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Skwal Riders General Discussion


mikel45

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I rode the Easy Jungle myself on good hardpack a couple of weeks ago. It is fun when going slow, but one quickly outruns the 8m sidecut. When riding it hard and "in the groove" I have to concentrate on keeping my speed down and flipping quick slalom turns. It is fun for a while, but exhausting on big, long runs. For me it would be a good crowded resort board. As a learning tool, I think it is very useful for first timers.

On the ongoing stance width cultural divide, I have been riding my Donek 179 "Mr. Flaccid" at 15 3/8" for the past several days. This is the narrowest I've gone so far, and I don't think I like it. Maybe I will try changing my toe/heel lift settings at this stance before going back towards 15 7/8"-ish. It's weird how these seemingly very small differences are quite noticeable on a skwal.

I've been having some minor challenges getting a skwal tuned at a shop. It seems like the tooling on the expensive automated machines won't deal with a board so narrow. Most alpine snowboards are handled fine by changing the location of suction cups in the machine, but a skwal just doesn't work. These machines won't allow for the skwal to be treated like a fat ski unless two identical boards are available. It sure seems like a design limitation in these Montanas and Wintersteigers. So my skwals have to go through standalone machines that use pressure wheels on top. This requires all stomp pads or other things on the topsheet to be removed, something that I find to be inconvenient.

Edited by ExcelsiorTheFathead
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I've been having some minor challenges getting a skwal tuned at a shop. It seems like the tooling on the expensive automated machines won't deal with a board so narrow. Most alpine snowboards are handled fine by changing the location of suction cups in the machine, but a skwal just doesn't work. These machines won't allow for the skwal to be treated like a fat ski unless two identical boards are available. It sure seems like a design limitation in these Montanas and Wintersteigers. So my skwals have to go through standalone machines that use pressure wheels on top. This requires all stomp pads or other things on the topsheet to be removed, something that I find to be inconvenient.

You need to find an "old school" shop, and someone competent to do it "by hand". Someone who knows how to tune not just run a machine. Someone with a "light touch" also. I've seen many a board ground into oblivion by a heavy handed tech. You may have to go over the hill to find that special shop. Ask a racer they generally know who's who.

Don

Feed the addiction...

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  • 2 weeks later...

Greetings

New from CT

Saw someone doing this at Mohawk and I'm hooked. Looking for a board, hoping to be able to use ski boots to start. Don't know enough to really ask the right questions yet, I do know I NEED to do this.

Never been on a board, skiing for 25 years.....Charge

Edited by JohnCT
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Greetings, choose the path of least resistance. You do not want to get hurt/injured. Borrow/rent some soft boot gear and get a bit of time to learn some basic board handling techniques, and focus on carving with said softs using 60/60 angles. This will help you in the long run. Then give a skwal a try, using slow control speeds and just get down the hill. If you are feeling comfortable, do a carve here and there. Every one out there started at the beginning and obtained foundation skills. You are no different. There is a learning curve and if you stick with it, you will get it. Also, it would help if you had some one to show you what is up. Berkshire East has rental gear in the alpine board area. So I am told. This would help as well. Also, snow conditions play a big part in carving. Good luck, Robert

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Greetings

New from CT

Saw someone doing this at Mohawk and I'm hooked. Looking for a board, hoping to be able to use ski boots to start. Don't know enough to really ask the right questions yet, I do know I NEED to do this.

Never been on a board, skiing for 25 years.....Charge

Hi John! Welcome to the forum!

This is Chris. I stopped and chatted with you about this the other day at Mohawk and handed you the card. I will be there later this afternoon, will keep an eye out for you!

I am in the process of getting a few other boards that I can hopefully let you try. I do have a Donek skwal just sitting around that I'd be happy to let you try. I don't have any bindings at the moment that fit ski boots, but I think I can figure that out. I've been doing this for many years and can supply you with the right info.

Welcome to the Dark Side...:eplus2:

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  • 6 months later...

Let's dust off the Skwal thread.

1. I broke Mr. Flaccid. I didn't notice until the last day of the previous season when I was removing the bindings for storage. There was a small bump in the topsheet just forward of the front binding, indicating some kind of compression failure. It likely happened in the soft spring snow in one of those almost-stuffing-it incidents when the nose came to a quick stop. But this was bound to happen because Mr. Flaccid was a factory reject that was accidentally made with a too-thin core, giving it the right flex for a 100 lb girl. I thought that this softness would make it a forgiving skwal to learn on, and it turned out to be true. I'm surprised that he lasted as long as he did. I don't think that there is any hope of fixing him up with some kind of implant, so out to pasture he goes. I have a nice replacement on order.

2. Review of the Coda Edge Skwal. When I decided last season to ride only skwals, I needed something that would ride reasonably well in powder and other non-carving situations. The Coda skwal with its swallowtail design seemed like it could work for this, so I had a custom one made. The stock size is a relatively huge 185cm that I thought would be too stiff for me, so mine is a 177 with a lighter flex. I had extra inserts installed 4cm behind center so that I could shift my stance way back on a powder day. My custom board has a sub 10m radius and is a great short-turn carver on hardpack. In powder I shift the bindings way back and am able to get reasonable float.

Given good snow conditions and grooming I'd take out a longer-radius carving skwal rather than this board because the short slalom turns that it makes are exhausting. But if I had to travel and could only take one board, I'd reach for the Coda first. It is the most versatile thing in the quiver: tight carving, pow and AT versatility (within reason), crowded slope maneuverability, and lower angles for more control.

Much has been said about the fit and finish of Coda boards. Sure, they aren't as polished as others but I think the price is right and to my experience Chad supports his products pretty well. It is what it is.

Finally, everyone on the hill will take one look and say: "What the F is that thing"?

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi I'm pretty new to the Skwal and psyched to get more time on it this upcoming year. Last spring I bought a beautiful new SkwalUSA Carver 171, but I didn't have the funds for the rest of the gear so I just rode it with some snowblade bindings and a pair of ski boots. That was OK but with the stiffish boots and the 0* rear foot angle it wasn't very comfortable. But the Skwal is a BLAST! It really does corner like a sportbike...so much fun!

For this year I've already picked up some UPZ RC-10's with Intec heels and am now looking at bindings...I'm leaning toward the Bomber TD3 step ins with 6* rear cant and probably 3* front. How does that sound?

2014-10-25%2013.11.07_zpsyy9dds28.jpg 20141025_115328-1_zpsfxkrkwz0.jpg

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Hi I'm pretty new to the Skwal and psyched to get more time on it this upcoming year. Last spring I bought a beautiful new SkwalUSA Carver 171, but I didn't have the funds for the rest of the gear so I just rode it with some snowblade bindings and a pair of ski boots. That was OK but with the stiffish boots and the 0* rear foot angle it wasn't very comfortable. But the Skwal is a BLAST! It really does corner like a sportbike...so much fun!

For this year I've already picked up some UPZ RC-10's with Intec heels and am now looking at bindings...I'm leaning toward the Bomber TD3 step ins with 6* rear cant and probably 3* front. How does that sound?

2014-10-25%2013.11.07_zpsyy9dds28.jpg 20141025_115328-1_zpsfxkrkwz0.jpg

No doubt the Bombers are great bindings. I ride similar angles. Personnaly I like a little more rear lift though. I believe Ace won't ride anything else. Personally I prefer the Catek bindings. Infinite adjustments to find your own personal "sweet spot". Hard to come by tho, and no factory

support. The biggest advantage, that I find, is the ability to adjust lift and cant. Also coming from a ski background I like the total stiffness of the Cateks.

Don

Feed the Addiction...

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This might be too obvious, but make sure you order the Skwal version of the TD3s, otherwise the bases will be far too wide. I ride Cateks at something like 3 degrees lift on front and back with a relatively wide stance close to 40cm. Higher amounts of lift feel weird to me, but everybody is different, just like how some guys prefer the really short stances. The infinite adjustability of Cateks is a plus, but the base plates are 126-7mm in diameter, which is wider than many Skwals. In this case you have to live with the weirdness of the binding being wider than the board, or grind it down somehow. (how do other guys deal with this?)

Anyhoo, I might start with 3/3 unless you really know you want 3/6. Maybe Ace (Chris) could chime in. The old Thias-branded Snowpro Skwal bindings had a built-in lift of approximately 3/3.

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Hi Mak, I ride the bomber td3 skwal on a 14 cm waist width board that has a 9.0scr. The td3's fit fine on the 14 waist, 9.0 scr,but any less than 14 you may have overhang of the base plate on the td3. That skwal you have looks very narrow, I would advise you to check your width at the inserts so you will know if the td3 skwal binding base plate will fit with out overhang.

I ride 3 deg front , 3 deg rear. I tried 3 front , 6 rear and loved it, the 3/6 had a lot more control but after a few hours with the 3/6 I felt some rear knee stress, and enough stress that would cause problems if I kept doing it. So I went back to 3/3 and am fine with it. I do know another who rides 3/6 all the time for years and has had no problem, ... bottom line here is we are all different , try what you want to, if it works, good. If you feel pain , change something.

I will measure my td3 skwal base width and post later. good luck, Rob from Loon Mt, if you can make it to loon this winter, let me know, pm

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I ride in Nordica ski boots. They don't have near the forward lean of an alpine hardboot. As such that's why I like more heel lift. I did have a narrower than baseplate Skwal. I just cut the sides down to match the base. Didn't hurt anything. I was advised, from Donek, to run a Lexan or simular riser on metal boards. The round binding baseplate can be a bend/break point.

Don

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Thanks for the replies...yes my board is very narrow, it's only 11.5 at the base and with the angled sidewalls it's only 10.5 at the topsheet. That's something I was really concerned with about the TD3. Does anyone use the PHK bindings? Those *look* considerably narrower but I haven't seen any actual dimensions, also it doesn't seem like they're easy to buy in the US? I'll start looking at Cateks too.

Rob, I might have to make a trip to Loon! It would be cool to follow around a more experienced rider...I have a weekday pass at Wachussett and spend most of my weekend time in S. VT at Magic or Killington mainly.

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Most of the PHK bindings are easily narrow enough for sub-12cm skwals, I think. A while back I bought a pair of used Highlanders, but I wasn't able to make them work because implementing lift requires either lift plates that go under the entire binding, or lift wedges that go under the toe/heel blocks. I wrote about it in an earlier post. Many people have PHK cant wedges, but the lift wedges are harder to find. The cant wedges can't be used for creating lift. If not for the cost of getting PHK parts and the issues I had with my short UPZ boots, I might be using PHK now. Others have commented about making DIY wedges for PHK, but I'm lazy.

The Catek round baseplates employ the outer 1cm or so to hold the standard elastomer ring. If you have the thicker D3 elastomers, these are more of a disk that goes under the entire baseplate. I imagine that people either grind or cut away the part that sticks out, and perhaps also trim the elastomer back. I just purchased a used set of Catek polycarbonate plates in the narrowest 18cm width and will cut them down to fit my new Skwal. My old "Mr. Flaccid" Skwal might not have broke if I was using protective plates.

The new Skwal I have on order will be 126mm wide. I decided to go a little wider because I found myself "cuffing out", and it will coincidentally fit a Catek without having to grind it down. I've noted recently that Virus has a protection plate that I believe is 12cm wide, but pretty darn expensive.

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Welcome to the DARKSIDE!

Glad to see another skwal rider! On the east coast is a super bonus. We will have to ride together this year for sure. I would HIGHLY recommend Berkshire East for you weekend riding. A good number of carvers, great terrain, uncrowded slopes. Most VT riders ride at Stratton.

Nice board! I have yet to hear anything really from SkwalUSA, so your reviews would be helpful. As far as binding setup goes you have to do whatever works for you, that goes for the stance too. Some people like the narrow flat stance. I like to run Bomber TD3 Skwal, 3* front and rear, with a wider stance. I run those Catek polycarbonate spacers under my bindings only on my metal skwal only, not on my Thias.

One thing you might have an issue with using TD3 Skwal bindings is that the base is narrower than the top plate. So the base might fit, but the top will overhang. I have a slight overhang on my metal skwal which is a 12cm waist. Its not an issue when riding, but more overhang could be more problematic.

Be on the lookout(as I have been) for Bomber TD1 skwal bindings. These are EXTREMELY rare and hard to find. They look like the regular TD1, except the hole pattern on the top plate is rotated(45* i think) so you can run those more extreme angles.

Looking forward to hearing more from you!

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Not sure of your budget, but Virus Powerlock III might be an option worth considering. They come with an absorption plate thing similar to the Catek polycarbonate, but much thinner and no need to modify. I don't know the width of these off hand...

http://shop.virus-snowsports.com/en/shop/produkt/snowboard-binding/virus-powerlock-stepin-intec-snowboard-binding-raceboard-alpinboard-hardboot.htm

I know for sure you can get these bindings either straight from Virus, or Bola @ AllBoardSports (Boulder, CO). He is the Virus North America dealer, and dealer for many of the companies that do anything alpine. He also has an extensive "backroom" of stuff and knows what hes talking about. He might be able to help you out with PHK bindings/parts.

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