JRAZZ

Hope you weren’t one of the people I cut off You guys missed an awesome day but for a good reason. Pictures please!

Hmmmmm....

Made in the summer of 2015. I would say that this board has less than 20 days total on it. Traditional camber. If you lay it flat it has about 5mm at the center. It's a stock board and I would gauge the stiffness at 7-8/10.

Bindings are sold. In need of a good home: Bomber TD2 step-in with steel reciever, red elastomers and 0/6 cants. $190 + shipping.

I'm planning on Sunday too. Probably better carving and definitely less people! I'm gonna softboot though ?

I wonder if that's because it's "solid". I bet if I make a version that's open on the bottom the price would drop. Still, that's as expensive as I thought it would be ?

If that's the cost then go SLS in Nylon. That's a no-brainer! I'm going to get a quote for a pair of the SB risers just to see what they come up with.

Here's my take on common 3D printable plastics for our needs: PLA - DO NOT USE!!! Brittle and not very durable. Good for trinkets but not for an engineered solution. ABS - Probably one of the better materials to use. There is an incredible spectrum of grades of ABS so tread carefully but generally speaking it has good mechanical properties and good layer adhesion. ABS is relatively flexible down to at least -25 C and does not tend to shatter. It is cheap and compared to the other materials on this list, pretty easy to work with. ABS, however, degrades in UV light so for a mechanical part try and use black color as that includes charcoal which tends to block UV and prevent part degradation. PET/PETG - PETG is marginally stiffer and stronger than ABS but the 3D printed variety tends to come out more brittle (this might have to do with internal stresses). In reality it should be as good as ABS for our uses and you should pick the material that you are more comfortable printing with. POM - significantly stiffer than ABS or PETG. Good abrasion resistance but, as you wrote, poor self adhesion. POM does tend to be very tough and very creep resistant. In the plastics world it is used for springs or gears a lot for those reasons. It is also more expensive than ABS or PETG. PC or PC/ABS - Stiff, strong, very good for dimensional stability. Requires higher temperatures to print but will also withstand higher temperatures. I use this plastic for bike parts. I like using PC when I can but it is very expensive and hard to use. Nylon - This is the best material for most of our applications. Nylon is tough and relatively soft which can make for excellent shock absorption. Nylon also has enormous strength and layer adhesion (peeling it off the bed can be a pain). However, Nylon is tough to work with. It is very hygroscopic (absorbs water) and you have to keep the filament in a dry box before printing. After printing the parts will absorb water for a couple of weeks and will become noticeably softer. They might also swell up a bit so keep that in mind before using. p.s. I am assuming you know how to print each of these materials. Most of them need to be printed on a heated bed in an enclosure. Some are more difficult than others. My list assumes the parts are printed correctly. Also, don't forget that for each material there are a ton of factors that can substantially affect their properties. Colorants, surfactants, flow modifiers, etc... All can change the properties of the plastic fundamentally. White color, for example is notorious for making plastic weaker. For binding parts spend the extra $$$ to get good quality material.

Some of us get there as early as 6:30 (not necessary - I have a 2hr drive) You can still get there around 8 and find parking on the main lot.

ABS and PETG perform pretty similarly in cold temperatures. The real difference is in UV resistance and general brittleness of the plastic. I'm not a huge fan of PETG because it does tend to be brittle from the get-go. It is, however, very UV resistant. I usually prefer to print in either ABS or PC/ABS as they have very good mechanical properties. In order to increase UV resistance I usually go with black because the colorant has charcoal in it and that absorbs UV pretty well. But truthfully, the best material for this application is Nylon. If you can live with the problems of printing it it will yield the best parts. It is more flexible so it will add some shock absorption and it withstands cold temperature really well. Back when I designed plastic crates for supermarkets I would always choose a Nylon for the deep-freezer application because those would NEVER break. Nylon is a great material but is a pain to deal with on the printer side. If you're interested in performance of plastics in cold temperature applications look at this chart: https://omnexus.specialchem.com/polymer-properties/properties/ductile-brittle-transition-temperature

I don't trust any forecast. Even one day out they have been known to miss on Loveland. Look at this last Sunday. We expected a mondo groomer day and got 4"-6" (poor us, I know). That being said, late April to early May we do get awesome dumps. I'll be keeping my eyes peeled on this one. If this is real I'll be there.

I can’t complain. Going up ptarmigan I saw that it was empty and untracked. Got off the lift and clicked in while moving, not waiting for anybody on this. That was the best run all season. Truly bottomless untracked pow. Sorry to leave so soon. Got some sucky news that just ruined it for me. Couldn’t continue but I didn’t want to ruin the stoke for anybody else so I snuck out. See y’all next week. Maybe we’ll stop with all this snow and get a groomer day

@jim_s made the parts available via thingieverse. The neat part is that you put in the measurement you want and it creates a STL file that you can print! If you do not have a 3D printer you can have them made. Look at the following post: You could also look at your local library. Most libraries today have a 3D printer available. Make sure you print ABS and not PLA (types of plastic) as the former is much more durable outdoors. I apologize in advance but I'm not printing anything for anyone. Got scared off by lawyer talk. But yeah, this is an amazing development and I do not think we've seen the last of 3D printing in snowboarding. Not by a longshot!

Hmmm.... I think that the AI's that target the ads know EXACTLY what they are doing.

I would also ask people to disable ad blockers on this site. I don't mind seeing them ads if it helps and would definitely pay a subscription.

Pretty much any of us will. Like @slopestar said, go to the second floor, the wedge bar, look towards the windows, yell "weird snowboarders". Works every time. As said, before 8am cause we usually trundle down to the cars to get boards, goggles, makeup, etc...

That would be neat.... BTW, they expect reducing travel time from 8 minutes to 3 minutes... I see some very sore legs next year.

There's enough threads on most inserts to accommodate 3 degrees of cant. One set is threaded deeper than the other but both have enough engagement. The trick is getting the riser thick enough to hit the sweet spot. I've found that 23.5mm high risers work well with 40mm screws and that 28.5mm risers work well with 45mm screws. Once you add in heel/toe lift or increase cant you need to use different length screws. Other than the length the angle that the screws sees is not large enough to affect the binding.

At this time of the season it dumps and then very quickly melts/compacts. Don't expect to be riding powder. 7 days out nobody can make any kind of useful prediction but my money is on somewhat firm groom. Doubly good for us because it scares the pow folks away.

Finally got to ride it. The TL;DR, I like it! Honestly this wasn't the best day for this board. ~12" of snowment (rare up here in Loveland, we usually go for blower), all cut up to bumpy crud. I kept Lance's setup (27/18 forward etc...) and just tried to see what would happen. Had some issues with the bindings pushing my boots forward so I spent quite some time faffing around up top just trying to get comfortable. Once I got going I almost immediately fell in love. It definitely loves to spit you out of turns. I'm a bit lighter at 185lbs and I think the 161 is exactly right for my weight. It is both lively and damp as well. It powered through the chop very very well. Damp and controllable. Once I found some firmer snow I could just see peeks as to how much fun this can be! Quite scary because inevitably I would push it too hard and submarine the nose (which happens quite suddenly). That being said the turns I did get in were fun and poppy. For me the sidecut worked great. I liked the tight tail - felt that it allows me to complete turns well and made transitioning toe to heel and heel to toe really fun. I really need to try this board out on a good groomer day. I was curious about it for quite some time (after seeing the thegoodride.com review) but I honestly didn't think it would be this nice! I am also surprised as to how maneuverable it is. You'd think with the width, camber and sidecut it would want to keep going straight, which it does, but once you lean over it really rewards you with tight turns. I even took it through some trees which was surprisingly fun and easy. Sorry for the disjointed review, I really did like the board and I'm trying to put down everything that I felt. It is most definitely not for the conditions we had today but this means I really need to give it another go. Can't wait!

I agree, I was looking at Commencals for a full suspension rig and for around $2300 you get significantly better equipment.

Bring on the pow!

Very jelly. I have to work See ya'll Sunday.

The boots can be stiff but if the connection to the board isn't.... This Sunday I did an experiment and set my softboots at high angles (45/36) never again! I know some can make it work but the connection wasn't there. Going back to 27/9 made a lot more sense. The boots are very stiff and supportive but the bindings simply did not transfer the lateral movement. Could it be the Burton "autocant"? Possibly. Not going to try it again without making sure my connection is a lot more solid. Then again, if I need a solid connection then why not hardboots? I'll agree with what's written above. The difference is in how you power the board. Honestly The HB stance makes more sense to me for going down groomers and the sideways stance makes more sense in places where I need more (and faster) control.