RkyMtn

Sold to Greenleaf.

Hey fellow carvers! I have a Prior WCRM in 177 length that I have never used (I bought this after testing one in Colorado at a demo day, but never got around to actually using it.) I did mount some Bomber TD2's and it has some storage marks on it (not sure what caused that). No dings on the topsheet, edges or base. I would think that an appropriate cleaner would remove the black marks and then will look close to new. Offering it for $280 shipped CONUS. I can also add in a set of front toe bail (red ano) Bomber TD2 bindings to sweeten the deal for an extra $100. First one to post "I'll take it" and follow up with payment gets priority. Message me for more info and to purchase.

Cashz123... Did you find what you needed? I am in the process of moving and am in the mood (wife inspired, ha ha!) to unload most of my quiver, since we are no longer living in Colorado (now in SoCal... so longboard skating instead of carving up the slopes). 1. I have an New, Never used Prior WCRM (its a 17x length - need to confirm) and this was from the original run with the metal cap. (like this one: - I demo'd this once and bought one, but never got around to using it, as I had 4 other boards I liked to ride and I mostly went boarding when it dumped, so I rode a soft boot all mountain board to hit the trees and drop-offs. Only rode alpine when we planned to meet people and I rode my shorter, more agile SG or Burton Alp 64. 2. I also have a Hot Shine in a 16? length that I found at a local shop that tried to do the Alpine thing but didn't work out for them. It is also new and unused. 3. I have 3 sets of Bomber TD2 plate bindings, so I think can let go of one for you. I'd be willing to do a package deal of the three items above for $550. If interested, I'll confirm lengths and snap photos. Cheers, RkyMtn

Pic's of the Burton Boards Topsheet, bottom base and worst scratch on Alp, which should disappear with a base grind (neither boards have been base ground yet) Eric

Tenorman: If Steve is measuring a 30, then shouldn't he be seeking a 29 boot? If so, I have a brand new pair of Deeluxe T225's (Pic below) that were just too flexible for me, but should provide some flex for Steve to get aclimated. I have had them molded once, but they will take 3 more heatings, so we could get Steve in some really hot equipment. I saw the long-boarding video of his, and I am still speechless. I'll do $150 on the Deeluxe boots + shipping I will post photo soon if this sounds worth-while. Otherwise, I'll get the Burtons photo'd asap. Cheers, Eric

Yes, but I will need to go to the shop in boulder (60 miles round trip) to get a picture, as I have them with my LBS (Local Board Shop,... or Lots of Budget Spent) so that he could sell them to someone like Steve. I will post a pic as soon as I get the opportunity. I can get it sooner if you send me an email address to send them from my phone as soon as I take the pic. As for your "sponsorship" of Steve, every little bit helps! Nice to make your acquaintance, Doug, as I enjoy "sponsoring" good people to help get them out boarding and cycling (the pedal kind- mostly road) when I can. Please send me Steve's email address that I can send him pics and communicate, as trying to manage this PM'ing via my phone is a long, slow process. Thanks, Eric PS I PM'd Steve for his email address.

This is what I am looking for, Phil, thanks! Thank you all for your input. Down to the basement to torque my wrists to get my boards setup. Cheers and hopes for a great season! Eric

I have 2 boards that might work. 1. Burton E-Deck 156 2. Burton Alp 157 I got them for the wife, as she was interested and wanted to rip around after seeing what i was doing. She did it a few times, but lost interest. Been in the basement since. Boards are in excellent condition. E-Deck has one scratch on the P-Tex, but is very light and will disappear after the first pass on a base grinder. Alp has a 4mm wide scratch down the center, but little depth, and a base grind should make it disappear, as well. There are a few small patches on the Alp where the base met a rock and got a p-tex filled. Edges on both boards show board has been used and a few spots of roughness, but an edge tune will bring it back to new perfect condition. Currently, you could take the boards out and ride them fine without any problems. Just need a little maintenance to bring it to perfect shape on edges and base. I'll sell you both boards for $100, you pay shipping. If interested email me and I will get some pictures to you. Eric

Hi Doug! That is very nice of you to sponsor Steve! Let me know what you both want to do and we'll get it together. I live in Denver. What about you and Steve? Cheers, Eric

Canal Digger 1's? Very nice work! Eric

Hi Steve, Welcome aboard the money pit train! Hope you have some room for all the boards you are going to collect. I might have the whole enchilada for you. I'll email you and we can chat more. I live in Denver, and if you are in the area, it will be very nice to help you. Cheers, Eric

FYI, I emailed Chris Clark at Prior and he confirmed my thinking that the titanal top sheet is a structural component of the board. He stated that a crack across the board is a structural failure and it should not be ridden. "The titanal topsheet is a structural component of the board. If it gets chipped along the edges it's not a huge deal. If you start to develop a full hair-line crack across the width of the board it is a sign of structural failure (caused by a big impact/crash)." -Chris Clark Sorry to disappoint you, but better than a law suit. :( Eric

I'm currently running 3 degree front and rear, which seems to work fine, but have not tried my current board without cants, so I have no comparitive reference. What is your setup? Thanks, Eric

I've been boarding for 17 years, starting on a Burton 161 M6. No canting. Then a Burton Alp, no canting. I hear Sword also recommends no canting. Most people I talk to and see carving are using cants. I know that the canting allows you to open up your stance more, but I have heard that it hinders ability to put power to the edge. I would LOVE to hear comments from everyone on their experience and knowledge on this matter. Cheers and thanks! Eric

Thanks for the info! I feel much better about the Prior WRC metal boards, now! Just ride it until it breaks, then call. Once the crack issue was shown on the board, it is a deal breaker. I had once of the first K2 Fat Bob's back in 1993. I developed a crack in the top sheet and it spread quickly and then the board failed, all within a day of riding (and I am a carver at heart, only skidding to bleed off speed or avoid a pedestrian (skier)). I found a retailer with a 177 NOS that I am going to grab, and if the board fails, i'll just pay for the upgrade to a current model. What kind of usage life are you seeing out of carving boards these days? I typically ride 1-3 hours per day on a carving board. Then switch to a soft boots if I have any legs left. I appreciate your expertise!!! Best regards, Eric

Thanks Bordy!! Just what I was looking for!

How has Prior been managing these issues? Are they just managing until the warranty expires, or do they back their product, as the problems I am hearing seem more like product recall material. Thanks, Eric

I'd like to hear how Bobdea knows that DB's Prior is broken and what the damage is. Bobdea, you're up to bat!

Is the WRC your #1 board? What other boards do you like/have/ride?

I heard this was a nice riding board, but don't seem to be able to find reviews on it. Any folks here ride this board and could you give me the good and bad on this board? I am thinking of getting a 177. Thanks, Eric

Hey Noob, Welcome to the party!!! I would have to bet that the majority of carvers have experienced what you are dealing with. I bought an SG Speed 185 and took it out and did ok (this is after 15 years of boarding and 7 carving in hard boots), but with narrow trails and lots of people, it was a death spear. It took big turns, at hot speed, and if someone got in my way, they were going down. If no one is around on the slopes and I have 30 yards of trail width, it is a fun ride. I started on an asymetrical slolom 161 from Burton. That flex allows me to vary the turns dramatically and didn't require much work to get it carving hard. For your weight and height, I think a 160ish slolom flex board is going to allow you to feel more secure and allow you to work on your tequnique to eventually get on a sub-GS like board. I do have a 163 E-Deck gathering dust in great condition. I used it when I was in Aspen years ago as an alternative to the slolom race board I had, so I could practice ripping it up on powder days, which was fantastic. It is probably one of the best all around boards I have ridden. I also have a Burton Alp 163 that has a similar flex pattern, just a hint stiffer, that would accomplish the same effect, but not as handy for dipping into a powder field for some turns. I would also recommend the Nidecker Proto 162 'KeithB' has for sale. It will likely be the in between of the E-Deck and Alp boards. My soft boot boards are Nideckers, and they are the best I have ridden in my 17 years boarding. Once you get some time in with a softer flex board, get your technique dialed in, you will likely find that the turns are too tight and want to open them up more and then you can start mastering the GS like boards. I picked up a Vokel Ren Tiger and it is suh-weeeeeeeet. Just that perfect next step up in stiffness to make lovely sweeping turns. I would absolutely try to find a ski local that has a carving guru and take lessons. That was a big help in getting beyond the plateau I found myself stuck on. Best of luck and keep at it! Eric Denver, CO