Jump to content

dhamann

Supporting Member
  • Posts

    483
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    7

Everything posted by dhamann

  1. the Powerride Wing in the store is the W Wing (two wing) model. Powerride Wing (one wing) is not available yet, but maybe soon.
  2. hi @slabber. will PM to discuss your needs.
  3. will be shipping out next week. along with any orders through the weekend. should be tracking too. thank you all for the orders!
  4. This photo of small medium large stacked might provide a better understanding regarding sizing. Being right in the middle of recommended sizing can be tough, but either one will improve flex. Sizing isn’t so fixed. Rider preferences must be considered. Given your specific requirements and intended riding style will help answer this. Generally speaking, are you more of a static rider or a dynamic rider? I didn’t get any small hard flex with this batch but maybe with the next order. I might recommend the medium solely based on foot size. Considering the small given your extra large volume lower leg is a thought too. Just understand they’re smaller so some compromise on the support you’re after may be affected. Still improved flex but won’t take up as much volume in the boot since your leg is naturally doing that. The small will allow for greater mobility and dynamic style riding. Support for more powder riding and soft groomers. Medium for even more support, but will take up more volume in a 25 mondo boot. Hope that makes sense. I weigh about 200lbs. Skinny shins.
  5. hi @Odd Job. I'd recommend the medium flex to start with for carve focused riding and general aggressive free ride. this provides the support of a stiff flexing boot for however you want to ride. it will increase stiffness/support/power even more in a brand new 10/10 flex boot to however you want to categorize it. there's no such thing as "breaking them in" either as with a new pair of boots. let's call it sustainable support. some folks with alpine gear might just want to go to hardboots instead of the hard flex, but the option is now here if you just want to switch out a tongue insert for more support instead of changing gear over, etc. It's still not hardboot though so i wouldn't expect that kind of performance, but close. if the board is marketed as stiff, it better be stiff. as always, pairing board/boot/binding with similar stiffness is still a good general rule of thumb to go by. i'll also note that two pairs of POWERRIDE ship for the same as one.
  6. POWERRIDE, BASIC, MEDIUM FLEX, L Mondo 30 (us12), K2 Thraxis with about 80 days ridden. Pretty basic concept here. Plastic tongue inserts to add stiffness to your boot if you wish to compliment your riding style, body allowances and preferences. If the nitty gritty is what you’re looking for, read on. The Thraxis boot has three boa adjustments with one of them attached to a small interior urethane harness called “boa conda liner lacing”. The flex on this harness is similar to the flex of a basic soft flex POWERRIDE. A small size POWERRIDE is still quite larger than what is in this boot. I say this for reference. This boot is considered a 10/10 flex boot, new. The liner I used in the boot was an intuition SBC liner and an intermediate booster strap was used at the cuff. The medium flex basic POWERRIDE definitely added stiffness to the feel of the boot. Feels like a new pair of stiff flexing boots although I was testing with some pretty broken in boots. Added stiffness was obvious, but there was still some flexibility and maneuverability fore/aft and laterally. It wasn’t restricting, but supportive. It may be a little too stiff for park style riding, tweaking grabs etc., but a great feeling for freeriding and/or free carve IMO. There’s no specific number rating to them with regards to flex. The descriptions of the products specify the differences in each model. Test and draw your own conclusions. Sizing isn’t so hard and fast. The molds are almost the same; just a little longer at toe/shin. The medium mold is used on the W Wing models (Wing has one wing, W Wing has two wing), one size. If the POWERRIDE slides around at all (with a properly installed insert) some riders size down to help prevent this being an issue. Duct tape or sticky rubber can help keep the insert in place better. If you want to use them in a different way, then go for it. However, this is what is recommended… Installing: Put boot on appropriate foot Cinch and/or tie up your liner to your liking Insert POWERRIDE between liner and tongue shell Cinch and/or tie up your shell to your liking (holding front of cuff while synching helps with a snugger fit) Adjust accordingly Ride I also rode these inserts in spring conditions in brand new Deeluxe Edge Pro boots (stock liner), again with a 10/10 flex, and just laughed on my first few laps with them. They’re not like a hardboot, but dam was it close, while still having more freedom laterally than if I were to be riding a UPZ boot in walk mode. I will also add that I rode these after having ankle surgery for “snowboarders ankle” (lateral talar process fracture), two months prior. Yes I was dedicated to PT, diet, etc. in order to get back out, but these felt like just the added security I was looking for to still have the option to ride softies. I don’t claim it to be a medical device, but it sure helped me out. It felt as though it helped with stabilizing the ankle joint; take note aging riders or those with skateboarding and dancers ankles. The W Wing models provide even more lateral support for those who like to run higher binding angles. Mix and match flex and/or models for front and rear boot. cuff loosened to show POWERRIDE. https://forums.alpinesnowboarder.com/store/category/5-powerride/ SHOPPERS PLEASE NOTE: must create at least a free profile to view products in store.
  7. board zone dedicated in basement. boot and apparel zone too. boards and boot bag prepped days prior and/or confirmed night before. lunch, body/mind fuel prepped night before to pack cooler on way out the door. fuel check and topped off day prior. goggle lenses decided upon arrival and what the sky looks like. softies or alpine decided upon arrival based on conditions, car traffic and mood. stretch and limber up. suit up. ride. the spoiled condo routine is a deviated version of above. never leave without having coffee first.
  8. to my knowledge, stack height on gecko cross or alpine version and virus isolators are 10mm. i've ridden f2 titaniums with them and they work well. stack on gecko stealths are 5mm, stock; unless you swap the bumpers.
  9. F2 race titaniums will provide some lateral movement which is very much inviting for a softbooter transitioning to alpine. step ins or TD3 standards may dissuade from an enjoyable experience for such riding. good choice, but they'll still be worlds apart from any stiffened up Frankenstein softboot setup. support and forces while carving will be transferred to more of the leg/hip and less on the ankle/toes/feet/back. style and technique is a whole other topic. gear first. the new pair of F2's should come with one thicker stack block, so ordering one other set of cants/blocks/wedges is super advise from above. BTS for the boots (soft/soft or soft/medium springs). solid setup. turner mild would be almost a forever in the quiver board. no brainer to me, but talk with Sean about what's right for you. head on a swivel. good luck and enjoy the G's.
  10. @SunSurfer ask for a tail graphic photo if you really want. the nose is a very similar scoop and profile to an oxygen supercross 164 that i brought out of retirement to get started into hardbooting a number of years ago and used intermittently as a rock board, slush board or whatever. it's about 30yrs old (93-94?) so i didn't expect much from it. was great while it lasted, but inserts are now unsafe to ride so it's a wall hanger. given the forces put onto the board while carving, i'd stay clear of adding a 12th board to your quiver. a 176 it's not really a beginner length. maybe a second or third powder board for about half the "buy now", pickup only, ride with caution and keep an eye on it. btw, waxing a white base is the worst.
  11. Hi @Chris B. sorry to hear about your issue and i think there are many of us that feel your frustration with having binding issues. hope you have back up set(s). i have heard customer service, parts, etc. can be hit or miss with Flux in the US, nevermind Poland if that's where you're located. shipping may be more than the part, but this is the world we live in. specific binding parts can be tricky with almost any manufacturer, while i'm sure there are some exceptions. took almost a month for me and many communications to get a highback replaced from another manufacturer a couple years ago in the middle of the season. this type of damage can happen to carbon, especially in very cold temps and most definitely with much fatigue over the years. is the 2020 highback/baseplate the same design/mold/etc. as the current version? Might just have to wait until they're back in stock if the part is available for purchase on it's own. i just got a pair of xv at the end of last season to try out and will hope for the best that nothing happens to them. sorry i have no direct contact, lead, etc. to share. rivet probably not ideal with carbon, get another binding or try to keep holding onto your patience and keep contacting (Flux, shops, etc.). fingers crossed. best of luck.
  12. the equipment is specially suited to this style of riding, but also more versatile than the general alternative. specially suited hardboot equipment takes great efforts as well. we're all pretty geakish with this stuff. just boils down to rider preferences and to perform the way the body and mind allows. great athleticism too. "coming to America" - JT
  13. hey Cbr. there's two or three other turn specialists that i know of that infrequently visit the crotch. some on this forum, some not. expect the worst and work with it as best you can. small hill. I did take notice that grooming has improved the past couple of seasons. better than sunapee IMO. we'll just have to wait and see how it pans out this year. see you out there. -Dave
  14. chapter 1: yep chapter 2: what is wide? chapter 3: directional vs. twin (shape, construction, scr, etc.) chapter 4: riding conditions/environment and intent of use chapter 5: rider skills and preferences chapter 6: exclusive or mainstream chapter 7: marketing and sales chapter 8: manufacturer's and builders chapter 9: alterations (plates and other equipment) not necessarily in that order, but these are some of the considerations when comparing what is suggested and there can be a bit of a grey area when it comes to both mainstream and custom. each builder/manufacturer knows what's best for you and you'd probably get different boards from each one if you told them all the same thing. none are wrong when compared to mainstream boards though. worth every penny. however, mainstream boards work just fine and there are some that may be better than others. most of these factors depend on the rider.
  15. https://www.bomberonline.com/TD3-Upper-Kit_p_34.html bought em. See link and use drop down
  16. I got a pair of xv to see how they comp to Odrive and apollo. High hopes and keeping an eye on cv highback material (“new materials that keep their properties in cold temps.”). Reviews of 2024 cv welcomed.
  17. TD3 std/SG/F2 ti CNC would be the most locked in and responsive bindings. I've ridden the f2 ti and TD3 std. I was amazed at the stiffness and responsiveness of the TD3 std and would find this tough to beat. i hear the SG is comparable and would assume the F2 CNC would follow suit, and seeing what others are saying. we all know that such specific equipment has no budget, so keep eyes peeled for used, like the SG mentioned. F2 ti would compare to TD3 sw with regards to some lateral forgiveness. good luck with coming to terms with needs and wants.
  18. @Jack M sorry to hear, but those kinco boxing mitts are like five years old. no signs of wear. see you in December.
  19. kind of like explaining alpine snowboarding to an eight year old on a chairlift, how to get into it, where to buy, what to buy, how size boots, how to learn, etc. looks fun though. it's a committed and compromised lifestyle for many. the trend is growing, because it's facts. like science.
  20. somethings got to give. understanding needs and wants can be difficult. we need to listen to our body, but we want to have it all. compromise has to occur somewhere to meet our objective. what is that? hardboots on a 26.6 waist 163 at 225lbs and a mondo 31 with +21/+6 angles? i'm not sure that would solve anything other than confirming an equally poor experience as to renting equipment. hardboot binding angles typically start at +40 to +45 both front and rear. softboot angles typically max out around 36+ for most. deviations from this have been tried and it can work for some, but not likely. how's the body feel about it, regardless of technique? generally, that's first for me. i'm a size 12 street shoe 200+lbs and tried hardboots on a 26.5 waist bx board once. ONCE. this is not what the equipment was designed for and it was apparent upon riding it. this compromise didn't meet my objective where I was certain it would. wrong. understanding this is a good start. some great advise above and i think Neil has pretty much put a solution on a platter here, but there's some compromise. nobody needs, but it would be recommended that a proper boot/board/binding combo is sought. bending over for boots/bindings is a fact of snowboarding. skiing is the other option. the forces put on the body while snowboarding are likely equal to or greater than the fact of bending over to reach the boot/binding. it's the elephant in the room. while sliding downhill, the greatest support and response will come from hardboots. a stiff set up with softboots can also be achieved. a surfy style and intentions while riding will be easier with a softboot set up. i think this is obvious. a more restrictive, but responsive ride will be achieved with hardboots. albeit, a surfy style can also be achieved with hardboots, but comes with practice, challenges and again, compromise. a complete hardboot setup suited to your needs or a stiff step-on system to at least cut the bending over to address boot/binding in half. understanding the boots will wear out a lot faster than hardboots. both are going to cost money and the amount depends on where/how the compromises will be for each individual. welcome to the rabbit hole and gladly beat like a dead horse around here. good luck.
×
×
  • Create New...