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Name Your Top 5 Performance Improvements to Your Riding


barryj

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1. Moving from a board with no edges or side cut to a Burton Safari.

2. Moving to a ski-town: nothing beats milage.

3. Riding carving boards all mountain, all conditions.

4. Alpine snowboard camps with Kevin Delaney: 19(?) years ago alpine techniques were a mystery, he had a solid understanding and shared.

5. Cross training and getting stronger: this may just have been icing, but it was a huge boost in my riding at the time.

Most of my "performance" just seems to be muscle memory at this point.

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1. 1990 PJ6 was a huge step from my Crazy Banana

1. Finding BOL and with that great friends and riders. Listening and asking for feedback.

2. ECES 2003- ordered my 1st Donek - game changer

3. ECES 2006 - watching video footage of some bad habits, Billy Bordy worked with me on my stance, angles, and boot set up.

4. Learning how to carve on steeps and ice.

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Yes...I did a search...ok only one, but let's try this:

Like it says: Name the top improvements that had a major improvement on your riding.

For me: not any any order,

1- New Deeluxe Suzuka Boots - you don't want to know how old my old pair were!

2- New Virus Board - uh, same as above on my old board

3- Additional lift on rear binding

4- Boot bias really made it come together

Uh, hey Crash, you forgot running into me and Shred when you were just starting out.:D

remember, you would go straight like a nut then expolde in a cloud of snow.

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  1. Five days of carving lessons when I was about 12
  2. Riding with great riders at SOS, ECES, SQS
  3. Riding a metal Coiler built for my weight on hardpack
  4. Adding flex back to my system - yellow TD3s, blue BTS on T700
  5. Watching video of myself and others
  6. FEELING THE FUN instead of thinking the technique!

To me, carving sounds like 'wheeeeeeeee!'

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1. consistently riding road bikes , a tierney board and swimming

2 having fun, letting it happen and taking a whole-body approach (not just quads and abs)

3. close eye on nutrition and maintaining the same anatomy year to year

4. riding in all conditions at every opportunity

5. good boards, bindings and boots

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1. Gilmour Bias (the simplest and most important power transmission through to the board- put your weight where it works)

2. Riding alone on the slopes including the lift so I had to think about what I just did on the lift instead of chit chatting.

3. Season passes and steep terrain.

4. Hurling myself at the snow and making sure my board is there to catch me.

5. Making other peoples poorly designed crap flexing decks work with good technique (ever wonder why I try to carve on a powder board?), so I can apply solid techniques to great gear.

Tryin' to look stylin' fo all dem bitches....(that actually don't exist in large numbers at any ski resorts.) but at least you can pretend so you ride harder and faster.

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1. Gilmour Bias (the simplest and most important power transmission through to the board- put your weight where it works)

2. Riding alone on the slopes including the lift so I had to think about what I just did on the lift instead of chit chatting.

3. Season passes and steep terrain.

4. Hurling myself at the snow and making sure my board is there to catch me.

5. Making other peoples poorly designed crap flexing decks work with good technique (ever wonder why I try to carve on a powder board?), so I can apply solid techniques to great gear.

Tryin' to look stylin' fo all dem bitches....(that actually don't exist in large numbers at any ski resorts.) but at least you can pretend so you ride harder and faster.

So thats why you didn't show up any day at SES. Why try the new gear at the demo tent when you just hurl yourself at the snow on your crap flexing decks?

:smashfrea

Or maybe you were being held captive in a cougar den??

:flamethro

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In order of discovery for me:

1. Lots and lots of reading about technique and watching videos. (No locals to learn from) Thanks to all the contributors on BOL!

2. Pushing my limits every day I ride. If I'm not crashing/sliding out then I'm coasting and need to try something new.

3. Properly-sized boots and thermo liners. Hey, my feet don't hurt any more!

4. Riding a few different boards with wildly different properties. The good habits tend to work on many different boards while the bad habits may only work on one.

5. Going to SES & NES and riding with/learning from awesome riders. A special thanks to Steve R., Darcy, and Shaun Cassidy (sp?) for their guidance and tips!

I find that the advancements come very frequently when getting started, then it gets harder and harder to make small steps. That's pretty much the same for everything you learn in life though!

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"push-pull":

To me this technique is the secret to carving narrow, double-black steeps in soft boots (and when I mean soft boots I mean freestyle angles: 24/12 or less where you are really in that awkward "heal/toe" carving mode (and especially so on the healside ! ).

Now push-pull has nothing to do with dragging your body on the slope (which is just drag that is best avoided) but has to do with its ability to remove G-forces from the board at the most demanding part of the carve so the board won't skid out from under you. You see, by having your legs fully extended, and the board high on edge before its even pointed straight downhill, permits you to remove g-forces from the board when it hits its point of max loading (as it nears a perpendicular run to the true fall line) by allowing you to flex your fully extended knees (ie; you "pull" the boards towards you while giving it a slight upslope "point"). This takes a huge amount of g-forces off he board and allows it to carve a clean line under you. Remember, you can't "pull" g-forces of the board if you are already fully compressed. That is why you have to get your legs fully extended just before the board encounters its maximum g-forces, you go to be ready, to have something in reserve to "give back". Of course, once the carve attack is complete you get ready for the next attack by getting fully extended once again, ready to compress, ready to pull g-forces off the board in the next carve. And so it goes... back and forth, healside to toeside, until there is no more double black slope left... ahhh... too bad,, we are in the boring flats now.

of course you can then take these exact same double-black "push-pull" skills to the flatlands and have the ultimate fun with it.

all you need to do is preserve about 40 mph and make sure no one is behind you ;)

but that's a post for another day ...

(( the other 4 performance improvements don't rate a mention here ))

Edited by sic t 2
spell
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post-7136-141842362044_thumb.jpg

1/ Boots that fit my foot shape (HSPs, wide forefoot & slim heel), coupled with mouldable liners, insoles, and moving my Intec cable to the inside of my heel. Result: Comfortable, well supported feet. No pain!

2/ Finding a balanced stance, in particular on my front foot, with the correct combination of toe & heel lift and canting. What is right for me ( 3 deg toe lift, 6 deg heel lift, no canting), won't necessarily be right for you. Received very good advice about how to go about this via Erik Beckmann. Result: Easy to ride one footed off lifts etc and well balanced on the board generally.

Spending some time on the gentlest of Green slopes working on slowly carving all of every turn. How?

3/ Angulation: keeping my upper body erect, while my pelvis/legs follow the angle of the board.

It helped that I was trying to keep a video camera on the side of my helmet as stable and parallel to the horizon as possible.

I also imagined I was holding a tray in front of me with cups on and trying not to spill them. Result: Quiet upright upper body, with weight kept centred or slightly forward and no trailing arms.

4/ Concentrating on applying edge pressure with the outside/upper knee in the turn.

What do I mean? When I turn left, my right leg is on the outside of the turn, and when I turn right, my left knee is on the outside. When the board goes up onto its' edge, the outside knee also becomes the upper knee.

I concentrate on pushing the inside of the upper knee down towards the snow as I carve the turn. When I do this, the edge bites, the board carves a beautiful groove, and I don't fall. Heelside and toeside turns become equally clean carves. When I forget, I skid the turn or fall.

5/ Get a lower body position by bending my knees. This helps me to soak up both the bumps, but also the times that the edge slips away from me momentarily. It also helps me get the board even more up on its' edge.

For me, the key to making the transition to consistent clean carves was practicising 3 & 4 on a slope where I didn't have to worry about picking up too much speed, with plenty of run off room, so that I could think each turn through. Then practising until the angulation, balance & knee weighting became almost completely automatic.

SunSurfer

Edited by SunSurfer
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my top 5. Ridding with and talking to.

Billy Bordy

Billy Bordy

Billy Bordy

Billy Bordy

and last, Billy Bordy.

--------------------

Ha ha! Billy is on my list, too.

1. Jeorg Egli Pureboarding Clinic. Powerful new techniques that are fun to practice and have me on the verge of becoming a legit carver.

2. Mount Hood Summer Snowboard Camp - 7 days of bluebird riding in July! Bordy was my coach. His advice, and enthusiasm, were priceless. Cleaned up my stance . . . Keep your shoulders level with the slope!

3. Season Pass

4. A longer board. It won't help everyone, but I was riding a Donek 162 Axxis and had plateaued. Another hardbooter lent me his old F2 186 Speedster. It was stable as a jetliner at speed and gave me new confidence. I ordered a used Prior 183 WCRM the next week. Now,when I go back to the Donek, I ride it a lot better.

5. NASTAR racing. The handicaps may be suspicious, and the skiers ruts sketchy, but the times don't lie. 10 bucks to challenge yourself in the gates all afternoon is a bargain.

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