty cheap part made on CNC.

Looks like some kind of dovetail joint. Crazy thin.

Jack hopefully we can meet up finally this year... getting back in it since I left after Nationals 2012. Bruce is building me a 180 NSR, can't wait!

Looking for a pair of Track 700s in M29. Prefer the edition with red body and white tongue but open to others. Thanks

Here is the info I received, take it for what it's worth. Model: Axxess Length: 177 Waist: 21.5cm Sidecut: 10-12m serial number 3697

Hardboots are obsolete in a successful racers quiver these days. Courses are not conducive to hardboots at all.

Can someone point out how guys pedal a plate and somehow transfer that force to the board itself? The fixed point and sliding point should completely eliminate the ability to pedal the plate, unless the plate flexes enough to hit the board? Anyways I love the 5mm version...just bought another.

Only been to Copper but I've always felt the forecast was only good to a certain elevation. Many days have been firm snow up top and corn at the base. What really does the snow in is the sun.

Glad to hear you had good results. I find the biggest hurdle for most people is committing to the turn, it can be a little scary leaning all the way over and hoping the edge holds. Like you say toeside is a little more tricky. When I am freeriding or racing I always take my heelside hand and reach toward my front boot/heelside edge. This must be done while bending your knees, if you bend your hips to make the reach you'll load your nose and bad things can happen. By reaching toward the front boot slightly you will put some light pressure on the nose, however it will be balanced out by the fact that your crouch is forcing the entire edge into the snow. This can be progressively done down the hill on a low piste trail, start slow and increase aggressiveness as you make your way down the hill. Once you progress (and ride try slalom sized board) you will realize that you can carve very aggressively on very low piste trails, as the G forces help to drive you through the turn. It is a little harder on a steeper trail/longer radius board as you need the speed to keep from falling over. Hope that makes sense? I've never tried to explain things in words, only by show.

I will not be much help here as I have always been coached in terms of racing but: Lean forward more, you seem to have quite an arch from the head to your waist. You mention wanting to get lower to the ground like the extreme carvers do, my number one tip here is that you should never bend at the waist to try and reach the ground (on toeside turns), this will do all sorts of bad things to your form. Toeside is a bit harder but heelside isn't too bad. Try initiating your heelside turn and reaching toward your toeside edge. This will drive your butt down and the heelside edge into the snow. It may take some commitment and you might skid out the first couple of times. Once you get the feeling right you can manipulate how hard the drive is by how hard you reach. As others mentioned you might try widening your stance. Once this is done the last thing I can recommend is to try and overpower the board, it seems as though you are just along for the ride in the video. Being aggressive goes a long way in terms of turn performance. A racers $.02.

'Tis sold. Thanks Francois!