workshop7

Hi Lurch, Are you sure this board is a non-metal construction. Every Flux I have seen has been metal. Also, in SVR’s original post, he states how damp the board is (a trait usually associated with a metal board). Just curious.

For me it's about turn shape and conditions. Like Corey said, I do love a new toy but it's more about the right tool for the job. If I had to narrow it down to as few as possible I would still want 5 boards. MK - Quick and nimble Custom 172 - (Bigger MK) Same characteristics as the MK but on a larger scale Proteus 180 - Stable, high speed cruiser. 1997 FP 157 - Rock board Tanker 177 - Powder, trees and crud

1990-2005 100% hardboot 2006-2012 30% hard 70% soft 2013-2015 60% hard 40% soft 2016-present 90% hard 10% soft

Almost always with friends and family. 6-8 times a year I go for a few hours on a weekday morning. On those days I'm by myself.

We are there almost every Friday night.

Oh, man! I was there last night. The picture was taken last night. Were you on a carving board?

Yup

The side cut geometry has a lot to do with this. Most boards that are specifically designed for a race course have a tight radius in the nose and a longer one at the tail. This is the biggest reason that riders say that a race board does not finish a turn.

I here great things about the Palmer P02.

Your toe side turns are looking good. The heel side: - Bring that right hand forward and out in front of you. - Keep your shoulders more square and headed in the same direction that the board is going. - The biggest change I recommend is to push your knees into the snow more. Don't do it by sinking into the turn with your hips and, in turn, your knees get closer to the snow. Make an effort to push the knees down while keeping the hips where they are. You want to straighten out the line made by your ankles, knees and hips. Right now, your knees are creating a significant bend in this line. By doing this, you will increase the boards angle to the snow and decrease the radius of the turn. This is important as you start to increase your riding speed later in your progression.

I was going to suggest the metal FC or the 170 Proteus if you want to stay with a single radius design. I've been on the FC and I own a 180 Proteus. Both are fantastic boards.

I did that to myself today on back to back runs.

What model FP do you have? What do you like and not like about it?

For me, the angles of my bindings are dictated solely by the size of my boots and the width of my boards.

I agree with this.

I feel the same way about my Proteus. I keep hearing great things about the Kessler. @Jack Michaud has been raving about his 168.

Hard to make a suggestion without having some idea of your current quiver.

Most buyers will want to know the exact SCR.

Thanks for the review Jack. If you look again, there is 4-5cm of decamber at the nose. The base’s first point of contact is definitely behind the beginning of the effective edge. It has become my go to board this year. So, give it back!

This was my first board in 1990. I don’t remember it being stiff though. It was kind of a noodle.

I was at Sunapee today and was surprised at how good the conditions were.

Welcome to hardboot snowboarding! I have been doing this since January 1990. You’re going to have good, bad and worse days for as long as you continue to persue improvement in this sport. It’s kind of like golf, but it doesn’t suck.

I probably would, yes.

If I were to get another Nomad I would get one with the exact same specs as Moose's. the only change I would make is to have Sean build it for my weight. I loved the length, waist width and the turning radius. I just didn't like the stiffness.