RkyMtn Posted November 19, 2009 Report Share Posted November 19, 2009 I've been boarding for 17 years, starting on a Burton 161 M6. No canting. Then a Burton Alp, no canting. I hear Sword also recommends no canting. Most people I talk to and see carving are using cants. I know that the canting allows you to open up your stance more, but I have heard that it hinders ability to put power to the edge. I would LOVE to hear comments from everyone on their experience and knowledge on this matter. Cheers and thanks! Eric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jp1 Posted November 19, 2009 Report Share Posted November 19, 2009 Personally to me it keeps my ankles in a better alignment with my knees and just makes riding more comfortable. I 'can't' imagine riding without it and would be interested to hear how "it hinders ability to put power to the edge." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobdea Posted November 19, 2009 Report Share Posted November 19, 2009 depends on you and your angles lots of people here over do it IMO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RkyMtn Posted November 19, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2009 depends on you and your angles lots of people here over do it IMO I'm currently running 3 degree front and rear, which seems to work fine, but have not tried my current board without cants, so I have no comparitive reference. What is your setup? Thanks, Eric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carvingchef Posted November 19, 2009 Report Share Posted November 19, 2009 I hear Sword also recommends no canting. Most people I talk to and see carving are using cants. I know that the canting allows you to open up your stance more, but I have heard that it hinders ability to put power to the edge.i believe Swoard recommends no canting because their boards are wider and allow for lower angles on the binding and also because of their style of riding, i know some people who normally use a 3 degree cant in the back but if they know they are going to some steeper runs they change it to 6 degrees, i personally use different cant and/or lift with different boards and occasionally i try something different and see if i like it or notevery individual have different reasons for their own stance set up and they are all valid but what it comes down to at the end is preference and whatever works for you, experiment with your set up until you find what YOU like or works best for YOU to sum it up, listen to everybody's opinion but decide for yourself what you like better Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave ESPI Posted November 19, 2009 Report Share Posted November 19, 2009 I've tried 0,3,6 canting. I like the 6 on my rear leg and 0 in front. It matches my body posture and ride style, and I felt most comfortable in this setup with no stress on my trailing ankle. It also makes it a bit easier to ride switch for me. But this is just MY OPINION ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobdea Posted November 19, 2009 Report Share Posted November 19, 2009 I'm currently running 3 degree front and rear, which seems to work fine, but have not tried my current board without cants, so I have no comparitive reference. What is your setup?Thanks, Eric that's probably fine I have done 3 and 3, 0 and 6, 2 and 5 was more refering to people I have seen with cateks maxed out or huge amounts of lateral cant Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobdea Posted November 19, 2009 Report Share Posted November 19, 2009 I find it odd that no one is saying in which direction the canting is going. I have a small amount of outward cant, which allows me to run a wider, more comfortable stance, as well as make up for my slightly, very slightly, bowed legs. I'm 5'6" and I run a 20" stance.Also, it sounds very counterintuitive to change ones cants depending on the relative steepness of the terrain. I assumed that was part of the equation. I run outward cant in the back the lower my angles the more I run. otherwise my knee hurts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueB Posted November 19, 2009 Report Share Posted November 19, 2009 On most on my carvers and AM carvers (angles from 50/40 to 65/60), I run back heel lift, front toe lift, no inward/outward canting. On bombers that boils down to 6/3 deg, on other bindings whatever shims are there to use (never bothered to work out the exact lift angles). On my freride and AM bump/play boards, I run "surf" stance, about 45/25. Still use quite a bit of rear heel lift combined with inward cant, but very little front toe lift. I widen my stance a bit for those. It seems that racers use quite a bit of toe/heel lift, again. Recent shots and videos of JJ Andeson show some monster heel lift in the rear binding! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b0ardski Posted November 19, 2009 Report Share Posted November 19, 2009 Canting is a very individual thing, as much as bootfitting. The efficiency of canting/lift depends on stance angles + bio-mechanics. Being more knock-kneed than bow legged I can't even imagine outward cant. Over the years I've tried most every combination and settled on 3* inward front & back with no toe or heel lift. I like wider boards so I can us a surfy stance, +/-30r - +/-40f. As the board gets narrower and boot out forces the angles over 50 a little heel lift feels good. For me 6* is too much for comfort, lift or cant. A combination of cant/lift (catek, TD 2/3) work well for me at higher angles. I highly recommend a good pocket tool and on hill experimentation to dail in your preference, but start with what feels comfortable standing on the board at home. Cateks work particularly well for on hill adjustments. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WinterGold Posted November 19, 2009 Report Share Posted November 19, 2009 Of course I agree that canting/lift is a very individual thing and you should feel comfortable, but let´s say you are completely neutral and you can handle flat bindings as well as some canting or lift. Then the question is - Are there any advantages or disadvantages concerning some canting and/or lift? Can you get more pressure on the edges or less? Or any other factors? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ursle Posted November 19, 2009 Report Share Posted November 19, 2009 So there's lift (to raise the toes or heels) and there's canting (side to side adjustment) I use catecks which allow infinite adjustment of lift and or canting. The wider the stance the more lift under the front foot toes and rear foot heel for creature comfort. Cant wise, personally. I like to cant my front foot outward to the point that I'm pretty far off the board with my body on my rear edge before the edge grabs, I run high angles (68-74)ish. ymmv Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inkaholic Posted November 19, 2009 Report Share Posted November 19, 2009 RkyMtn, Canting is another personal preference thing. Some like it, some don't. Those who like it don't all do the same canting/heel toe lifting. Here in CO we have a bunch of good riders who are willing to help out along with two incredible shops in All Boards Sports and Bomber. There is a wealth of knowledge to be tapped into here. Point being, get together with some of us on or off snow and you will learn alot about technique, gear, canting/lift and most anything else you would like to know about. Join the LCI on a weekend and you will learn a lot and have a good time. Cocoa Porters in the Rathskeller after riding. Ink Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted November 19, 2009 Report Share Posted November 19, 2009 If anyone tells you you NEED a specific angle, they're likely wrong. Or they may get lucky and get what works for your body, but it's really luck. It's not anything malicious, what they're suggesting is likely exactly what they need for their body and riding style. Everyone is different and likes different things. If I were buying TD3 bindings new right now and didn't know what I wanted, I'd order 0 and 3 with the bindings and an extra 6 degree disk. (If 6s are still out of stock, order an extra 3 for now) That way you can experiment and see what you like. I started at 0F, 3R on a TD1. Then I got some old Catek World Cups and played around. I settled near 3F, 4R of nearly pure toe/heel lift so when I bought TD2s and TD3s I ordered 3s all around. I've since tried 6 in the rear and like it. I'm going to try 6F, 6R this year with a wider stance to see if I like it. I prefer the 'feel' and design simplicity of the TD3s to the Catek, but again that's personal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack M Posted November 19, 2009 Report Share Posted November 19, 2009 here is my opinion: http://www.bomberonline.com/articles/canting.cfm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bordy Posted November 19, 2009 Report Share Posted November 19, 2009 I'm currently running 3 degree front and rear, which seems to work fine, but have not tried my current board without cants, so I have no comparitive reference. What is your setup?Thanks, Eric this is the real answer you personally do not know until you try different cants. Everyone here can give you great summerys of what works for them. Ink Nailed it the internet is not snowboarding, Get together with people and ask questions on the Hill. Just for kicks I am going to say I run super top secret cants that you should be running also. This advise is as worthy as any other you will get online...Understand?? This is another great search topic, you will get a ton of info over the years.....and its all worthless unless you try stuff yourself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BadBrad Posted November 19, 2009 Report Share Posted November 19, 2009 On my Prior 4WD I tried just a little rear heel lift and some front toe lift, and it felt comfortable, but my heelside turns were wavy, like the board was being twisted. I then added some more lift and inward canting on the rear foot and the heelside turns became smooth again. On my narrower boards with a steeper stance, just front toe lift and rear heel lift works okay, but I feel more comfortable with just a little bit of inward canting, especially when I widened my stance width. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arnaud Posted November 19, 2009 Report Share Posted November 19, 2009 i believe Swoard recommends no canting because their boards are wider and allow for lower angles on the binding and also because of their style of riding Not only. It's also due to the EC technique associated to the customized flex. The board bending gives natural canting See the picture Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ursle Posted November 20, 2009 Report Share Posted November 20, 2009 It's also due to the EC technique associated to the customized flex. The board bending gives natural canting Better than a can of Whoopass Every time I've got the board bent and I touch my body or even hands to the ground I unweight the board and loose the edge, how is it you can lay your body on the ground and bend the board ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack M Posted November 20, 2009 Report Share Posted November 20, 2009 Arnaud. Do you honestly believe that non-Swoard or non-EC boards do not bend while carving? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Posted November 20, 2009 Report Share Posted November 20, 2009 Oh, it's getting good now But seriously Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John H Posted November 20, 2009 Report Share Posted November 20, 2009 Either that or the new Swords have taken rocker to a new level. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Softcarver Posted November 20, 2009 Report Share Posted November 20, 2009 It's pretty obvious that most of us agree that cant/lift is a personal preference. I just started with adjustable bindings two seasons ago; the Ride CAD's. I know they are not to the caliber that most on here ride with but they are fully adjustable. I just purchased a set of FR2 pro's and look forward to trying those out. I have messed around with adjustments for two full seasons and still do some tweaking here and there. Ride has even integrated a wedge footbed into their other bindings this year giving proof that even the mainstream snowboard companies realize that flat bindings offer less in the form of comfort. As far as performance benefits, I do not think they are that remarkable although there is some (ie. wider stances, increased lift helping to engage that edge quicker etc.). To me adjustment is more about comfort and finding a natural stance so that you can stay less fatigued as the day progresses. Like many others have said, someone can give you a basic starting point, but only by a lot of experimentation can you find what works best for you. Good luck and I hope you figure it out fasster than me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bordy Posted November 20, 2009 Report Share Posted November 20, 2009 Arnaud. Do you honestly believe that non-Swoard or non-EC boards do not bend while carving? +1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KingCrimson Posted November 20, 2009 Report Share Posted November 20, 2009 Ignoring the rather planky race deck, the leg position seems unrealistic. I'd like to think the picture in my signature is a decent heelside..My bindings and board do not look like either example..These are flat mounted burtons but my shin angles are way different from those reflected in the diagram. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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