mtracz Posted January 24 Report Share Posted January 24 I wish I watched this video when it came out. I played around and dialed in my forward lean adjustment last night. Game changer! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SunSurfer Posted January 25 Report Share Posted January 25 @mtraczlake sure you check out the rest of his Quick Tip videos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShortcutToMoncton Posted January 25 Report Share Posted January 25 On this topic, then……do others typically use more front lean on the rear boot than the front? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dredman Posted January 25 Report Share Posted January 25 I use more forward lean on back boot. Running 6degree lift on front toe and 6 degree lift on back heel. lots of ways to find what is comfortable and works well. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SunSurfer Posted January 25 Report Share Posted January 25 In the stance that you ride your snowboard, what do you want your knees and ankles to be able to do? Try standing in bare feet on a flat floor in your snowboard stance and observe how your legs move as you make snowboarding movements. If there was no ankle movement in a boot then all the movements of your leg for shock absorption, moving your centre of mass up and down for edge weighting and unweighting, and turn initiation would have to come from your knees and hips. If you feel you ride more across the board, certainly 45 degrees or less, then your ankles and knees move differently than if you ride higher angles and aligned more along the board. Aligned along the board, as you move your COM up and down to absorb shocks and to weight/unweight the board while ideally remaining roughly centered over the edge, your front lower leg moves through a much smaller angle than your rear, and will start in the at rest, uncompressed, position relatively close to vertical. Your rear leg starts off angled forward and moves through a considerable range further forward. From that it follows that your starting position should have the front cuff near vertical when mounted in the binding, while the rear should be angled further forward. Use a spring system to adjust how much resistance there is to movement away from that starting position. Alternatively softer/harder shells and tongues can be used to produce the same effect but perhaps with less easy adjustability. I ride at 65F, 60R and don't ride with an across board style. Others here who ride across the board may be able to give insight as to how both their legs move as they ride and turn, and what starting position and range of movement is useful/desirable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philw Posted January 25 Report Share Posted January 25 I'm riding 40/35, so more "across" than most. My rationale for lean is... If my front boot isn't relatively upright, I find it hard to pressure the front edge of the board. I typically have the front boot in the most upright setting I can get. I've found no boots in which I can over-do that. My rear boot I want fully leant-forward. If the lean isn't enough (eg Atomic Backlands with the stock levers, max lean setting), then the back of the board feels a bit odd. It's hard to explain, but I have to put some extra back-leg effort into keeping the board on the snow, something like that. I've some Iceland video of me riding garbage snow with stock levers and my board "stutters" a lot over the snow, which isn't normal. I use the Phantom levers to get the lean I want, which is the maximum they allow, and it's about twice as much as you can get from the stock levers. Any boot ramp or toe/heel lift will likely affect that. I'm riding with 1° front toe lift and 3° rear heel lift on the Backlands. With other boots I've ridden Flat; it all depends. Whatever, I'd say that's pretty much the same physics as the higher angles discussed above. Steeper angles make boards feel different, but I don't think they affect the basic "fighting stance" thing, if that makes sense. Here you go... this is probably a bit of a "hockey stop" type turn as I'm probably doing that "one big turn" thing for the photographer, but you can see the stance in use and the back leg lean at least. I double checked the angles - the above numbers are correct. bear in mind this is a very wide shot. I think I'm breaking hard on the rear foot to chuck up spray and rotating the upper body (and front leg to some extent) to crank left on the rebound. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtracz Posted January 25 Author Report Share Posted January 25 (edited) 13 hours ago, SunSurfer said: @mtraczlake sure you check out the rest of his Quick Tip videos. @SunSurferI have, and they have been a huge help! Thank you for the reminder to dig back into them. BTW - I have a Donek Voyager with Secret construction in their build queue. My last build was in 2005, I can't wait to see what they are up to these days!!! And I really dig the responses to this thread! I'm glad it pulled a string and we are benefitting from a view into everyone's setups! _Mike Edited January 25 by mtracz 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hknz Posted January 28 Report Share Posted January 28 This video and post are game changer! After increase forward lean for a considerable amount, all heelside problem disappeared. Chatting, leg pain etc. Big thanks! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Gilmour Posted January 29 Report Share Posted January 29 Because of our body mechanics if both leans were set the same … you would not be able to exert equal pressure along the heel edge for the same amount of board tilt. The back foot would require real contorting of the body to try to equalize heel edge pressure. More forward lean on the rear can help equalize the edge pressure front to back and this subsequently reduces chatter on your heel edge and prevents washout on the heelside , it also can prevent spin out So even if you’re riding lower stance angle in soft boots- you’ll notice if you angulate towards the heelside that your front soft boot Will engage the high back much earlier than your rear soft boot if your forward lean is equal. When I first started snowboarding I just assumed you wanted more front lean to help with early hillside engagement so your COM wouldn’t end up too far away from the heel edge. But pretty soon I noticed that spin out would occur shortly after crossing the fall line . More rear forward lean helps to fix that. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtracz Posted January 31 Author Report Share Posted January 31 @hknzI know right! @John GilmourThanks for your writeup! I I felt everything you wrote once I made the changes to my boots. _Mike 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slopestar Posted February 1 Report Share Posted February 1 (edited) On 1/24/2023 at 7:35 PM, ShortcutToMoncton said: On this topic, then……do others typically use more front lean on the rear boot than the front? In soft boots on flow Nx2 bindings, I use all the forward lean they offer. Stance angles vary for me from 36/24 down to 24/12. My body likes 12* of splay. But lately my back leg/calf is feeling a bit tight. Bring some variety to Aspen tomorrow through Monday. Looking forward to seeing you sun surfer and JG! Been too long. Edited February 1 by slopestar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty Edges Posted February 4 Report Share Posted February 4 I find that more forward lean in both boots makes my ankles feel more locked in without excessively tightening my boots or binding straps. To counter the forward lean I have toe lift on the forward binding and heel lift on the rear binding at 60 - 55 angles. This also has the side benefit of allowing a wider, more stable, stance. The trick I have found is having both knees centered laterally on the board. This seems to balance any toe side - heel side bias. This has been my starting point for years with little adjustment required. Your mileage may vary... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cthulhufish Posted February 5 Report Share Posted February 5 That video helped me a lot. I'd also like to add that springs matter (if you have them). I've been really struggling with standing the board up on the heel side, and a minute worth of tightening preload nuts did more for my heel side carves than hours of practicing technique. I feel silly for not messing with the springs in my boots sooner. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Gilmour Posted February 6 Report Share Posted February 6 (edited) 45/33 21 inch stance with 31” inseam, moderate Gilmour bias Union Forged Carbons front heel cup all the way extended out and rear heel cup all the way in to give more toe overhang . About an extra 1/4” more bias from binding discs . front high back full upright - rear highback two clicks forward . Both maximally rotated parallel to the edge of the board . rear toe ramp mid hole forward , front toe ramp all the way back . Edited February 6 by John Gilmour 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slabber Posted February 6 Report Share Posted February 6 Today I tried less lean on the front foot and more lean in the rear - worked wonders for me! Very happy with the results - wish I'd tried this before. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barryj Posted February 6 Report Share Posted February 6 10 hours ago, Cthulhufish said: tightening preload nuts did more for my heel side carves What spring system are we talking about? Photos of your current spring system settings front and back could be informative. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deuxdiesel Posted February 6 Report Share Posted February 6 I haven't been on hard boots this year, but have always ridden with a lot of rear lean and as much upright on the front as possible. Occasionally I will add toe lift the the front foot to bring my patellas back near the same plane, depending on stance width. I guess I thought most people did this and the idea of riding with front forward lean seems really odd. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtracz Posted February 6 Author Report Share Posted February 6 15 hours ago, slabber said: Today I tried less lean on the front foot and more lean in the rear - worked wonders for me! Very happy with the results - wish I'd tried this before. I know, right!!! Glad the vid helped you too. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philw Posted February 7 Report Share Posted February 7 On 2/6/2023 at 10:43 AM, Deuxdiesel said: ... I guess I thought most people did this and the idea of riding with front forward lean seems really odd. Me too. Although there are lots of different ways to do this, perhaps there needs to be a sticky or something here advising people of roughly how most people set the gear up, in case someone comes along and doesn't know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slabber Posted February 7 Report Share Posted February 7 On 2/5/2023 at 10:14 PM, slabber said: Today I tried less lean on the front foot and more lean in the rear - worked wonders for me! Very happy with the results - wish I'd tried this before. So, based on the soreness (not terrible, but noticeable), I think the lean adjustment affected how I engaged my lower abs... I've been trying to figure out why they're sore and it's the only thing I can think of and that's just from a short bunch of runs Sun AM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CravingCarving Posted March 22 Report Share Posted March 22 (edited) I read this thread and also did some runs with more advanced riders. They commented on my forward lean. 45/39 angles and 3/5 front and 4/5 rear lean (can't get my Deeluxe to go 5/5). *(I have F2 Intec Tintanium bindings with F2 heel and toe lifts) So I went fully upright. 2 runs = 2 pairs of undies. Went to 2/5, another pair of undies. Went back to 3/5. I'm new and not carving well, but I had absolutely no control with the boot upright and way way too many close calls. Might be one of the factors limiting my riding, but I'm also not looking to hurt myself (again). It was like I'd never ridden a board with it upright, couldn't get it to do anything but try and kill me. Any thoughts are appreciated. Edited March 22 by CravingCarving Added details Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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