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Opinion on Donek stiffness


Pow

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I'm looking at ordering a Donek race and I like the specs on one of their pro-signature models, but I'm pretty sure the pro was a lady (which is alright by me because I'm not nearly as good or strong as a pro lady anyway). The only thing that I'm concerned about is that it may be a little soft. I've never ridden a Donek, so if you have, could you please tell me if 6.6 on their stiffness scale (on a 175 board) is too soft for a 160 pound guy?

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Hey!

I bought a Donek Incline 155 the last year I rode-I still have it, BTW

I'm 135 libs and I'm 5'6" with shoes and the stiffness index of 3.4 was stiff as hell for me-probably too stiff with my reconstructed ankle....

Hope that helps as a data point

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I find the Donek stiffness index difficult to correlate to real life experience.

(ancient) FC 163, 6.4, too stiff

FC 175, 8.0 = just right

GS 180, 8.9 = too stiff

SG 210, 13.3 = just right

There's no curve that can be graphed by an Algebra 2 student that fits those points :eek:

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Pretty much all Donek's I've seen that were designed for a specific rider ended up too stiff for that person. What board are we talking about exactly, I may know the person who it was designed for and if they liked it or not. You may end up with a good board if it was designed for a lady.

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My Bomber FC 185 is a 9.4 on Donek's stiffness scale. I'm an average male (5'11" 170lb and enjoy long walks on the beach) and I find the stiffness to be fine - not too stiff, not too soft. The board will turn on a dime too. I do not, however, have other Donek data point - mine is the only one I have ridden.

For you, at 160, the 6 might be soft, esp. if you ride hard. Also, from what I have heard, get the Olympic upgraded construction - it apparently really improves dampness. (Note: that is the improvement my FC could use - it can get chattery, losing continuous edge hold, when I open it up, esp. when the terrain is not perfect corduroy.)

And Bobdea is right - call Sean; he'll set you up.

Good luck

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We do have a metal construction ready for production. As for stiffness variations, we are now offering all of our alpine shapes in the the stiffness index of your choice. It is limited to 0.5 increments. If you have questions on stiffness, I am more than happy to help. I can typically provide data on the athlete and their feedback.

We have and still do work with world cup racers who repeatedly request the same stiffness. If the boards are too stiff for an athlete, the coach and athlete are both unaware of it.

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its the 175 Behan GS, stats are as follows:

length: 175

effective edge: 159

sidecut: 13.24

nose width: 22.27

waist width: 17.50

tail width: 22.27

stiffness: 6.6

I started with a length range of 174 to 176, and then i went with the largest sidecut, and I like the thinner boards for quicker edge to edge and less swing weight. Metal doneks? sounds great, but im just barely going to be able to afford a standard. Id love to go with the olympic core, but i cant shell out the $$. And im not positive it was a lady, but when i searched the name i found a tiny bit of information about a competitor with that last name.

Great news about the stiffness variations! I might go with one increment higher, but it seems like the 6.5ish might be alright after all.

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That board was made for Laura Behan. As I recal she was around 120 to 130lbs at the time and racing world cup. I'd say you'll probably do fine on the existing stiffness, but the snow you ride, your application, and the size of the mountain may affect things a bit.

As for the metal construction, it will come in just under $1000 and incorporates a sugar maple core, carbon fiber, and a printed pbt topsheet. The metal(top and bottom) is under the pbt(or base) and carbon and cut slightly smaller than the perimeter of the board to eliminate edge impact damage to the metal. The insert holes in the metal are also predrilled larger than the insert barrels to prevent stress risers resulting from core deformation at the inserts. This is a common cause of delam/failure when using metal bindings.

On the olympic construction side, the price has actually come down. We've made some equipment upgrades that make the production of that core much easier. As a result the olympic construction is now an additional $100.

Base prices are going up a bit. I'm sure I don't need to explain why. I will honor last seasons prices through August.

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sorry bob, i just dont like wider boards. I guess i'll be doomed to ride virus, pogo, and madd for the rest of my years. It might even be holding back alpine snowboarding as we know it:rolleyes:

Ace, i didnt know you rode symmetrical boards

as for donek, im riding on the east, doing a lot of icy night riding on medium and sometimes narrow runs. Ive got a pogo overdose 162 that ive been riding for a couple years. What I like most about the board I have is the energy in and out of the turns and how fast I can change edges, but i'm looking to make bigger turns at higher speeds. Im also thinking the slightly softer board might be easier to crank tight turns when i need them. This seemed like a good board to pick without going so big that I run out of room on the mountain. Hmm, depending on by how much the price increases, I may be able to go with an olympic core in the new board. Just one question: is the solid black topsheet opaque enough to use on a board with an olympic core?

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Pow, I have a few symmetrical boards in the quiver.:cool:

Just got a Virus Terminator Carbon Edition from Thor that I can't wait to ride...

I am over here on the narrow icy east coast too(CT). I have only used the Donek up at Stratton, and it performed super-well on a crummy day. The conditions ranged from sloppy slush to extremely hardpack, and the board never flinched.

I know you are looking for energy in and out of the turn, so maybe Virus, Madd, and Pogo ain't so bad, they are some of the snappier boards around.

Doesn't Donek have a program where you can demo the board too? Demo one and see where you are before you go out and order one. Try looking for a used one. I got a good deal in the classifieds here. Anyway you cut it, I think a 175 with a 6.5-8 flex rating and a sidecut between 12 and 14 will make you very happy.

Where on the east coast are you? We are gonna have to ride next season...

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sorry bob, i just dont like wider boards. I guess i'll be doomed to ride virus, pogo, and madd for the rest of my years. It might even be holding back alpine snowboarding as we know it:rolleyes:

well, madd is even making the 170 in a 21 cm width these days. more modern board feel narrower for some reason, in particular metal. I'm betting it has to do with torsional stiffness.

Sean, good good call on recessing the metal, as I've had a few of the metal boards I was thinking pretty much the same thing with the failure issues.

Any new shapes? mind posting pics?

Very interested as everybody's implementation is a little different

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that's friggin narrow

there's a reason why most of us are riding wider boards these days!

sorry bob, i just dont like wider boards. I guess i'll be doomed to ride virus, pogo, and madd for the rest of my years. It might even be holding back alpine snowboarding as we know it:rolleyes:

well, madd is even making the 170 in a 21 cm width these days. more modern board feel narrower for some reason, in particular metal. I'm betting it has to do with torsional stiffness.

Can someone explain the reason for the trend toward wider boards? I understand the "metal feels narrower" but after my not-so pleasant experience with the EX last year, I just don't see the appeal of 21-22-23 waist boards.

The coiler I have on order (my first metal) is going to be 19 waist - and that's as wide as I want to go.

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the EX is mega wide, was that like 23 or something?

the wide boards are a more stable platform and are easier to ride for most people, in particular through the crud. the thing is that it does not work if you still ride high angles. with wider boards you find yourself using much different canting, boot adjustment and so on.

there still is too wide, for me it's past 21.5, at that point my angles are getting too low I have a hard time riding angles much below 48 or so, that might change if I go with a softer boot from what a few people have told me but not sure I buy it. a big part of it is gonna be boot size but unless you're under a 23 mondo I'd think a minimum of 18 cm would be fine.

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as for donek, im riding on the east, doing a lot of icy night riding on medium and sometimes narrow runs. Ive got a pogo overdose 162 that ive been riding for a couple years. What I like most about the board I have is the energy in and out of the turns and how fast I can change edges, but i'm looking to make bigger turns at higher speeds. Im also thinking the slightly softer board might be easier to crank tight turns when i need them. This seemed like a good board to pick without going so big that I run out of room on the mountain. Hmm, depending on by how much the price increases, I may be able to go with an olympic core in the new board. Just one question: is the solid black topsheet opaque enough to use on a board with an olympic core?

You don't need me to size the board for you've applied the same reasoning I would. The behan is right for your situation. FC/AX/Race shapes will run $680 next year.

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Any new shapes? mind posting pics?

Very interested as everybody's implementation is a little different

We're always adding shapes. We just update the list once or twice a year. I don't have any photos. The first person to receive one was Kevin McDougal, so maybe he can post a photo. My studio for photographing boards last year was non existent. I'm working on a new one right now.

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Metal Doneks are arriving? How exciting!

Sean - can you tell us a bit more, in terms of how you would describe the difference in ride between two Doneks that are exactly the same, except for construction (one metal and one Olympic). I really like the FCII 175 I bought two years ago, but I often wish I had made the order for an FCI instead (small feet, and I like high-ish angles). I know that metal has a reputation for making boards super damp and quiet, but with the tradeoff of lost livliness. I like the liveliness of my FC II, but I'm wondering with a metal FC I would feel like in comparison and if it would still be as lively.

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in regards for wide metal:

I think the reason these boards appeal to most other alpine riders and not me is because im looking for a very different ride feel than the typical alpine rider (older, kinda to very heavy). A big, smooth alpine board would be great for these guys. Im young and light, and i dont want a board to just set on the edge and ride. I want to explode out of a turn, high five some dude in an airplane, and come back down and whip out a full 360 switch carve bertleman style. When I'm older and or heavier and looking for a more relaxing ride, ill want a wider, smoother performing board.

Sean: I remember, it might have been last summer, you were asking around about bamboo as a construction material for your alpine boards. Anything ever materialize out of that? sounds like itd be interesting if its not too wobbly for higher speeds. Ohh, and is solid black ok for the topsheet on an olympic core because im pretty sure ill be able to afford that now.:D

and finally garecht:

no, I was seriously considering a blitz for this summer but i defnately cant afford it plus shipping from germany and everything. and now I feel good about buying american products:biggthump

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in regards for wide metal:

I think the reason these boards appeal to most other alpine riders and not me is because im looking for a very different ride feel than the typical alpine rider (older, kinda to very heavy). A big, smooth alpine board would be great for these guys. Im young and light, and i dont want a board to just set on the edge and ride. I want to explode out of a turn, high five some dude in an airplane, and come back down and whip out a full 360 switch carve bertleman style.

sounds like you need a kessler SL!

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